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-   -   Did I hurt my motor? (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone/179322-did-i-hurt-my-motor.html)

shawn17 08-30-2007 09:45 AM

Did I hurt my motor?
 
I took my Aftershock mud running about a week ago. It ran fine but after a while it died out. I had thought that it ran out of fuel so I just took it back to the car and went home. Last night I took the motor apart and noticed that there was a little surface rust on the crank. I was just wandering if I have hurt my motor any:cry: Here's a few pic's, I had tried to polish the rust off before I took the pic's so a little of it is gone.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...olstuff089.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...olstuff076.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...olstuff095.jpg

quietstorm76 08-30-2007 07:30 PM

Need more info. Did you put fuel in it and try to start it? Check the plug? The rust could be from not using after run oil or you got water in the engine.

shawn17 08-30-2007 09:58 PM


Originally Posted by quietstorm76 (Post 3630094)
Need more info. Did you put fuel in it and try to start it? Check the plug? The rust could be from not using after run oil or you got water in the engine.

I have not ran it since that day, and the plug look's great.

PROVK 08-30-2007 10:21 PM

You engine looks A1 mate

bxpitbull 08-31-2007 12:41 AM

6000 grit sandpaper to get the rust out. Put the engine back together,use some silicon sealant at the bottom of the heatsink and at the backplate. Double spring on your manifold. Be sure to change the glow plug and have at it.

PROVK 08-31-2007 02:10 AM


Originally Posted by bxpitbull (Post 3630741)
6000 grit sandpaper to get the rust out. Put the engine back together,use some silicon sealant at the bottom of the heatsink and at the backplate. Double spring on your manifold. Be sure to change the glow plug and have at it.

1.Those rust spots dont warrent sanding back
2. Why use silicon, replace O rings if necessary

bxpitbull 08-31-2007 04:50 AM


Originally Posted by PROVK (Post 3630817)
1.Those rust spots dont warrent sanding back
2. Why use silicon, replace O rings if necessary

He said he used oil and those rust spots are whats left. 6000 grit is very fine and wont scratch, just work the surface where the rust is. Why replace the o-rings? He didnt say he was flaming out or going from rich to lean. He is mud bogging. The silicon at the bottom of the heatsink and at the back plate is to give it an additional seal,preventing water from seaping in and any air from escaping....I think I have seen a pro or two or a THOUSAND do this:eek::batman: What do o-rings have to do with anything? He didnt say he had carb problems:confused:

duneland 08-31-2007 05:55 AM

Silicone at the base of the Heatsink? Sounds nuts to me. The combustion chamber is sealed by the head gaskets/shims & proper torque of the head bolts. If those loosened & leaked, the only purpose the silicone could have, would be to mask the problem temporarily. It could not possibly contain the combustion pressures.
The slight surface rust on the counterweight, is nothing to worry about. Just be carefull not to nick the crank pin when cleaning up the rust.
Engine may have died from getting the air filter clogged or soaked. The rust on the crank, probably had nothing to do with your mud bogging.

bxpitbull 08-31-2007 10:39 PM


Originally Posted by duneland (Post 3631083)
Silicone at the base of the Heatsink? Sounds nuts to me. The combustion chamber is sealed by the head gaskets/shims & proper torque of the head bolts. If those loosened & leaked, the only purpose the silicone could have, would be to mask the problem temporarily. It could not possibly contain the combustion pressures.
The slight surface rust on the counterweight, is nothing to worry about. Just be carefull not to nick the crank pin when cleaning up the rust.
Engine may have died from getting the air filter clogged or soaked. The rust on the crank, probably had nothing to do with your mud bogging.

Sounds nuts? He bolts on the head in the criss cross pattern and to ensure the seal is absolute, he applies a light coat of silicon around the bottom......that sounds nuts? If he is thrashing, the silicon will not mask a problem, but keep a seal long enough IN CASE the bolts loosen. If the bolts do loosen, imagine the gook and grime that could get inside WITHOUT the silicon? It wont act as an adhesive if the bolts loosen anyways, and the engine wont hold the tune as well. Doing a check, he might notice the break in the seal. And, the purpose of the silicon is to provide an additional seal, not stop rust. In that case, why do so many pros silicon seal the back plate????? I think I read it somewhere to give a better seal....oh, er, um uh, thats what I thought.

rcfoolz 08-31-2007 11:04 PM

Wow....a little advice is all that they guy wanted. I race onroad and I use "Airseal" to seal the engine EVERY TIME I take an engine apart and put it together. Ever heard...and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? The silocon around the head, or a silicon O-ring works well to keep the dirt out of the engine when you pull it apart too.

I read this in another post, thought I would share it:

I stopped posting on RCtech for a while because no matter what you do, thier is somebody wanting to question what you do, try to make you look stupid, or just don't understand the point your trying to make. What works for one person, doesn't mean it won't work for another. If you look through rctech, you will see that about 90% of the threads, somebody is trying to discredit what one person or another is doing. If those who think that they know best, would post what they do, instead of questioning what others do, maybe, just maybe, they would be helpful instead of confusing the individual that is looking for advice.

picco007 09-01-2007 06:46 AM


Originally Posted by rcfoolz (Post 3633119)
Wow....a little advice is all that they guy wanted. I race onroad and I use "Airseal" to seal the engine EVERY TIME I take an engine apart and put it together. Ever heard...and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? The silocon around the head, or a silicon O-ring works well to keep the dirt out of the engine when you pull it apart too.

I read this in another post, thought I would share it:

I stopped posting on RCtech for a while because no matter what you do, thier is somebody wanting to question what you do, try to make you look stupid, or just don't understand the point your trying to make. What works for one person, doesn't mean it won't work for another. If you look through rctech, you will see that about 90% of the threads, somebody is trying to discredit what one person or another is doing. If those who think that they know best, would post what they do, instead of questioning what others do, maybe, just maybe, they would be helpful instead of confusing the individual that is looking for advice.



Amen! The silicone thing is right on!

bxpitbull 09-01-2007 10:05 AM

rcfoolz, picco, thanks fellas. Airseal, whats its base?

rcfoolz 09-01-2007 11:48 AM


Originally Posted by bxpitbull (Post 3633830)
rcfoolz, picco, thanks fellas. Airseal, whats its base?

Not totaly sure, silocon-latex-rubber?

duneland 09-02-2007 09:49 AM

Didn't mean to get anyone upset. Like mentioned earlier, a guy wanted some help, and most suggestions were good ones.
Some actions (while well intentioned) are a bit over the top, or even counterproductive.
I am not making any personal attacks, and certainly, differing opinions should not be reason to stop posting.
Silicone at the base of the heatsink/head, will not contain combustion pressure. No point to this practice. If you believe otherwise, then by all means go for it!

duneland 09-02-2007 09:52 AM

I think Airseal is a silicone based product. Racers Choice was the manufacturer, but I cannot find it in my cataloques anymore. Seems to be discontinued. Perhaps someone else knows where it can be obtained. In the meantime, high temp silicone rtv is a suitable substitute. The Airseal was thinner and easier to apply though.


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