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"the break in bible"

Old 06-25-2010, 09:29 PM
  #211  
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i though the same thing when i got my first car about the heat cycling for breakin.
I ride 2 stoke bikes and though you would have done a similar breakin procedure.

idling the bike to warm, then varying the PRM to half throttle, no more than half throttle.once you get to 4th gear stop, slow the bike down and start off again in first gear. Do this for 15mins then stopping and letting it cool down.
repeat 3 times, then move to 3/4 throttle and towards then end start using 5th gear.
Its the expanding and contracting that breaks the bikes in not letting them overheat and seeze. THis way the piston wears into its bore. once that is done shes ready to race.

im guessing this method of break in is similar to our nitro cars.
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:51 AM
  #212  
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Default Cyrul Method

anyone still use this method???

copy and pasted from Josh Cyrul Break in Method webpage
Author: Josh Cyrul

Josh Cyrul's Break in Method

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers, and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best. Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as reliability.

Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.

The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.

This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!

Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
CEFX
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:19 AM
  #213  
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I'm using Josh Cyrul method since 2006 when I read this article .
More then 10 engines I broke in by myself and few my friend also using this method (offroad ,onroad ,.12 and .21 from standart 3 ports to 9 ports screamers )
Some of these engines have around 6-7 galons a still works fine

Last edited by cichy000; 06-30-2010 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:29 AM
  #214  
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Been doing the Cyrul method with a twist really. Heat it up to 200F before i start it each time, richen it about 2 turns (so it splutters loads of fuel when at WOT) from factory. Run full throttle on box and cut engine before it leans out on a empty tank. I do about 10-12 tanks (let it cool 10-15mins before restarting it) then get a rich 'race tune' on the box and then let it idle through that tank. Then get racing with it rich for a few tanks.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:25 PM
  #215  
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I do not use wot but I run 1/4 throttle first 2 tanks at 3min intervals, let cool down each time. Second tank 1/2 throttle full tank, third tank 1/2 throttle with varied speed, full tank. from there on about 3/4 throttle with bursts to full for a second or two. I keep doing this till pinch is almost gone when hot. I do wrap the head for the first several tanks to keep temps up and always pre heat the engine before every start. I do use a break in bench though, only because it is easier for me where I live, no place to run in buggy around the house, I live on a very small road on a hill in no whereville, the biggest reason I do not run wot at first is not to let the bearings skate in the races and on the crank as they do and overheats them as well as the connecting rod, but just my opinion.
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:14 AM
  #216  
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Default New conrod and/or bearings

Gentlemen

How should you break-in a new conrod and/or new bearing(s) in an old engine?

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:56 AM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror View Post
Gentlemen

How should you break-in a new conrod and/or new bearing(s) in an old engine?

Thanks in advance
The same as you would a new engine.
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Old 08-05-2010, 12:34 AM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by vaiojoe View Post
The same as you would a new engine.
Hi. Thanks for your reply.

1 gallon of fuel? Heat cycle etc etc.?
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:27 AM
  #219  
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Default nova plus4-C

hi!
I am breaking in my new nova the old school way, I benched it at factory setting for about ten tanks continious running. after that I am slightly leaning the engine top and bottom end every two tanks little by little, running cautiously at the track. now, I think It has done about 4 liters overall and about 70% of its power is unlocked. AM I GOING AT THE RIGHT DIRECTION OR I AM TRYING TO MURDER MY NEW ENGINE??? THANKS
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Old 08-07-2010, 05:49 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by ICE_man View Post
hi!
I am breaking in my new nova the old school way, I benched it at factory setting for about ten tanks continious running. after that I am slightly leaning the engine top and bottom end every two tanks little by little, running cautiously at the track. now, I think It has done about 4 liters overall and about 70% of its power is unlocked. AM I GOING AT THE RIGHT DIRECTION OR I AM TRYING TO MURDER MY NEW ENGINE??? THANKS

If you are not using a eletric engine heater you are. Old school or new. I would run 3 to 4 tanks on starter box max w/heater let cool every half tank.
7-8 tanks kinda rich in circles in parking lot w/sock or cozy over head.
Easy at track for the first gallon and a half. ALWAYS PREHEAT ENGINE BEFORE
START.
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:05 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror View Post
Gentlemen

How should you break-in a new conrod and/or new bearing(s) in an old engine?

Thanks in advance
no real need for break in on rod or crank
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Old 08-08-2010, 03:27 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
no real need for break in on rod or crank
Thanks Monty
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:02 PM
  #223  
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Whats a good way to heat a mill at a track with no power?
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:56 AM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by d8racer3 View Post
Whats a good way to heat a mill at a track with no power?
I would just use a pencil torch and sum patience being careful not to heat carburator.
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:14 PM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by d8racer3 View Post
Whats a good way to heat a mill at a track with no power?
We will have our 12v Comp heater available in Sept. You can power from 11.1v Lipo in your starter box. Super trick...
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