R/C Tech Forums - STS engines

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Re: Need any help?

Quote:

Originally posted by au_Nightmare
Look who pushed me out of the way to work on my STS Dragon :)
http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/STS_D5_help.jpg

:lol: :lol: :lol: so cute...Did she tell you that the main needle is a bit too lean?:smile:

Quote:

Originally posted by jscamry
hey Dino. I own a D3, I was wondering what are the specs on the front bearing for the D3? My bearing seems to be leaking, I also am using 3 of the thin washers(from crc ) to prectect the front bearing..

thanks Jason

Jason,

The front bearing is ISO #607 (7x19x6). To buy one "double rubber seals bearing(2RS)" from Boca,make sure it is "C3" class.

Dino

hi Dino...i saw yer picture during the FEMCA race...u wearing red shirt. My friend took picture with you and the STS boss, he said. great!!!!!!! :D

Quote:

Originally posted by jjmudd
gentleman81,
My STS RS3 Non-Turbo motor just TQ'ed and won the mains in todays club racing, www.edmontonrc.com . The motor is plenty fast, the only trouble I have had is keeping it idling when in for fuel stops...pull in stop and motor dies...re-fires at once and stays lit untill the next fuel stop!! Have tried different heat ranges of plugs and various shim hights...nothing yet. I feel it is solvable with a little more work...maybe bottom too rich and loading??? Dino...sugestions. Other than the tuning problem...which is probably me more than the motor, it runs with all the motors in our club, OS TR's, Rossi Pixi's, Nova Rossi's. The only motor, at our track that is quicker is a M.S. Nova Mega and I think if I were to get the bottom sorted it would be a different story.:nod: For the $$$ best bang for the buck...imho.

Dear jjmudd,

Check your clutch first. Some time if your clutch need to be maintained it will happen. When you turn your clutch bell the flywheel should not be moved. If it moved,put on some shims between flywheel nut and bell's bearing if you're using centax clutch.

A old plug also may have this problem.
Too much head shims also may easy to die out if the compression is too small.
Your engine dosen't reach the correct working temperature also may easy to die out.

How much low speed needle adjusting sometime depend on your driving style and track layout. If you always full throttle all the time or the track is width,you need richer low speed needle setting to avoid your engine over heat. If your throttle always is very smooth or the track is very tight,you need to lean the low speed needle a bit.

Regards,
Dino

Quote:

Originally posted by jfc_tech
hi Dino...i saw yer picture during the FEMCA race...u wearing red shirt. My friend took picture with you and the STS boss, he said. great!!!!!!! :D

red shirt....:eek: :weird: :confused:

That is not me!:lol:
Never wear red shirt....I only wear red underpants during FEMCA CUP for better luck! (superstition)....:D

dino.tw,

Thanks for the check list!! The clutch is a two shoe Associated with cut and drilled shoes with heavy springs...I'll check the spacing but pretty sure it's good. I run the engine at 240-250 degrees...what do you consider a good race temp to be? 70-80 degrees outside temp.
Thanks for the help, the motor has helped me to earn a partial sponsorship from Jaco!!! Are you looking for any Canadian representation for your motors??:nod: :D

thanks for the help dino:

-jason

Quote:

Originally posted by dino.tw
Jason,

The front bearing is ISO #607 (7x19x6). To buy one "double rubber seals bearing(2RS)" from Boca,make sure it is "C3" class.

Dino

whats the best price i while probably find on a sts d5 the best one? (motor that is)

I got my Dragon 5 port port from http://rc-mushroom.com also lots of spares for D5/D3

:) :)

so u love your d5 huh?

I do, great bang for buck, but shes giving me some trouble ATM - I put a o-ring in carb that was too big (couldnt wait hehehe) but correct new ones should be here this week so once I replace that hopefully she will be back to GO GO GO..

what does ATM mean and if i get the motor am i gonna have to make any changes, i see talk about shims, o rings, etc. are they maintence parts or are they for different racing environments?

For 30% nitro its ready to go, for 15% nitro you must remove the the cooper shim which is 0.2mm the aluminium shim is 0.3mm

Do NOT move the fuel inlet on the carb (like I did) will create air leaks.

Follow the break in instructions and thats about it :) (I miss anything anyone?)

will the 30% cause a shorter engine life, i run 20% odonell in my os rg .21? what type fuel do u like?

Quote:

Originally posted by au_Nightmare
For 30% nitro its ready to go, for 15% nitro you must remove the the cooper shim which is 0.2mm the aluminium shim is 0.3mm

Do NOT move the fuel inlet on the carb (like I did) will create air leaks.

Follow the break in instructions and thats about it :) (I miss anything anyone?)

no rite on:nod: gentleman81 if you get one take your time with the break in they do take awhile as for 30% people have gallons through these things it depends on how hard you are one it (as leaning on it)