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Old 04-10-2004, 01:31 PM   #586
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TOEBSTER2. you need about 2 Ltrs of fuel in D5 before its ready, yes 23+ tanks!

Quote:
Originally posted by NitroOB4You
however I am using the two shims as noted in Ofna's instructions.
Oh yeah, those massive plastic things.. Yeah im using them ehhe When shim was talk about I thought of thin shim not the big plastic ones opps


I did my linkages different to most ppl, want a pic? email me
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Old 04-10-2004, 09:29 PM   #587
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Update :
I fiddled around quite a bit today with this engine and carb. I got the carb working smoothly with the car's linkage. Also, as noted in an earlier post, I found that the back plate screws had loosened at some point. I took them out, gave em a lil lock-tite love. I am hoping this is the reason why Ive had the idling problems that Ive posted about. I will try again tomorrow to start her up n see how things go...will keep ya posted
Thanks all for your help and patience .
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Old 04-10-2004, 09:58 PM   #588
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Sounds like the "Carb" problem was a linkage problem then hehehehehe
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Old 04-11-2004, 02:44 AM   #589
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Quote:
Originally posted by TOEBSTER2
Hey guys I got 7 tanks through the D5 and piston is still sticking in sleeve. What's up wit dat? Should I keep Babying it?
Sounds like your only 1/3 the way done Jason. Here is a link to the manual.http://www.stsrc.com.tw/info/2003.12manual.pdf

Also what Plug would you guys recomend for thr RS5 Turbo?
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Old 04-11-2004, 10:16 AM   #590
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Ok...due to the Holiday, I can't spend the time Id like to today :P:P:P
However, I was able to get the engine running for a quick shot.
I let it run for a minute , maybe...the idle seemed fine, but slowly revved higher...now I think Im in the ballpark...next time I get a chance to run it, I will turn the slow needle out and see how that goes.
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Old 04-11-2004, 05:38 PM   #591
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Alright, after this question you can consider me a newbie to nitro. I am probably just paranoid , but if the piston is stuck at top dead center, should i be able to turn the flywheel and cause the piston to unstick? Or does the engine have bad compression?

Also, what plug are reccommended to break in a rs3 at temps of 45-55 F?
Thanks, and don't try to laugh too hard at my stupidity on this question.
Later
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Old 04-11-2004, 09:40 PM   #592
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I took the copper shim out of my motor and it was a little better on 16%.

But it kept going real lean, then you would richen it a little and it would be heaps rich. It was really hard to keep on tune.
It's only a new motor had a couple of days on it. It was lapped in first because I needed to race it on the weekend.

My mate gave me a another carby to try and the motor went heaps better and stayed on tune.

The question is has anybody else had this problem with there sts .12 d3. Is there a problem with the carbies.

Also I am gong to get a mate to modify it for me. Does anyone know what really makes these things go hard.

Thanks Ybakoff.
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Old 04-12-2004, 09:20 AM   #593
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Originally posted by papanillu
I just bought an STS RS3 engine,
when I opened the box I found an additional conrod, and I would like to know when is th best moment to change it.

I use 16% nitro fuel.
Can I use the same pins and e-clips?

I also found there was no stickers in the box, and I love stickers, can I also ask for them?

Regards from a Sunny Barcelona(Spain)
Some STS distributors will put an additional conrod in the box. It's all depend on the distributor's selling tactic.

The best time to change a new conrod is when your engine finish run-in process. If the Piston Wrist Pin and e-clip are still fine,you don't need to change it.

Also mail me your address to [email protected]. I will send the sticker to you.

Regards,
Dino
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Old 04-12-2004, 09:25 AM   #594
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
Also what Plug would you guys recomend for thr RS5 Turbo?
I like to use OS P6 turbo plug on .12 engine and P7 on .21 engine.
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Old 04-12-2004, 09:40 AM   #595
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Quote:
Originally posted by bballer
Alright, after this question you can consider me a newbie to nitro. I am probably just paranoid , but if the piston is stuck at top dead center, should i be able to turn the flywheel and cause the piston to unstick? Or does the engine have bad compression?

Also, what plug are reccommended to break in a rs3 at temps of 45-55 F?
Thanks, and don't try to laugh too hard at my stupidity on this question.
Later
bballer
Hi bballer,

No one will laugh at you here. We all were newbie ever.

When I find the piston and sleeve are too tight,I will take out the plug and use starter to turn the flywheel. Remember your fuel tank shouldn't be empty. Let the fuel spout out from the plug hole. The fuel will lubricate all moving parts. Then install the plug and try to start it.

If you only can get Nova's plug there,use #5 to break-in.
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:01 AM   #596
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ybakoff
I took the copper shim out of my motor and it was a little better on 16%.

But it kept going real lean, then you would richen it a little and it would be heaps rich. It was really hard to keep on tune.
It's only a new motor had a couple of days on it. It was lapped in first because I needed to race it on the weekend.

My mate gave me a another carby to try and the motor went heaps better and stayed on tune.

The question is has anybody else had this problem with there sts .12 d3. Is there a problem with the carbies.

Also I am gong to get a mate to modify it for me. Does anyone know what really makes these things go hard.

Thanks Ybakoff.
The composite carburetor is more good for experienced racer. Because it's let your engine can be Over Clock like some CUP can be O.C. It will not warn you if your engine is over heat. You can say it dosen't have red-line but only die-line. So with composite carburetor you need more careful on tuning. Step by step is the key point. After any adjusting you need to run several laps and measure the engine temperature.

About modifing,I would suggest to higher the exhaust port if you have a width track.
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:09 AM   #597
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You guys are a great source of information. It just makes the decision about which engine (Evo2 or D3/5) that much harder! I am pretty sure if I get the STS, I will use the polishing paste (Colgate toothpaste!) on the P/S to cut down on break in time (impatient and nitro is expensive just for breakin!). I most likely will also get the conrod just to be on the safe side.
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Old 04-12-2004, 01:57 PM   #598
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thanks dino, one more question.

What is the size of the head shim that comes with the rs3? I am running 20% nitro and know i need to shim the head .4m/m (+/-.1) Can I just break it in with the head shim that comes supplied? Thanks
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Old 04-12-2004, 04:37 PM   #599
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ybakoff
I took the copper shim out of my motor and it was a little better on 16%.

But it kept going real lean, then you would richen it a little and it would be heaps rich. It was really hard to keep on tune.
It's only a new motor had a couple of days on it. It was lapped in first because I needed to race it on the weekend.

My mate gave me a another carby to try and the motor went heaps better and stayed on tune.

The question is has anybody else had this problem with there sts .12 d3. Is there a problem with the carbies.

Also I am gong to get a mate to modify it for me. Does anyone know what really makes these things go hard.

Thanks Ybakoff.
Yes, I have a D5 that Im having major problems with.Im sure the engine is fine, but the carb??? I know I can send it back to STS to have it looked at, but this could take a month or more as I am in the U.S.A, so Im trying to find some alternative. I would like to know what other "carby" your mate gave you.Try 'n see if something else works for me. Thanks
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:30 PM   #600
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methinks a carb to fit a mugen/novarossi would fit. They have quite a few on eBay. You could give it a shot...
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