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Old 12-20-2003, 09:15 AM   #31
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I guess I will haul a 55 gallon drum to Florida
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Old 12-20-2003, 10:06 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
I guess I will haul a 55 gallon drum to Florida
55Gallon drum??? How much fuel you want to blend?
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Old 12-20-2003, 10:29 AM   #33
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It's cheaper when you buy big containers

Since me and a buddy run 8th scale buggies, we buy a lot of fuel, so I guess I'll make a bit more...

I can store the stuff in our lab (sometimes it's good to be the boss ) and blend whatwever I need....
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Old 12-20-2003, 11:04 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
It's cheaper when you buy big containers

Since me and a buddy run 8th scale buggies, we buy a lot of fuel, so I guess I'll make a bit more...

I can store the stuff in our lab (sometimes it's good to be the boss ) and blend whatwever I need....
Hahaha!... Ok. Let me know if you want to blend and experiment... BTW: Those oil values are a little low for off-road engines (You've been warned. ).
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Old 12-20-2003, 12:32 PM   #35
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I'll blend your practice formula (30% of course)

and a quali/race formula with a tad more nitro and 12%oil, how's that?
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Old 12-20-2003, 01:12 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
I'll blend your practice formula (30% of course)

and a quali/race formula with a tad more nitro and 12%oil, how's that?
Worhts the try to do it some at 30% with a 10 or 11% of oil and see if fits for your expectations.

On Off-Road, since you're traction limited (thus HP limited), probably you will be better a litlle less of Nitro maintaining a 12% of oil. Check temperatures and do some small doses to try how mix works better for you. (try varying the Castor/Synth percentages).
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Old 12-20-2003, 04:13 PM   #37
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Default A word of warning...

Some warnings regarding high nitro content and oils (specially Castor oils).

1. With high Nitro contents 30% and upper and if the fuel contains much castor. If remains many time without being used and moved, castor oil can separate and settle on different layers, so before using fuels with high content of Nitro, shake it very well to help to mix well all the components. This applies to any fuel.

2. What's the way of getting more power without being a cheater in the Nitro content? Easy... put less oil.

On last words, was heard of some teams using very small quantities of oil... up to a 4% of oil. Less oil on the combustion chamber means more Metanol and Nitro, so more power, but remember that less oil makes more wear, so is a thing to remember... Did some tests and the lowest oil content for a Nova P/S without exagerated wear and needing to change P/S each few tanks is a 8%. Under this you're pushing too much the envelope and things start to wear at a fast rate (going at 8% oil, probably you can do 2 or 2.5 gallons to your P/S maximum 3).

Some places, enforce Nitro limits with a thing called Nitromax. This device wrongly as many people thinks, doesn't measure Nitro content, measures density. There's a way to put more nitro and circumvent it, will not tell it all, but with some ideas from chemistry and the densities, you can join all the puzzle.

- Nitro 1.14
- Synthetic Oil 1.02
- Castor Oil 0.96
- Methanol 0.78

Nominal density for a 16% mix: 0.87, nominal density for 25% nitro: 0.91 over these densities, fuel is deemed illegal, so you're warned.
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Old 12-20-2003, 05:00 PM   #38
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Corse,

we don't have nitro restrictions here in the US and more and more people are running up to 40% now with good results.

I tried 35% O'Donell once and it was great...
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Old 12-20-2003, 08:26 PM   #39
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Hey guys I have just put a new P/S in my JP S3 and I have some fuel for run-in but it has been sitting around for about 2 months, can I still use this fuel.

It has:
6%Castor
6%Synthetic
and has 16% nitro.
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Old 12-20-2003, 10:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by MTX-3 Kid
Hey guys I have just put a new P/S in my JP S3 and I have some fuel for run-in but it has been sitting around for about 2 months, can I still use this fuel.
Yep, you can use it ever the fuel bottle has been closed correctly, been stored on a cool, dry and dark place (specially if it comes in a plastic translucid container). 2 Months isn't soo much time to consider discarding the fuel.

If has been stored in the correct way, should be valid.
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Old 12-21-2003, 02:19 AM   #41
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Ok thanks Corse-R that saves me a bundle of money.
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Old 01-01-2004, 12:15 AM   #42
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stefan

Heres your raw fuel hook up, Barnett GA. close to home for you
look under specialty fuels for your Nitro and Methanol

Synthetic Oils: Union Carbide LB-625 synthetic (known as CPO77, FHS Gold, etc. Purpose designed for our applications, specifically high nitro blending above 50%) This is the shit, hard to find usually have to buy a 55 gallon drum. However you can buy it in gallons from Morgan Fuels.
Non Synthetic Oils: Any other AA grade castor is fine.

Other additives I am aware of I won't discuss for obvious reasons. Not that I havent experimented with them its just that many of them are hazardous.

There are 2 kinds of nitro, nitropropane and nitromethane Angus produces Nitromethane, Most Nitropropane is imported, I preferred Nitropropane when I was using it as I felt in our applications it made better midrange torque and horsepower. However I think importation to the US has fallen off in recent years.

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/index2....B7C881B49A8D63

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Last edited by Motorman; 01-01-2004 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 01-01-2004, 05:20 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Synthetic Oils: Union Carbide LB-625 synthetic (known as CPO77, FHS Gold, etc. Purpose designed for our applications, specifically high nitro blending above 50%) This is the shit, hard to find usually have to buy a 55 gallon drum. However you can buy it in gallons from Morgan Fuels.
Dennis, tried to find UCON LB625 here, but seems that isn't imported into this side of the pond (minimum inquiry: 2400Kg/Year). Talking with a Dow guy and confirming with a friend who works on a petrochemical we found another suitable oil (but is based on Poliglycols):

Synalox 100-85-B

Burns very fine and clean, haven't tried LB625 (I cannot burn 2400Kg of oil each year).
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Old 01-01-2004, 08:52 AM   #44
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Hi Dennis,

thanks for the info, but I have mostly everything in house already.

Here is what I got, let me know if this will work in your opinion.

Klotz Benol castor oil
Klotz Techniplate
99.98% Nitromethane (from a drag racing supplier)
99.95% Methanol

About the additives, could you probably give me some pointers via PM, I'm a chemist and have no problem getting or handling haz. mat.

We are using rust inhibitors in paint formulation and I was thinking of using some in my fuel. Will make some tests and see how it works.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
stefan

Heres your raw fuel hook up, Barnett GA. close to home for you
look under specialty fuels for your Nitro and Methanol

Synthetic Oils: Union Carbide LB-625 synthetic (known as CPO77, FHS Gold, etc. Purpose designed for our applications, specifically high nitro blending above 50%) This is the shit, hard to find usually have to buy a 55 gallon drum. However you can buy it in gallons from Morgan Fuels.
Non Synthetic Oils: Any other AA grade castor is fine.

Other additives I am aware of I won't discuss for obvious reasons. Not that I havent experimented with them its just that many of them are hazardous.

There are 2 kinds of nitro, nitropropane and nitromethane Angus produces Nitromethane, Most Nitropropane is imported, I preferred Nitropropane when I was using it as I felt in our applications it made better midrange torque and horsepower. However I think importation to the US has fallen off in recent years.

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/index2....B7C881B49A8D63

Your welcome
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Old 01-01-2004, 10:02 AM   #45
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Yes all of those products will work fine I ike KLotz products. I especially like the way techniplate smells. LOL
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