![]() |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 5850567)
some engines are too efficient like extechs , they run at like 175-200 with way too hard of a powerband . i like 220-250 and smooth powerband , anywhere in that range , i am happy :nod:
|
So i have a question regarding the procedure for applying ARO in the original post... What type, if any, ARO should you use in an engine with a silicone filled crank such as the OS Speed? Would petrolium based ARO's react with the silicone filling?
I have wondered this for some time now, and as such, have not used ARO on my 2 Speeds for fear of ruining the crankshaft! |
Originally Posted by lowey79
(Post 5870300)
So i have a question regarding the procedure for applying ARO in the original post... What type, if any, ARO should you use in an engine with a silicone filled crank such as the OS Speed? Would petrolium based ARO's react with the silicone filling?
I have wondered this for some time now, and as such, have not used ARO on my 2 Speeds for fear of ruining the crankshaft! imo , you are right about petroleum based oils . just my opinion:cool: |
Great Thread!!!!
Pete. |
So this GMK ARO is it OK for to use on a speed or no?
|
OS VG's are made with cheap materials. The sleeve is made of nickel. Even with a good tune its hard to get a good life span out of them. Also its hard to pinch them because the sleeve wears down so much
|
i have a NR 3 port. it is running on a near perfect tune. runs great.... except it want to lose fire. it may go 5 laps and die and the next time it will only go a half lap. it usually dies on an impact like a jump or a crash. it will also die coming out of a corner. after i get out of the fuel and then i get back in. usually sounds like i just ran out of fuel on a perfect tune. ?????????? the engine has 1.5 gallons on it. has good pinch.????????
please help.:confused::confused::confused::confused: |
Originally Posted by busaboy
(Post 5896560)
i have a NR 3 port. it is running on a near perfect tune. runs great.... except it want to lose fire. it may go 5 laps and die and the next time it will only go a half lap. it usually dies on an impact like a jump or a crash. it will also die coming out of a corner. after i get out of the fuel and then i get back in. usually sounds like i just ran out of fuel on a perfect tune. ?????????? the engine has 1.5 gallons on it. has good pinch.????????
please help.:confused::confused::confused::confused: |
helpful
this is helpful very helpful..thank goodness for the veterans of this hobby
|
a very helpful thread tks for all the info
|
Originally Posted by busaboy
(Post 5896560)
i have a NR 3 port. it is running on a near perfect tune. runs great.... except it want to lose fire. it may go 5 laps and die and the next time it will only go a half lap. it usually dies on an impact like a jump or a crash. it will also die coming out of a corner. after i get out of the fuel and then i get back in. usually sounds like i just ran out of fuel on a perfect tune. ?????????? the engine has 1.5 gallons on it. has good pinch.????????
please help.:confused::confused::confused::confused: I've had this problem with some of my car and a smaller flywheel has solved it! |
Correct method to shut the engine down
Houston,
I have a question for you. Some of the local racers here just returned from the Hank Perry Race in Spokane and they were informed from more than one Pro racer to not touch the flywheel to shut the engine off. They were told that method is hard on the rod. I'm not trying to start anything here, but that doesn't sound logical about the rod IMO. These guys were told to cover the exhaust pipe stinger to shut the engine off is a better method. I know that can cause a hydraulic lock in the cylinder and dissagree with this method. Am I wrong? What is your opinion and reasons? Thank you for your time. |
Originally Posted by ssuga20
(Post 5919411)
Houston,
I have a question for you. Some of the local racers here just returned from the Hank Perry Race in Spokane and they were informed from more than one Pro racer to not touch the flywheel to shut the engine off. They were told that method is hard on the rod. I'm not trying to start anything here, but that doesn't sound logical about the rod IMO. These guys were told to cover the exhaust pipe stinger to shut the engine off is a better method. I know that can cause a hydraulic lock in the cylinder and dissagree with this method. Am I wrong? What is your opinion and reasons? Thank you for your time. engines :) |
reverse nitro flow
hi guys,
what could've caused the nitro in the tubing to 'back flow' when i crank it on the starterbox? it's was fine 10mins ago but after it stalls and when i tried restarting, it just wouldnt start anymore and i notice the nitro would 'back flow' and my nitro line will be empty of nitro... :weird: even if i tried covering the exhaust and managed to pump nitro into the carb, the nitro would 'back flow' again when i crank it on the box! :cry: |
Check your temps :nod:
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:52 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.