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wow, i didnt know that. i bought a zac racing head for my novarossi and was even planning to buy the optional 11 fin head. would i still be able to use my zac/kawahara racing head. its still a 9 fin stack but has slightly wider top fins with broader opening to the glow plug near the top than compared to the stock unit. also do you know the shims/head clearance on the RR12L5?
Originally posted by Corse-R Just some warning about the 'small' heatsink of the NSR and RR models. THEY NEED IT. Because the different composition of the piston, he likes to go hotter than previously and works fine hotter, thus why is he uses the smaller cooling head. So don't change it. He loves to go at 140 - 150ºC as I did on one of mine usually. |
whoa, 140 to 150 deg C??? thats 284 to 302 deg F!!! i didnt know they can run that hot.
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Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by thefuzzclub a few weeks back i posted if this is possible. well, based on my experiment i would say that mt12 crankshaft perfectly fit in rs12s5 engine. however, these are my findings so far: If it within 2-3mm diff., should be OK. But if more than that you have a problem. It will be difficult to tune the engine properly if port and crank timing does not match. Try to alter this parts: - Pipes, use turbo dont use EFRA one - Shorten the pressure line (pipe to tank) - Use hotter plugs - tighten your clutch Reset the carb to factory standard and tune again from rich to lean. From your description, your engine is having a "fake" top end mixture. It was to rich low and mid mixture so in the beginning of full throtle the fuel left in the crank is still enough to supply. But the truth in the end is too lean. I solve my tuning problem backthen after i read this theory from parisracing site. Spend some of your time to browse there, it will make your (RC)life easier. Try to learn how to "read" your plug, this is the ultimate and easiest thing to do if you want to know how health is your engine. Have Fun! |
Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by GoldFinger PLs check again the crank timing, if this feel weird for you, just measure (use caliper please) the widht of both crank opening. Its a square hole below the carb that acts like rotary valve. If it within 2-3mm diff., should be OK. But if more than that you have a problem. It will be difficult to tune the engine properly if port and crank timing does not match. Try to alter this parts: - Pipes, use turbo dont use EFRA one - Shorten the pressure line (pipe to tank) - Use hotter plugs - tighten your clutch Reset the carb to factory standard and tune again from rich to lean. From your description, your engine is having a "fake" top end mixture. It was to rich low and mid mixture so in the beginning of full throtle the fuel left in the crank is still enough to supply. But the truth in the end is too lean. I solve my tuning problem backthen after i read this theory from parisracing site. Spend some of your time to browse there, it will make your (RC)life easier. Try to learn how to "read" your plug, this is the ultimate and easiest thing to do if you want to know how health is your engine. Have Fun! this is what i like about this thread, LEARNING and getting others point of views. i have printed the above would also try it. many thanks.... :) :tire: |
Originally posted by icon whoa, 140 to 150 deg C??? thats 284 to 302 deg F!!! i didnt know they can run that hot. |
Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by GoldFinger PLs check again the crank timing, if this feel weird for you, just measure (use caliper please) the widht of both crank opening. Its a square hole below the carb that acts like rotary valve. If it within 2-3mm diff., should be OK. But if more than that you have a problem. It will be difficult to tune the engine properly if port and crank timing does not match. Try to alter this parts: - Pipes, use turbo dont use EFRA one - Shorten the pressure line (pipe to tank) - Use hotter plugs - tighten your clutch Reset the carb to factory standard and tune again from rich to lean. From your description, your engine is having a "fake" top end mixture. It was to rich low and mid mixture so in the beginning of full throtle the fuel left in the crank is still enough to supply. But the truth in the end is too lean. I solve my tuning problem backthen after i read this theory from parisracing site. Spend some of your time to browse there, it will make your (RC)life easier. Try to learn how to "read" your plug, this is the ultimate and easiest thing to do if you want to know how health is your engine. Have Fun! my crankshaft got broken!!! cut into 2 i don't now what happened, what i know is my setting is still rich and i don't abuse my engine by pulling the throttle in a long time, not to mention that our track is small so there are no long straights. it's the 2nd time i encountered this. the same problem the same engine where i first broke the original crankshaft, now it happened again. i know there is something i'm doing wrong, i just know what that is....... :cry: :( :lol: |
