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Old 07-20-2006, 06:22 PM   #2356
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1. As stated from Dino he reccomends to replace the con-rod after break-in.

2. Dependant on how powerful your starter box is , you might not have to heat it at all. But its a good way to help reduce some stress on the con-rod.

3. It can help but its not completely neccessary. Byrons is good choice of fuel though.

4. Skyline VR12 is a great pipe and I hear it works great with a lot of motors. Pro-Hobby is about to get some of these pipes, their order went out today. So if you wait a few days they can cut you a deal on that along with con-rod.

Take care,
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Old 07-20-2006, 06:47 PM   #2357
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Ok, thanks for all the info.
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:20 PM   #2358
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Just on the conrod - Yes its recommended but I have not replaced it after break in. I ensure I preheat the engine good before attempting to start. This reduces pinch and one would assume reduces stress/wear on the conrod during break in.

Last time I checked conrod (about a month ago) it looked like itl had heaps of life left in it I do have a spare though for when it does need replacement.
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:29 AM   #2359
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after break in of the d3r, I just checked the conrod and it did not seem to need a replacement at that time. I ran the vr12 pipe with the d3r and dx12 with very good results. Plus, during break in....I did not preheat my engine and just never killed the engine through at least 4 tanks.
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:39 AM   #2360
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Just a note. The con-rod may look good at the bearing. But from what I can recall Dino spoke about stress to the con-rod thats unseen during all the tight running during break-in of these motors specifically.

He said that simply the motor is like a pet you raise and you work hard to raise it right. After its ready he said you want to replace this so it can run it can have a full life.

Ill try to copy and paste what he said when I find it rather than retype it from memory. But thats about right.
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Old 07-23-2006, 04:31 AM   #2361
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originally by Dino: copy & paste:

The new sleeve and piston set is very tight. It will let the rod have to take a very big stress during breaking in. And make the bushing worn fast even break if you make the rpm too high. So don't make the rpm too high when the sleeve and piston still tight. The most important thing is let everybody know that when the break-in process through. Then they just know when they can lean it to their heart's content.

We have ever changed the conrods production-line to make the bushing more thicker. So all the newest Dragon have upgraded conrods. I prefer to let every customer know what can be happened rather than hide them. Maybe my way make you worry. But to my consumer viewpoint(I'm still a customer to other manufactories ),I rather know every truth if they can tell me in advance.

Read the Instruction Manual,

...

I have a special way to check the break-in. Put a white tissue outside of the tail pipe. Let the smoke spray on it and open the throttle a bit. If you can't find any impurity but only oil,that means your engine is clean and no more fine metal particles out.

After break-in process,I will take apart it thorough. First I will check the con. rod bushings and pins. If there is a play,I will replace with new parts. Then I will check the bearing and crankpin. If there is any play,I prefer to spend some money to replace with new parts. I don't want to bet with full engine life and guess it still ok. In my opinion,I spend valuable time to run it a engine or you can say I bring it up like a pet. He/she have to work hard for me,I don't want he/she feel any uncomfortable. Have you ever run with a over-size shoes? Yes,it dose uncomfortable and maybe you will fall down.


Gentleman!~~Start your engine!~~

hope that helps!
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:24 AM   #2362
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I was wondering if anyone knows the difference between the button head for a DR5 part #120404T and part #120145T. I didn't know if all of the turbo button heads are interchangable through out all of the .12 models. I need to replace my old head because I cross threaded it, opps! Please help.

Thanks
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:57 PM   #2363
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i have an RS12 turbo in my v1rr. got it ages ago lol.


anyhow, i replaced the TURBO head to non-turbo. i used this with a novarossi non-turbo head. fits perfectly
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Old 07-23-2006, 02:40 PM   #2364
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Ok thanks, I just ordered the proper head from Project Zen. All I can say is wow, about their service - I recieved a quick email response, on a Sunday, and I already have it ordered! Talk about dedication.

Keith
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Old 07-23-2006, 03:01 PM   #2365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksj44
Ok thanks, I just ordered the proper head from Project Zen. All I can say is wow, about their service - I recieved a quick email response, on a Sunday, and I already have it ordered! Talk about dedication.

Keith
have a web page for them? I have some issures with a sts motor also.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:03 PM   #2366
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Thanks for all the replies about the con-rod. I ordered one just so i have one. I will probably replace it after the first half-gallon just to be safe.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:35 PM   #2367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushdude
Thanks for all the replies about the con-rod. I ordered one just so i have one. I will probably replace it after the first half-gallon just to be safe.
yes, great. hope ur experience with STS is a satisfying one.
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:38 PM   #2368
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projectzen.net - Hope this helps.

Keith
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:11 AM   #2369
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I got my STS D3R a few days ago, broke it in, and yesterday ran the first race with it and ended up third in the final, qualified as third, second and second.

So far, the engine's performance seems OK. It does not rev very fast, but it has a fair amount power over its entire RPM range. The carb is easy to tune, except during the break-in period. The sound of the engine (I'm using it with an old Mega exhaust) is OK too and it doesn't sound raw or weird in any other way. The speed should still go up a bit when the engine has about 2 litres through it; it has been better every tank so far. I tuned it for good performance yesterday and the running temperature was about 110 degrees celcius.

One thing I'm less satisfied with though, is the internal finish of the engine parts. It all looks cheap, and it's clearly a class less well produced than both my Mega ZX12 and my old NovaMega SX12RT. The engine runs well now, but I'm not entirely sure about its longevity. Only time will tell though...

On the outside, the engine looks great. The cooling head on it is enormous. The feeling of things is right and when turning the engine by hand everything feels smooth with plenty of compression and after running in, just a little pinch near TDC.



If people are interested, I can post some comparison shots of the insides of the three engines I have...
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:21 AM   #2370
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What fuel and % are you running. What glow-plug. I got some suggestions for you if you want more power from your motor.
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