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Old 02-06-2005, 05:37 AM   #1396
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Had several flameouts with my D3R few weekends ago, i put it down to it being worn out. Pulled the plug out today and I noticed that the coil was pushed in to the body of the plug. Also it was broken in one place.

I have never had this happen before looking for some answers why this may happen. It was not over compression, the standard shims are being used. Fuel is good quality 16% nitro content.

check bearing, it happen to me too
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Old 02-06-2005, 06:50 AM   #1397
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Had several flameouts with my D3R few weekends ago, i put it down to it being worn out. Pulled the plug out today and I noticed that the coil was pushed in to the body of the plug. Also it was broken in one place.

I have never had this happen before looking for some answers why this may happen. It was not over compression, the standard shims are being used. Fuel is good quality 16% nitro content.
What size shims you're using??
For 16% Nitro you should have a 0.20mm shim only.

What plug you're using? Just could've been a faulty plug.

Plug fatigue can occur under high sustained RPM's, and this is where the plug stays shiny and the wire just fractures for no reason. When this happens it is usually not a carb. tuning or head clearance problem.
If you see the wire start to pull out of the hole this means that the engine is scavenging really hard and when this occurs the engine is making serious power.
Try a new plug and see if happens again.

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Old 02-06-2005, 08:45 AM   #1398
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It will happen when the compression is abnormal.

If that is a new engine,you need to adjust the shims to get the suitable compression.

If it is a old engine,and it works fine before. There must have some parts which cause the compression abnormal. Or you change the fuel lately....etc.
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Old 02-06-2005, 10:10 AM   #1399
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Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
It will happen when the compression is abnormal.

If that is a new engine,you need to adjust the shims to get the suitable compression.

If it is a old engine,and it works fine before. There must have some parts which cause the compression abnormal. Or you change the fuel lately....etc.
Abslutely correct Dino, if it's old engine and cranck pin or conrod bushing worn...you get abnormal compression (to much). If baerings are worn and there is to much axial play...also abnormal compression.

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Old 02-06-2005, 02:38 PM   #1400
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Default High Temps

Got to run today and no more flame out but the temps were a little high. Changed plug to a nova 5 from a os 7 and the response was beter, it had no power under 270 but it was not zinging at these temps, should i try shiming the clutch bell of the shoes and can a smaller track give high temps to
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:40 PM   #1401
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Default Re: High Temps

Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Got to run today and no more flame out but the temps were a little high. Changed plug to a nova 5 from a os 7 and the response was beter, it had no power under 270 but it was not zinging at these temps, should i try shiming the clutch bell of the shoes and can a smaller track give high temps to
did you race at B&B?
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:05 PM   #1402
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You guys got it, my rear bearing is worn. Thanks!!
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Old 02-06-2005, 05:03 PM   #1403
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did you race at B&B?

Just practice to try and get my motor runing. the track not to bad there only a few bad spots on the straight but very tight and fun
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Old 02-06-2005, 05:45 PM   #1404
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Well i just took it apart no play in the bearings but it has three polished line from top to bottom of the piston and three burn lines on the sleve both on the exhaust side, the piston has a v shaped burn on top and the c/r (bushing) is scraping the backing plate
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Old 02-06-2005, 06:55 PM   #1405
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Default Re: High Temps

Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Got to run today and no more flame out but the temps were a little high. Changed plug to a nova 5 from a os 7 and the response was beter, it had no power under 270 but it was not zinging at these temps, should i try shiming the clutch bell of the shoes and can a smaller track give high temps to
Are you running a turbo head??, What nitro %??, how's your head shimming?

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Old 02-06-2005, 07:07 PM   #1406
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yes
30%
1copper 1alum
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:28 PM   #1407
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20 SMOKE,is it a stock D3R or someone has modified it?
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:40 PM   #1408
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Default Re: Re: Re: High Temps

Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Just practice to try and get my motor runing. the track not to bad there only a few bad spots on the straight but very tight and fun
How is the traction?
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:44 PM   #1409
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
yes
30%
1copper 1alum
For 30% nitro I'd use Nova 7TGF plug.
For 30% Nitro I'd use total 0.50mm shims, so if you say you have 1 alu, which is 0.30mm, the copper should be 0.20mm, but you must measure the copper one you have on, because there are thiner ones.

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Old 02-06-2005, 08:18 PM   #1410
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Default Re: High Temps

Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Got to run today and no more flame out but the temps were a little high. Changed plug to a nova 5 from a os 7 and the response was beter, it had no power under 270 but it was not zinging at these temps, should i try shiming the clutch bell of the shoes and can a smaller track give high temps to
yes, tighten the clutch and rich the low end needle. Wanna more low end torque,I will adjust the clutch first. I will not lean the low end needle to get low end torque. It only work on buggy.
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