Re: Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by thefuzzclub Bad news! my crankshaft got broken!!! cut into 2 i don't now what happened, what i know is my setting is still rich and i don't abuse my engine by pulling the throttle in a long time, not to mention that our track is small so there are no long straights. it's the 2nd time i encountered this. the same problem the same engine where i first broke the original crankshaft, now it happened again. i know there is something i'm doing wrong, i just know what that is....... :cry: :( :lol: Most common engine part that could be broken is the con rod. Usually after 3-4 galons it will deveoped too much play. Small detonation or bit overeving will broke it. But if broken crankshaft, only too much overreving (higher than states in the manual) will broke it. Or you have a mechanical / installation problem. Can describe where is the exact spot that cut in 2 ? |
Re: Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by thefuzzclub my crankshaft got broken!!! It may be coincidental that this one broke but my guess is that it probably has got something to do with the misalignment of the main bearings that the crankshafts broke. Did you ever take out and dissassembled the bearings out of the crankcase? |
Re: Re: Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by GoldFinger [BBut if broken crankshaft, only too much overreving (higher than states in the manual) will broke it. Or you have a mechanical / installation problem.[/B] |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by InitialD Somehow, I suspect mechanical installation problem as two crankshafts broke in the same crankcase. I want to believe that its a mechanical installation issue, probably the allignment of the bearings and you are absolutely right, the 2 crankshafts broke exactly at the same area. I never tried disassembling the bearings, but it looks alligned the way i look at it. well i'm not an engine expert so i guess i'll just consider this as a learning experience....huhuhuhuhu. now this engine will turn to be a spare part engine for my other s12s5....huhuhuhuhu... crankshaft is very expensive to replace!!!!!..... :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: rs12s5 w/ mt12 crankshaft
Originally posted by thefuzzclub I never tried disassembling the bearings, but it looks alligned the way i look at it. well i'm not an engine expert so i guess i'll just consider this as a learning experience....huhuhuhuhu. I also know a few people who when they break a crankshaft in their engine, they try to get a spare crankshaft in and sell it as a 2nd hand engine to another unsuspecting person or just sell the other parts of the engine. Anyway, it would be great if Dino, Top Gun 777 Grinder or Motorman could shed some light on how to detect and know if the crankshaft is installed correctly and aligned in the bearings... |
Since when TG777 and motorman has a spoke person? now what? master of spoke person?
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I had the same problem some time ago with an RB X12 engine. Mine broke the crank in two just at the edge of the front bearing. At the begining I thought it was a worn bearing, I changed it and ¡¡¡bang!! it did it again (2nd crank).
Carefull inspection determined it was the Centax clutch bell that was slightly ovalized because i did a bad operation trying to change pinions thus creating a high rev vibration(I asume) that affected the crank. When i changed the Centax bell, checked the rest of the clutch assembly, the problem was solved. Hope this helps. AFM |
Originally posted by afm I had the same problem some time ago with an RB X12 engine. Mine broke the crank in two just at the edge of the front bearing. At the begining I thought it was a worn bearing, I changed it and ¡¡¡bang!! it did it again (2nd crank). Carefull inspection determined it was the Centax clutch bell that was slightly ovalized because i did a bad operation trying to change pinions thus creating a high rev vibration(I asume) that affected the crank. When i changed the Centax bell, checked the rest of the clutch assembly, the problem was solved. Hope this helps. AFM |
Manticore
Yeah, I also have a pinion tool, the problem is that the bell fell off my hands and believe or not it hit the floor, and at that moment I never thought it had slightly bended, it cost me a new crank and the bell aaagggggghhhh!!!! A buddy of mine broke his crank because he overtightened the nut that holds the flywheel and apparently it created a stress at that point, and during the race the whole clutch assy past every car at the track, jajajajajaja. Stupid experiences...... but real man. AFM |
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