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Old 03-18-2004, 09:32 PM   #466
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THANKS STS.

I got my new crank and Rod.


Thank you for the GREAT SERVICE.
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Old 03-19-2004, 05:44 PM   #467
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Default engine tuning

Hi guys,
Just got myself a sts dragon 5 port and having trouble with it. I have run it in according to the instructions and having trouble leaning it out.

I slowly leaned the top end needle in but it dosnt seem to help much in the top end, it dosnt have enough power to change into 2nd gear. So i keep leaning it till it has enough power to run all the way thru the two gears nicely and the enigne over heats after a few minutes.

Basically i have found that there is a tiny gap between running way rich and running to lean. What am i doing wrong??

Im running a mtx2 with standard gearing, cetrax cluth with 20% nitro fuel.

thanks.
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Old 03-19-2004, 06:47 PM   #468
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SO you did read the part....
take out the glow plug and turn the flywheel by hand, let the piston pass the top dead center in the sleeve. When you don't have any significant friction or just a little snug, you can start leaning the main needle incrementally in small steps

Mine is going good, just have a loading up problem I feel is due to too much tank pressure too soon on throttle during infield part of track so I am going to put longer pressure line on see if it helps.

I did adjust the centax clutch to change to 2nd sooner (was running a Sirio .12 before)

Was 2 laps up in last final, until snapping a front CVD, then front wheel falling off while trying to baby car to end of race hehehehe..
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:57 PM   #469
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Default Just want to share my experience with the D3

Be patient!

It took me almost one gallon to fully break-in the D3 according to the instruction. So my last week was kinda boring....



P.S. I just talked to Dino on MSN.... He wanted me to post my whole process of breaking-in the D3... so... here you go...

Quote:
I had gotten two STS RS3 before I tried out the Dragons. I liked the RS3 alot. I used to call them "Cheap Bastard!" because the engine and parts are cheap, and I can keep up with people using $250+ engines (I race the Sportman class). After Dino introduced Geoff to me, I decided to get both D3 & D5 from projectzen a month ago. Now I have done the break-in process to the D3 and am going to race-tuned it this week. If you don't want to read the whole story, the conclusion is as stated above: Be patient to break-in the motor. Sorry for my lousy English if I can't express myself correctly.


Anyway, here is my story.

Before I started the engine, I took it apart and cleaned it really good. Put some after-run oil and then put them back together. I riched up the high speed needle for 2 turns, and raised the idle a bit. I also install a Novarossi #5 glow plug. Then, I started the engine. It took me some time to get the engine started and idle properly. It was all because I riched up the top and the idle was not open up enough. The piston stuck at the TDC couple times when I first fried to start up the enigne. I just used the flat head screw driver to turn the flywheel over to bring the piston down to the BDC.

For the first quarter of fuel, I used Trinity 16% and followed the instruction to do the heat-cycles on the starter box. After 8 heat-cycles (about 5 tanks), I ran the car on the track slowly and kept my eyes on the temperature. I never let it ran over 180F. in fact, when it idled, the temp would go up to 180F. but when I applied full throttle and ran it for couple laps and brought it back to check the temp, it was only 160F. I was running the car without the shell. I did not changed the needle settings during the 1st quarter of fuel.

After the first quarter of Trinity 16% fuel, I switched to O'Donnell 20% and started to lean out the top end abit. I kept the temp under 190F for the 1st quarter of the O'Donnell fuel. I cooled down the engine between tanks and never let the engine ran out of gas. I left some fuel in the take and stopped the engine by touching the flywheel. It took me whole afternoon to finish the 2nd quarter of fuel.

The 2nd quarter of the O'Donnel fuel, I lenned the engine up to 200F. When the tank was almost empty, the temp would go up abit. That's normal I guessed because the back-pressure from the pipe was less due to the tank was almost empty. Still, I cooled down the engine between tanks. I tried the test (take out the glow plug and turn the flywheel by hand), it was still tight when the engine was still HOT. So far, I already had 3 quarters through (1 qt of Trinity 16% and 2 qt of O'Donnell 20%).

It all started from The 3rd quarter of the O'Donnel fuel. Without touching the needle settings, the engine started to run cooler and cooler each tank. I guessed it was because the engine had almost done the break-in process (less friction between P/S.) So I leaned the top and made sure the engine was running around 210F. The engine was running rich as I could tell. Even with full-throttle, it sounded like a 4-stroke engine. But it ran faster then before. I still let it cool down between tanks and did the TEST. Compared to the brand new D5, the D3's P/S was not that tight. I took the engine apart again. Just want to make sure everything was fine. What I found out was the conrod had worn out a bit because I could feel the play when the conrod was attached to the crank pin. As for the crank pin, I measured it. The difference between top-bottom and left-right was 0.02mm. So I decided to change the conrod right now. Although the wrist pin was fine, I changed it, too. I kept the used conrod and wrist pin as spare. Maybe they could be used in the D5 when breaking-in it.

Last week, I finished the 4th quarter of the O'Donnell fuel. I leaned the bottom and the top. I also lowered the idle to match up the bottom needle setting. I ran the engine around 220F. As I can tell so far, this baby has lots of torque compared to my Novarossi RS12S1. Since I did not race-tune the engine, I did not know its top end. I did the TEST again. Now I'm sure it is fully broken-in. I was impressed by the performance of the STS D3. Couldn't wait to lean it out more and see its potential.

I just added one 0.1mm head shim and changed glow plug to Novarossi #7 because I'm going to use 30% fuel. I'll post more later during this week.
By the way, Dino told me that he has just found out the reason why the crank pin would break... it was all because the high speed needle was set too lean. For more detail... let Dino share his experience....

