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Old 10-31-2009, 12:21 AM   #136
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Not sure how much a gallon is exactly but after today, just got back from final run in maybe, Ive dont 1 litre and a half roughly... its screaming off its tits!!
One of the guys from the track said its tuned roughly to 85% and thats fast enough for me for now. I hope I did it correct? Nothing seems to be going wrong, in my mind anyway...
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:48 AM   #137
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Originally Posted by Nu-Moo View Post
Not sure how much a gallon is exactly but after today, just got back from final run in maybe, Ive dont 1 litre and a half roughly... its screaming off its tits!!
One of the guys from the track said its tuned roughly to 85% and thats fast enough for me for now. I hope I did it correct? Nothing seems to be going wrong, in my mind anyway...
Good. Keep it on the rich side until you've got about 4 quarts of fuel through it. Most will agree that an engine is not fully broken in until then. You'll notice a change once the engine loses it's pinch. Temps will suddenly go down and tuning will stay consistent.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:41 PM   #138
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This engine is a beast, goes hard and getting better and better with each run. Its hard to turn over at times though, I think because the engine is still a little tight. Even after I heat her up the flywheel gets stuck sometimes and by the time I get it running my starter box is out of battery. Ive been told to put 2 flat packs in to get 14v instead of using the 12v battery, even better still put a lippo in... Im thinking of adding a lippo in sometime this week.
All in all, Im a happy man with my new hobby and set up ofcourse...
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:35 PM   #139
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Get the lipo for sure. The NiMH packs wear out quick as well. And yup your pinch is still there and once that goes away, the temps will go down as well and it's considered fully broken in.

Have fun!
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Old 11-16-2009, 11:06 AM   #140
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i will be running my new nova plus 4 in this way , i will assume that no matter what the make of the motor that this is the suggested way ?
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:46 PM   #141
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Yes, that's correct.
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Old 11-22-2009, 04:59 AM   #142
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Sounds like a good plan .... I'll be using this method to break in a new .21 which ever one that will be.
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:52 PM   #143
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Cappys getting a 8th scale! Cool. Its about time.
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:22 PM   #144
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i will be starting to break in with this method to on my new alpha z852 but in alpha's break in it say to use 16% for the first bit of break in then 25-30%.

Should i use thier method?

cheers
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:30 PM   #145
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Use the fuel that you're going to use after its broken in. Be it 16%, 25% or 30%+
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:04 AM   #146
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Is this method valid for my Losi 350 in my 8ight rtr buggy? Sorry I just wanted to clarify before I tried it.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:19 AM   #147
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Yes, it's valid for any nitro engine that features ringless construction and a tapered cylinder, which is 99.9 percent of all engines used in RC cars.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:20 AM   #148
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Quote:
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Yes, it's valid for any nitro engine that features ringless construction and a tapered cylinder, which is 99.9 percent of all engines used in RC cars.
Awesome! Thanks Steve
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:40 AM   #149
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I just bought a new crank and rod for one of my engines. would i have to complete the break in process again after installing, or just heat cycle it a few times?
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:32 AM   #150
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I just bought a new crank and rod for one of my engines. would i have to complete the break in process again after installing, or just heat cycle it a few times?
Just replacing the crank/rod does not require any breaking in , go run it !

The main reason for the heat cycling is to temper the metals of the piston/sleeve set , seat all the parts and let the cross hatching in the sleeves chrome to cut and form a super smooth seal that results in perfect compression for a long time when done properly.

Hope this helps,
Monty
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