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Old 01-16-2004, 06:56 AM   #31
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Default Plugs for TR

Gonna break in a new TR non turbo this weekend. First on road
nitro car/engine and i wanted to stock up on glow plugs.
The engine came with an OS A5, but i have a few brand new
McCoy MC-59 laying around.
Can I use the MC-59 safely with this engine?
THXs
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Old 01-16-2004, 07:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Ok just to clarify OS's naming convention:
Close but not quite. All CV engines are side exhaust, be it 12, 15 or 18. The '-R' was their stab at a race worthy engine, a la the .12 CV-R and .15 CV-R, but they are both SIDE EXHAUST. The only rear exhaust .12 OS makes is the TR series, be they '-T' (turbo plug) or not. The (P) designates a pilot shaft, and the '-X' denotes pull start.

Hope that helps a bit...
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:57 AM   #33
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question, just bought os .12cv-r(p) for my tc3, was wanting to know what kind of temp. should i use to break in the engine, first engine came with car, so no break in needed. the manuel does not state temp., states just to have engine running rich. alot of info there any info on this would help out alot
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Old 01-23-2004, 01:26 PM   #34
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Default OS TR Break-in quest...

Help!
Nitro newbie here...
started to break in my 1st nitro bump start motor last night,
after dealing w/ some glowplug battery issues finaly got it to turn
over and stay idling for the last quarter of it's 1st tank. please
check out the attached page from the manual. It's kinda
confusing, am i supposd to break it in over 10 tankfuls or 25?
in other words am i suppoed to do 5 then lean then another five.
or 5 tanks lean repeat 5 times?
Tank you all for any help...
1T
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Old 01-25-2004, 09:14 AM   #35
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Default Re: OS TR Break-in quest...

Quote:
Originally posted by Onetrip
Help!
Nitro newbie here...
started to break in my 1st nitro bump start motor last night,
after dealing w/ some glowplug battery issues finaly got it to turn
over and stay idling for the last quarter of it's 1st tank. please
check out the attached page from the manual. It's kinda
confusing, am i supposd to break it in over 10 tankfuls or 25?
in other words am i suppoed to do 5 then lean then another five.
or 5 tanks lean repeat 5 times?
Tank you all for any help...
1T
I run in mine abt 12 tnks total frm idling up to race tuned....still in good shape....after 6 gals.
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Old 02-04-2004, 03:28 PM   #36
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Default os running in and modifying

the way i break my engines in is unconventional and totally against what people and OS themselves reccommend but i can tell you from my experience it definetly produces more power and there is no effects to the life of the engine.
1. first tank as rich as you can get it but keep the engine running. Keep the glow plug igniter on at all times,this will allow a richer setting
2.next tank keep as rich as you can and run the car at half pace.
3.next 2 tanks at about half a turn from OS specifications on main needle and put it to OS specs on low end Needle Run the car under normal conditions but no long flat out straights
4.Tune to race specs and run as per race specs Tune as required you are done

I have used this method for the last 4 years and my CVX goes harder then Std CVR's and my CVR Keeps pace with SOME Nova rossi's and RB's Yes it is unconventional and people will say don't do it,Fine but i know it works and it definetly produces more HP. I race in classes where we all use the same motor. I have never been outpowered and i have done the excercise of running two motors in by my way and the Conventional way and my way has always produced more HP.
The only Mod i do is Run the CEN head and Make sure the exh port is correctly mated to the block and that the header is matched exactly. Every Month or so i will also polish the internals.
I run approx 3 race meets a month and my engine will last a full winter and summer season.
People running engines in for 10 or more tanks are crazy The engines are doing 28000 rpm the pistons are only Aluminium they don't need that many cycles to be run in.
This is my opinion only if you disagree no worries
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Old 02-04-2004, 09:04 PM   #37
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what do you mean by polishing your internals? and does the engine lasts for about 1yr?
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Old 02-04-2004, 09:42 PM   #38
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i LOVE my TR. nothing beats OS reliable power in my opinion.
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:07 PM   #39
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Default Re: Plugs for TR

Quote:
Originally posted by Onetrip
Gonna break in a new TR non turbo this weekend. First on road
nitro car/engine and i wanted to stock up on glow plugs.
The engine came with an OS A5, but i have a few brand new
McCoy MC-59 laying around.
Can I use the MC-59 safely with this engine?
THXs
I use the OS 8. Seems good for temps around 70-80 here in Michigan
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:17 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by rene
what do you mean by polishing your internals? and does the engine lasts for about 1yr?
Yes the piston and liner last's for about a year before it shows signs of wear. I polish the outside of the liner the conrod cranshaft and the button in the head. I have always been a believer that air will travel faster and smoother when surfaces are highly polished. I also polish the air inlet on the carby.

Also always check for air leaks as this is one of the biggest problems i have seen with R/C motors

a year may not seem much but considering i race 3-4 times a month along with practice it's pretty good
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:29 PM   #41
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Whatever areas you polish inside the engine the fuel will want to stick to more rather than blow by or around it, laminar and non-laminar surfaces. Some spots that could be good thing, others not so good.
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Old 02-04-2004, 11:48 PM   #42
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You can get the OS-MAX-engine at... http://www.rc-car-exklusive.com

regards
Daniel
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Old 02-05-2004, 01:14 PM   #43
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Has anyone put ceramic bearings in their engines? Specificaly the TR?
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:21 PM   #44
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IMHO, TR(P)T is a good, easy to tune engine,... love it (although it got stuck once during break-in period, hehe...)

the pipe mentioned, (for a v-one isn't it?!) will have a tendency to give you even more torque, the thing is,... try to shorten the distance between the pipe and the manifold by using shorter coupler or wedging the pipe closer into the coupler (but don't let them touching),... this way you'll get slightly more max-rpm in expense of some torque (which you had aplenty)

i hope this helped, cuz it helped me with my settings
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Old 02-11-2004, 07:28 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by misterntc3
Yes the piston and liner last's for about a year before it shows signs of wear. I polish the outside of the liner the conrod cranshaft and the button in the head. I have always been a believer that air will travel faster and smoother when surfaces are highly polished. I also polish the air inlet on the carby.

Also always check for air leaks as this is one of the biggest problems i have seen with R/C motors

a year may not seem much but considering i race 3-4 times a month along with practice it's pretty good

IMHO, higly polished surface will attract liquid substances to stick on it (fuel vapor is still liquid), therefore, i think none of the ports are supposed to be highly polished, because the exhaust will flow some oil residue as well,... my suggestion is, to polish it 'till the point it's the smoothest, but not yet glossy (satin finish), if possible, create "micro-waves" on the intake port suface to speed the flow (i did this in my full scale engine), hope my opinion helped
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