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Old 04-16-2010, 07:12 PM   #181
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I just had my wife time it once I got it started. I ran for 3 minute intervals instead of 2, and then 5 minute intervals for the last three.
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Old 04-17-2010, 02:37 PM   #182
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Ok here's a question. Do I get the engine to temp and then run it at temperature for the suggested time intervals? Gonna break in a new Dynamite Platinum 12 in my FT GT2 soon. Wanna be sure I get it right.
Get it up to temp with a heat gun, then start it and do then do the timed intervals
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:10 PM   #183
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Is there a quantitative way to know when an engine is fully broken in other than just counting the number of tanks cycled through (as described in this thread)?
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:50 PM   #184
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Is there a quantitative way to know when an engine is fully broken in other than just counting the number of tanks cycled through (as described in this thread)?
i call it "dropping its nuts"

the tune will just go really rich on ya while you are running it , usually how i describe it on the novarossi engines
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:13 AM   #185
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Is there a quantitative way to know when an engine is fully broken in other than just counting the number of tanks cycled through (as described in this thread)?
The engine will go rich, and the tune will stabilize...and the engine won't feel or sound like it's fighting to get out of its own way.

In other words, no not a quantitative way scientifically speaking, but you'll know once it happens.

In general for most high-pinch Italian engines, this process can require several hours' worth of running (1+ gallons).
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:15 AM   #186
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Ok here's a question. Do I get the engine to temp and then run it at temperature for the suggested time intervals? Gonna break in a new Dynamite Platinum 12 in my FT GT2 soon. Wanna be sure I get it right.
Heat the engine w/a heat gun or hot hair-dryer and then get it going. It'll be easier to start and you won't gouge your flywheel prying it over w/a screwdriver this way.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:11 PM   #187
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Heat the engine w/a heat gun or hot hair-dryer and then get it going. It'll be easier to start and you won't gouge your flywheel prying it over w/a screwdriver this way.
Competition Heat .21 engine heater
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:21 PM   #188
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Competition Heat .21 engine heater
I have been using a method involving the competition heat block heater for the last 4 break ins and I must say it definitely simplifies my method
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:13 AM   #189
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I like rich full throttle on the box way, engines "drop their nuts" in 4 tanks this way. :-)
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:11 PM   #190
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rc mayor what is the method you are referring to,i think i seen it on you tube.look under tomo711tomo its the one that shows him breaking his engine the time on the video is like 8 min. i am new to engine tuning but i would like to try this method.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:40 PM   #191
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Ya, the first part of the video is right, it takes more than 8 minutes though. More like 20-30. You don't need a radio or tires. I do some heat cycling with the main needle, let it rev out by leaning almost a turn, then richen back up. Works great. Just dont do it for too long. 4 tanks max and don't let it run out of fuel. Close the throttle before refueling or the engine will go nuts.
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:25 AM   #192
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saw this method from a RC magazine before which done by Adam Darke. Just start with very rich, and slowly lean it till 80c, then rich it again and lean it again to 85c and so on till 100c. But i havent try this method before
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:22 AM   #193
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Hi Monty.

I've just read the very first post in this thread - your break in suggestions.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you use heat gun / competition heater on the head before every start of an engine under the break in process?

How about starting with idle for a few tanks of fuel? Don't you do that now, and afterward put the car on the track?

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Old 05-18-2010, 12:27 AM   #194
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I have followed this break in procedure on my last 3 engines ( 2 x plus4c 1x os speed) and i now have engines that seem to last longer than when i used to break them in by idling tanks and running rich, I swear by this procedure now and would highly recommend it.

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Old 05-21-2010, 10:51 PM   #195
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Hi.

Found this in a Monty Houston thread . It's from the 04-11-2010:

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Originally Posted by houston View Post
do 3 heat cycles within the first tank up to 210 degrees (5 min. intervals),at idle on stand? yes
you will have to play with the low speed needle and idle adj. , use rag or sock or whatever you feel suit to cover head .

run it around gently at 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband about 1 full tank at a time (or 10 min.) , let it cool , do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips..not high?slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts.

richen the needles a bit and run it about 180 on the track ( or street) for 3 straight tanks (or 30 min.) monitoring temps frequently leaning it out until you can start to feel the powerband (check the plug at this point and let it cool down),what am I looking for exactly on the plug ? make sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine .

go back out on the track,(lean out slowly) when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 180 - 230° , let it cool .
go out and run the rest of the gallon til the power comes up and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon . use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step

hope this helps ya , pretty detailed

monty

do it just like i said and you will have great success

main keys to break in
- use good quality fuel such as byrons
- do not over rev engine!
- keep between 180-210°
This must be the newest break in bible, right?
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