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Old 02-09-2004, 05:20 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10
Just a rule of thumb, longer pipe has bottom end power, shorter pipe has higher top end.
thks bro for that tips........
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Old 02-13-2004, 05:46 AM   #92
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Default Conrod

Hi Guys

I have just finished running in a new Nova Max S5, and i would like to know when I should be thinking about changing the rod in the engine. I don't know alot about these engines(Usually run Rossi Pixi's, but wanted a Max because I bought a serpent)and I am getting conflicting points of view. Thanks
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Old 02-13-2004, 07:58 AM   #93
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Default Re: Conrod

Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
Hi Guys

I have just finished running in a new Nova Max S5, and i would like to know when I should be thinking about changing the rod in the engine. I don't know alot about these engines(Usually run Rossi Pixi's, but wanted a Max because I bought a serpent)and I am getting conflicting points of view. Thanks
Take note that Nova based engines' crank pin comes at 4.27mm and maximun wear is at 4.23mm. Also in the Novamega manual they recomend to change conrod after 10 hours of running. My suggestion is to change conrod after break-in, and then follow the suggestions of R.Poage below
AFM

When to change the connecting rod. by R.Poage (Ashford Hobby)

The connecting rod is one of the most stressed parts in any engine, and therefore needs to be checked frequently to avoid expensive engine damage due to failure. Some factories suggests that connecting rods be subjected to a measured operating life, and replaced after 5 liters of fuel (maximum 1 1/2 gallons) under normal operating circumstances. Some factories suggest visual inspection to determine rod life.
We feel that a combination of the two methods is best to ensure catching a rod before it goes bad. It is also very important to check the condition of the connecting rod periodically during this operating life to ensure that premature wear has not developed. We recommend that this check be performed before each race day, and the easiest way is to remove the rear cover from the engine (raise the piston up into a compressed position first! before removing the rear cover) then gently rotate the crankshaft in both directions to determine the amount of play in the connecting rod. If the amount of play seems excessive (you can detect movement/play with your eye), we suggest carefully disassembling the engine and measuring of the crankshaft pin and connecting rod for excessively wear, a maximum differential of .05 mm in diameters is acceptable. The fact that the crankshaft pin must be absolutely round (as must be the hole in the connecting rod) is one of the most overlooked aspects of engine wear, and can result in damage even with a brand new rod. The proper way to measure this is to measure with a micrometer on one axes (in line with the direction the rod would travel) and then again on the axes perpendicular to the first. The difference of these two measurements should be < .002 if any. The connecting rod should also be visually inspected for signs of wear in the bearing areas, and the oiling holes cleared of any debris. Obtain the correct factory replacement con rod and "new wrist pin clips". Install the new rod exactly like the old one was before you removed it. Note the oil hole in the con rod should be towards the crank.
We also suggest that you inspect and consider replacing the rod if the engine has seen any trauma such as a failure of the two-speed one-way (over revving the engine) or a significant over heating of the engine.
As a general rule engines that are run hard should have a rod replacement at least every 3 to 5 gallons of fuel regardless of visual inspection. It is very hard to standardize how hard our customers run their engines or what kinds of gearing or temperatures these engines see but is impossible to rebuild and engine with a hole in it so error on the conservative side is in order.
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Old 02-13-2004, 04:29 PM   #94
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Thanks for the reply AFM

This will be very helpfull
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:32 PM   #95
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If anyone is interested, i have a 5 port novamax for sale. Very new....

Pm me for details
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Old 02-18-2004, 03:12 AM   #96
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Just curious can a 16% nitro using Nova 6Tf plug make yer engine hotter on the Max? Or should i use the Tornado 25% for its optimum performance? what about shim? is it ok to use the stock shim(as in out of box) for the 25%?

Thanks guys.
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:07 AM   #97
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I am currently using 16% with a 6 plug and the engine is running fine, i have a .3mm shim as well. The engine is not overheating at all, but I have only ran 1 1/2 litres through it so far
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:42 AM   #98
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I have a question? How does the NovaMax MAX3 Turbo compare to the RB Rody V12 3 Port (415)? They are both based on the Ns12 S3, how do they compare tune wise?
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:51 AM   #99
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There are a few rody's that run at our track and they are fast, I run the max 5 port and am yet to see max 3port turbo so can't help you sn. I would like to know myself as I was thinking of getting a 3 port max. Anyone help us?
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:56 PM   #100
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have any of you guys tried runnng ts engine without
the venturi. is there any different in performance.
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:37 PM   #101
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What is the difference between the Nova Max P5 ans the S5. Are the bore and stroke the same?
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:44 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally posted by MatrixRacer
What is the difference between the Nova Max P5 ans the S5. Are the bore and stroke the same?
Goldfinger mentioned that the P5 is based on the NS engine while the S5 is based on the newer NSR with the micro casted piston.
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:14 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Goldfinger mentioned that the P5 is based on the NS engine while the S5 is based on the newer NSR with the micro casted piston.
...as always.. never missed a thing.

Hi Ravi Nair, Ive been trying that.
For me, that is no point to run without it. Yes.. the bottom torque is even more powerfull and you got nothing but burnt rubber. (Mine is spinning hard even with 35 shore)
Not to mention the mid-range tuning difficullity when you take out the venturi.
Try the smaller (5.4 mm) is more wise..
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:48 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
...as always.. never missed a thing.


Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Hi Ravi Nair, Ive been trying that.
For me, that is no point to run without it. Yes.. the bottom torque is even more powerfull and you got nothing but burnt rubber. (Mine is spinning hard even with 35 shore)
Not to mention the mid-range tuning difficullity when you take out the venturi.
Try the smaller (5.4 mm) is more wise..
I'll try and run the engine with the given insert and see the performance difference.

Hey, what's your mileage on the Max engine? Pipe model (length), fuel, number of shims, plug number info would be useful. Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:00 AM   #105
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I tried running my X12 Rody tune without the venturi and it really
had a lot of bottom end power, which result in excess tire ware.
So I was advise by some pro to lower down the throttle speed......
it works for me....tire do not skid so much now.
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