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Old 09-24-2009, 05:43 PM   #91
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One of the processes of heated aluminium is that it will expand due some changes on atomic level. Every time you heat it up to a higher temp this proces will go on.
A heat cycle run-in proces will tackle this working while running in and should give a better fitting piston at the end of the run-in proces, otherwise it can take some liters before the piston gets realy loose.
It is not to tell which engine needs this, depening on the alloy it has this effect.
Exactly. I remember some RB .12's back in the day that if you ever overheated them (say 300f or more) the things would get monster tight and you would have to break it in all over again. Of course, it also made a good way of getting some more life out of a worn out motor. Just required a blowtorch instead of a pincher.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:56 PM   #92
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heat cycling fits the parts of an engine through expansion and contraction of said parts . this has to do with all the parts but especially the piston and sleeve .
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:08 PM   #93
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Im going to get my first ever nitro rc vehicle tomorrow and Im nervous.

I ordered 30% OD fuel, but Ive been told that I should have got 20% for break in.

Will 30% during break in be bad?
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:05 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Exactly. I remember some RB .12's back in the day that if you ever overheated them (say 300f or more) the things would get monster tight and you would have to break it in all over again. Of course, it also made a good way of getting some more life out of a worn out motor. Just required a blowtorch instead of a pincher.
It is not recomended, the aluminium will also get weaker in this proces.....
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:08 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by clamber View Post
Im going to get my first ever nitro rc vehicle tomorrow and Im nervous.

I ordered 30% OD fuel, but Ive been told that I should have got 20% for break in.

Will 30% during break in be bad?
break it in with the fuel you plan to run
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:10 AM   #96
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Just remember to shim the motor, if the manual says you need to for the 30%
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:16 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clamber View Post
Im going to get my first ever nitro rc vehicle tomorrow and Im nervous.

I ordered 30% OD fuel, but Ive been told that I should have got 20% for break in.

Will 30% during break in be bad?
this will be fine , remember to preheat and wrap the head allowing you to run richer than normal settings with higher temps and you will be just fine
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:14 PM   #98
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ok, so im about to try this method. but i read some posts say "run it on the box" what are they referring to with that?
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:19 PM   #99
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ok, so im about to try this method. but i read some posts say "run it on the box" what are they referring to with that?
That's a reference to the old school method of idleing it through several tanks while it sits on the starter box or a stand with the wheels off the ground. The new school method claims this will do more harm than good.
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:55 PM   #100
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this will be fine , remember to preheat and wrap the head allowing you to run richer than normal settings with higher temps and ying ou will be just fine
To reiterate. The key to running engines is to preheat , heat cycle , moving piston from pinch zone during cool down periods (and for the life of the engine for good measure)and do not overrev during first gallon or so .
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Old 09-27-2009, 12:22 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by WingWrecker View Post
That's a reference to the old school method of idleing it through several tanks while it sits on the starter box or a stand with the wheels off the ground. The new school method claims this will do more harm than good.
A first tank idle can't do any harm, it will make a small and easy start to fit all the internal components. Thinking that a few tanks idle will run it in is wrong.
Regarding the recomendation I think they want to run it full throttle on a rich setting on the box, this is done a lot before going on the track and finish the running in proces.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:29 PM   #102
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Thanks for the info folks; sure will help just got my Firestorm and don't want to blow things up. I read the manual and watched the DVD that described the box method basically. But the other method mentioned made sense. Thanks to the original poster and the Bump to bring things back to the forefront.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:58 PM   #103
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Run it real rich and buy you a heat gun keeping temps above 212 F before and after starting.Don't over rev, take your time and watch that itchy finger.Let the engine cool with piston at BDC and repeat.When you can spin flywheel with finger at running temp then let it rip!!!
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:38 AM   #104
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Monty
After your first 10-15 tanks of break-in. (heat cycling and running rich on the
ground) How do you break-in the rest of the gallon of fuel? You said you would not race an engine until it had a gallon of fuel through it. I have one
of Mark's engine warmers I pre-heat before I start it so my FMS break-in is
going very slow.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:45 PM   #105
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Monty
After your first 10-15 tanks of break-in. (heat cycling and running rich on the
ground) How do you break-in the rest of the gallon of fuel? You said you would not race an engine until it had a gallon of fuel through it. I have one
of Mark's engine warmers I pre-heat before I start it so my FMS break-in is
going very slow.
Run it on the track and tune it so you have just enough power to clear all the jumps and features you need to but not too lean so it overrevs then start tuning iy for race . About 85% power tune is all you really need to tune for . Keep temps between 210-240 during the rest of the gallon .
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