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Old 12-11-2007, 11:48 PM   #1
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Default Engine Tuning (Picco based vs Nova based)

Well guys, I really need your help. Im thinking of getting a JLR red dot, but I know nothing of setting picco engines. I had a mega picco a while ago but had to many tuning problems that I couldnt find a line between rich and lean I got frustrated and sold it. I have been with TZs since then and I got a Murnan Nova SCT in reserve. I am thinking of getting this picco engine as club racing and leave the murnan for when I travel to the US on big big tracks. My question is, what is the difference between setting a Picco engine and a Nova engine???

Other thing I have thought, is do what people used to do when Mega piccos went out... they changed the carb for a nova carb and it tuned like a nova. But if im not mistaking, some claimed it lost its power curve...

Anyways guys... any kind of input and experience is appreciated...
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:26 AM   #2
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Default Picco vs Nova Tuning

1) Run the 2607 pipe. End of story on the pipe.
2) Gear the car up!(sometimes both 1 tooth on first and 2nd gear)
3) Picco's like to be run abit rich on the bottom end. There should always be smoke coming out of the pipe upon acceleration, and the engine will load up when it idles for five or six seconds. One blip of the throttle and it should clear out fine.
4) With a rich bottom end tune the engine for top speed with the HSN first. Once the chassis and engine are fully saturated with heat and your happy with the power and speed you can lean the bottom end some. Your car should be coming into the pits and idle down within afew seconds.
5) If the motor leans bogs.........and the motor temps are okay..........try richening the bottom end first. Most people who ahve experienced lean bog usaully do after three or four minutes into a qualifier or warm up. I know this is contrary to what most people do...... but try richening the bottom end an hour or two and see if lean bogs goes away.

6) Once you find the position where you want the carby located for your throttle linkage I will use a small amount of red RTV on the carb base where it goes into the block. Then tighten the cinch bolt.......and it should be good to go.
7) Make sure the cinch bolt tightens the carb onto the block tightly. In some cases you may have to sand a small amount of the cinch nut(the non-threaded part)
8) Don't overtighten the throttle linkage onto the carb. You don't want to crush or distort the low end needle housing.
9) If you have a problem with air leaks..........check the low speed and high speed needle o-rings to see if there torn.

...........this is a whole list of stuff..........just some of the checkpoints for potential problems.........I'm not saying any of these will happen..... but just checkpoints.
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:54 AM   #3
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJ View Post
1) Run the 2607 pipe. End of story on the pipe.
2) Gear the car up!(sometimes both 1 tooth on first and 2nd gear)
3) Picco's like to be run abit rich on the bottom end. There should always be smoke coming out of the pipe upon acceleration, and the engine will load up when it idles for five or six seconds. One blip of the throttle and it should clear out fine.
4) With a rich bottom end tune the engine for top speed with the HSN first. Once the chassis and engine are fully saturated with heat and your happy with the power and speed you can lean the bottom end some. Your car should be coming into the pits and idle down within afew seconds.
5) If the motor leans bogs.........and the motor temps are okay..........try richening the bottom end first. Most people who ahve experienced lean bog usaully do after three or four minutes into a qualifier or warm up. I know this is contrary to what most people do...... but try richening the bottom end an hour or two and see if lean bogs goes away.

6) Once you find the position where you want the carby located for your throttle linkage I will use a small amount of red RTV on the carb base where it goes into the block. Then tighten the cinch bolt.......and it should be good to go.
7) Make sure the cinch bolt tightens the carb onto the block tightly. In some cases you may have to sand a small amount of the cinch nut(the non-threaded part)
8) Don't overtighten the throttle linkage onto the carb. You don't want to crush or distort the low end needle housing.
9) If you have a problem with air leaks..........check the low speed and high speed needle o-rings to see if there torn.

...........this is a whole list of stuff..........just some of the checkpoints for potential problems.........I'm not saying any of these will happen..... but just checkpoints.
Thanks for your input...

What about sirio??? are do they tune like Piccos?
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Old 12-17-2007, 06:40 PM   #4
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJ View Post
1) Run the 2607 pipe. End of story on the pipe.
2) Gear the car up!(sometimes both 1 tooth on first and 2nd gear)
3) Picco's like to be run abit rich on the bottom end. There should always be smoke coming out of the pipe upon acceleration, and the engine will load up when it idles for five or six seconds. One blip of the throttle and it should clear out fine.
4) With a rich bottom end tune the engine for top speed with the HSN first. Once the chassis and engine are fully saturated with heat and your happy with the power and speed you can lean the bottom end some. Your car should be coming into the pits and idle down within afew seconds.
5) If the motor leans bogs.........and the motor temps are okay..........try richening the bottom end first. Most people who ahve experienced lean bog usaully do after three or four minutes into a qualifier or warm up. I know this is contrary to what most people do...... but try richening the bottom end an hour or two and see if lean bogs goes away.

6) Once you find the position where you want the carby located for your throttle linkage I will use a small amount of red RTV on the carb base where it goes into the block. Then tighten the cinch bolt.......and it should be good to go.
7) Make sure the cinch bolt tightens the carb onto the block tightly. In some cases you may have to sand a small amount of the cinch nut(the non-threaded part)
8) Don't overtighten the throttle linkage onto the carb. You don't want to crush or distort the low end needle housing.
9) If you have a problem with air leaks..........check the low speed and high speed needle o-rings to see if there torn.

...........this is a whole list of stuff..........just some of the checkpoints for potential problems.........I'm not saying any of these will happen..... but just checkpoints.
Very well explained, Good Job!
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:08 PM   #5
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Thank you guys, i found this very helpful for my JLR... I am now on top of the run on issues now by the looks of things.

Damn rain stopped me doing more tanks
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Old 12-24-2007, 07:30 PM   #6
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6) Once you find the position where you want the carby located for your throttle linkage I will use a small amount of red RTV on the carb base where it goes into the block. Then tighten the cinch bolt.......and it should be good to go.

Ray
do I have to put the seal in the carb base on the o-ring and then place in the engine block and tighten? Or after engine is ready in the neck and screw?
I didn't understand
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Old 12-25-2007, 05:56 AM   #7
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Default Red RTV

Put the RTV on the base of the carb before putting it into the block. Make sure of where the carb needs to be before using the RTV. Also use just a tiny bit of the rtv, and you don't need to coat the entire piece that goes into the block. Just a small about around the carb base is fine.
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