Last edited by wangcc61; 03-23-2004 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 03-23-2004, 01:15 PM   #470
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Default wangcc61

hey hows it going wangcc61, I was wondering how exactly, step by step is the heat-cycle process to be completed?

thanks Jason
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Old 03-23-2004, 01:22 PM   #471
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You know what? out of all the people I spoke to, nobosy ever heard of polishing the piston and sleeve and think it's a really bad idea. Now, I don't have the time, patience or money to go thru a whole gallon of fuel, but if that's what it takes, I'll take that into consideration. And while a p/s set is inexpensive, I don't want to run and buy one off the break because I screwed something up polishing it in the first place. Anybody have any more input on this?
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Old 03-23-2004, 01:45 PM   #472
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Quote:
Originally posted by spenzalii
You know what? out of all the people I spoke to, nobosy ever heard of polishing the piston and sleeve and think it's a really bad idea. Now, I don't have the time, patience or money to go thru a whole gallon of fuel, but if that's what it takes, I'll take that into consideration. And while a p/s set is inexpensive, I don't want to run and buy one off the break because I screwed something up polishing it in the first place. Anybody have any more input on this?
It's not called polishing but lapping and it is a great way to shorten break in time and reduce stress on the rod and crankshaft, IF IT IS DONE CORRECTLY!!!!
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Old 03-23-2004, 01:51 PM   #473
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I could understand that in theory, but have never seen it in practice. So, assuming I were to try it, would I use the polish on teh whole sleve, or just near the top where the pinch would be the tightest?
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Old 03-23-2004, 10:30 PM   #474
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So do all these STS engines go through a rod in break in er what? Does anyone use a standard head button in the D5, and what plug to use?
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Old 03-23-2004, 10:51 PM   #475
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Default Modded D3

how many of you guys have had your D3's modded? I will be getting a D3 in the next couple of weeks, so is it worth it or necessary to get it modded?

thanks Jason
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:45 AM   #476
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Default Re: wangcc61

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
hey hows it going wangcc61, I was wondering how exactly, step by step is the heat-cycle process to be completed?
thanks Jason
In fact, I just followed the instruction that came with the engine. I started the engine, and let it idle. In the meantime, I monitored the temperature. When it went up to 170F, I shut it down and make sure the piston is at the bottom dead center. To me, it took almost half a tank to reach 170F. Then, let the engine cooled down (under 100F.) Repeat this process for another 7 times...
This was how I did the heat-cycles. Hope it helps.
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Old 03-24-2004, 02:37 AM   #477
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
It's not called polishing but lapping and it is a great way to shorten break in time and reduce stress on the rod and crankshaft, IF IT IS DONE CORRECTLY!!!!
Another way to shorten the break in time is to do the "Cold breakin". I just did it to my D5. Here is how to do it.

Start the engine and make sure the idle is stable. Then, ruch up the high speed needle a quarter turn at a time. Listen to the RPM. If it drops, then, open the throttle. BECAREFUL!!!! Don't let the RPM go very high!!! The lower RPM you can get, the shorter break in time is needed. Repeat the "Rich up the top, then open the throttle." process until the throttle is fully opened. Right now, you should have a low RPM (a little bit higher than normal idling RPM is O.K.) but the throttle is fully opened. The engine sounds louder than normal idling and the RPM is not stable. Smoke and unburnt fule keep coming out of the pipe. Run the engine like this for the 1st tank. You can now also raise the idle screw a bit in order to remain a steady idle when the throttle is closed. Warning!!! before you run out of the 1st tank of fuel, you need to close the throttle and let the engine return to its normal idle RPM. Then, you can open lid and refill the fuel. If you forget to close the throttle before you open the lid, your engine's RPM would go really high and could damage the P/S and conrod. You only need to do the "Cold Breakin" for 2 or 3 tanks of fuel. I know this method would put stress on the conrod and crank pin but it could shorten the break in time without damage the P/S. STS does suggest to replace the conrod right after broken-in. For $15, the conrod is much cheaper than Novarossi's. So, if you are in a hurry, you can try the cold breakin method. But remember, DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK!!!

I did the cold breakin for 3 tanks on my D5. The result is pretty good. No damage to the conrod or P/S. Now the P/S are not that tight as they were brand new. I just reset the needle back to factory settings. Next time, I'm going to run the car at the track and start to lean the top abit. I'll post the result later on.
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Old 03-24-2004, 03:02 AM   #478
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Default Re: Modded D3

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
how many of you guys have had your D3's modded? I will be getting a D3 in the next couple of weeks, so is it worth it or necessary to get it modded?
thanks Jason
From my experience with the RS3, the stock engine has lots of bottom end, but not enough top end for my taste. If you can port the exhaust port a little bit or have someone to do the job, you can have more top end by modifying the exhaust port. But the trade off is losing the bottom end a bit. What I did after the porting was to change the 1st gear ratio. Higher the ratio for the 1st gear, so you will have the same acceleration but more top speed.

Projectzen.net sells the modded D3 & D5. Contact Geoff for more info. I currently have both modded D3 & D5 and have just done the break-in to D3. Compared to my RS3, the modded D3 has more power. Believe me, it worth the money.
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Old 03-24-2004, 10:19 AM   #479
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wangcc61: can you post some pics of the projectzen mods to the D3?

thanks Jason
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Old 03-24-2004, 11:29 AM   #480
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Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
wangcc61: can you post some pics of the projectzen mods to the D3?

thanks Jason
The projectzen's motors look the same as stock ones from outside. But they modify the crank shaft & sleeve.
Sorry Jason, the motors are in my cars now. I don't wanna take them out right now. Maybe next week after the Airtronics race, I'll check the motors.
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