R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-17-2004, 03:47 AM   #736
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default Re: Need any help?

Quote:
Originally posted by au_Nightmare
Look who pushed me out of the way to work on my STS Dragon
so cute...Did she tell you that the main needle is a bit too lean?
dino.tw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 04:01 AM   #737
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default Re: Dino:

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
hey Dino. I own a D3, I was wondering what are the specs on the front bearing for the D3? My bearing seems to be leaking, I also am using 3 of the thin washers(from crc ) to prectect the front bearing..

thanks Jason
Jason,

The front bearing is ISO #607 (7x19x6). To buy one "double rubber seals bearing(2RS)" from Boca,make sure it is "C3" class.

Dino
dino.tw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 04:18 AM   #738
Tech Champion
 
jfc_tech's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: www.JonehRC.com
Posts: 7,000
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to jfc_tech
Default

hi Dino...i saw yer picture during the FEMCA race...u wearing red shirt. My friend took picture with you and the STS boss, he said. great!!!!!!!
__________________
If you are in front of me, That's because I let you!
jfc_tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 04:23 AM   #739
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jjmudd
gentleman81,
My STS RS3 Non-Turbo motor just TQ'ed and won the mains in todays club racing, www.edmontonrc.com . The motor is plenty fast, the only trouble I have had is keeping it idling when in for fuel stops...pull in stop and motor dies...re-fires at once and stays lit untill the next fuel stop!! Have tried different heat ranges of plugs and various shim hights...nothing yet. I feel it is solvable with a little more work...maybe bottom too rich and loading??? Dino...sugestions. Other than the tuning problem...which is probably me more than the motor, it runs with all the motors in our club, OS TR's, Rossi Pixi's, Nova Rossi's. The only motor, at our track that is quicker is a M.S. Nova Mega and I think if I were to get the bottom sorted it would be a different story. For the $$$ best bang for the buck...imho.
Dear jjmudd,

Check your clutch first. Some time if your clutch need to be maintained it will happen. When you turn your clutch bell the flywheel should not be moved. If it moved,put on some shims between flywheel nut and bell's bearing if you're using centax clutch.

A old plug also may have this problem.
Too much head shims also may easy to die out if the compression is too small.
Your engine dosen't reach the correct working temperature also may easy to die out.

How much low speed needle adjusting sometime depend on your driving style and track layout. If you always full throttle all the time or the track is width,you need richer low speed needle setting to avoid your engine over heat. If your throttle always is very smooth or the track is very tight,you need to lean the low speed needle a bit.

Regards,
Dino
dino.tw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 04:32 AM   #740
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
hi Dino...i saw yer picture during the FEMCA race...u wearing red shirt. My friend took picture with you and the STS boss, he said. great!!!!!!!
red shirt....

That is not me!
Never wear red shirt....I only wear red underpants during FEMCA CUP for better luck! (superstition)....
dino.tw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 08:03 AM   #741
Tech Elite
 
jjmudd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 2,396
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

dino.tw,

Thanks for the check list!! The clutch is a two shoe Associated with cut and drilled shoes with heavy springs...I'll check the spacing but pretty sure it's good. I run the engine at 240-250 degrees...what do you consider a good race temp to be? 70-80 degrees outside temp.
Thanks for the help, the motor has helped me to earn a partial sponsorship from Jaco!!! Are you looking for any Canadian representation for your motors??
jjmudd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 11:10 AM   #742
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default Re: Re: Dino:

thanks for the help dino:

-jason

Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
Jason,

The front bearing is ISO #607 (7x19x6). To buy one "double rubber seals bearing(2RS)" from Boca,make sure it is "C3" class.

Dino
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 04:33 PM   #743
Tech Master
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

whats the best price i while probably find on a sts d5 the best one? (motor that is)
__________________
MTX4R/PICCO(Trophy Taker) - SERP 950/SIRIO(Board Breaker)
PHI '08 - to be announced.....
www.vorra.org - ironbridgesportspark.com - 301raceway*4LIFE*.com
gentleman81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 04:58 PM   #744
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 1,296
Default

I got my Dragon 5 port port from http://rc-mushroom.com also lots of spares for D5/D3

au_Nightmare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 05:01 PM   #745
Tech Master
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

so u love your d5 huh?
__________________
MTX4R/PICCO(Trophy Taker) - SERP 950/SIRIO(Board Breaker)
PHI '08 - to be announced.....
www.vorra.org - ironbridgesportspark.com - 301raceway*4LIFE*.com
gentleman81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 05:18 PM   #746
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 1,296
Default

I do, great bang for buck, but shes giving me some trouble ATM - I put a o-ring in carb that was too big (couldnt wait hehehe) but correct new ones should be here this week so once I replace that hopefully she will be back to GO GO GO..
au_Nightmare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 05:21 PM   #747
Tech Master
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

what does ATM mean and if i get the motor am i gonna have to make any changes, i see talk about shims, o rings, etc. are they maintence parts or are they for different racing environments?
__________________
MTX4R/PICCO(Trophy Taker) - SERP 950/SIRIO(Board Breaker)
PHI '08 - to be announced.....
www.vorra.org - ironbridgesportspark.com - 301raceway*4LIFE*.com
gentleman81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 05:41 PM   #748
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 1,296
Default

For 30% nitro its ready to go, for 15% nitro you must remove the the cooper shim which is 0.2mm the aluminium shim is 0.3mm

Do NOT move the fuel inlet on the carb (like I did) will create air leaks.

Follow the break in instructions and thats about it (I miss anything anyone?)
au_Nightmare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 05:45 PM   #749
Tech Master
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

will the 30% cause a shorter engine life, i run 20% odonell in my os rg .21? what type fuel do u like?
__________________
MTX4R/PICCO(Trophy Taker) - SERP 950/SIRIO(Board Breaker)
PHI '08 - to be announced.....
www.vorra.org - ironbridgesportspark.com - 301raceway*4LIFE*.com
gentleman81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2004, 05:58 PM   #750
Tech Lord
 
20 SMOKE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HVR_ WEEKI WACHEE FL
Posts: 10,299
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by au_Nightmare
For 30% nitro its ready to go, for 15% nitro you must remove the the cooper shim which is 0.2mm the aluminium shim is 0.3mm

Do NOT move the fuel inlet on the carb (like I did) will create air leaks.

Follow the break in instructions and thats about it (I miss anything anyone?)
no rite on gentleman81 if you get one take your time with the break in they do take awhile as for 30% people have gallons through these things it depends on how hard you are one it (as leaning on it)
__________________
Jamie W
*Team Tekin*Tekno-rc*DE Racing*AKA*DDHRC*
20 SMOKE is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
.:Go Engines vs. Jammin Engines:. lanerbrainer205 Nitro Off-Road 20 12-23-2007 04:46 PM
.12 Engines sale all new pipes too. 6 engines ericsp2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-06-2007 02:19 PM
os engines compared to rb engines rhymster Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 4 08-03-2007 05:13 PM
IDM engines and picco engines foampervert Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 5 11-23-2006 05:36 AM
SH engines crazyjr Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 7 01-20-2006 03:13 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:56 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net