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Murnan Modified Motors

Old 04-07-2008, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ctsieber
Bugnet,

I will say this, the +12 took alot more break in then any other motor I've owned. So expect afew more tanks for break in.

My MM 353 is just in their 18 fuel tank, still with stock plug C5 and 2630, going 6+min on local tight but not really small track (14~16s/lap) full of 180 turns, I think I should go to 2601 pipe and get more fuel mileage and torque, and try not to loose awesome top-end rpms, and after more two tanks I would change to C6 or C7 plug too.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:31 AM
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Ran my Murnan Plus 12 with a Max 2607 pipe for the first time on the track yesterday. Saying I was impressed wouldn't be saying enough. The motor has bottom end like i've never seen. Running 38 tires and a conservative clutch setting, if I squeezed the trigger, the tires were spinning all over the place. The motor pulls down the big straight at 301 raceway with no problem at all. And runtime is amazing. Didn't check it but i'm sure it's over 5min. I kept thinking, "Man, when will it run out?"

Incredible. Thanks Murnan.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:43 AM
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What is the recommend manifold and pipe combo for the RB R3? It will be going in a NT1 fairly large track 180-220ft straight. Also who has them in stock need to order asap....Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:56 AM
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Grinder, could tell us which Temp Gun you recommend?

Thanks

JEFF
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:14 PM
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Grinder, how do you know when a rear ceramic bearing is bad? I have a Murnan +12sct that make a noise a little louder than the exhaust at idle. I see nothing wrong with the p/s/r and it will idle through a full tank without cutting off. The front bearing has a little slop side to side but rolls smooth. The rear ceramic bearing looks ok and feels smooth when spinning the crank by hand mostly but there is a slight rough spot every once in awhile. Should I replace them with the new part # bearings in the 353? Are they any better designed? Thanks for your time and input.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:29 PM
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Did you check the thrust and the centax bearings?
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rankev11
Grinder, how do you know when a rear ceramic bearing is bad? I have a Murnan +12sct that make a noise a little louder than the exhaust at idle. I see nothing wrong with the p/s/r and it will idle through a full tank without cutting off. The front bearing has a little slop side to side but rolls smooth. The rear ceramic bearing looks ok and feels smooth when spinning the crank by hand mostly but there is a slight rough spot every once in awhile. Should I replace them with the new part # bearings in the 353? Are they any better designed? Thanks for your time and input.
If it sounds like you have chain drive car then its the bearing.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:18 PM
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Sorry, forgot to say it was on the break-in bench. I figure it is a bearing but I am trying to eliminate on or the other since the rear is about $100 to replace. This is my first engine with ceramic bearing so I was just wondering how quickly they go bad. I may just replace the front and put it back together and see if it still makes the noise.
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rankev11
Sorry, forgot to say it was on the break-in bench. I figure it is a bearing but I am trying to eliminate on or the other since the rear is about $100 to replace. This is my first engine with ceramic bearing so I was just wondering how quickly they go bad. I may just replace the front and put it back together and see if it still makes the noise.
The engine may sound like metal to metal a little when it is brand new. After the engine gets warmed up does it still make that sound? It should not. There should not be a rough spot either. Keep me updated.
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:49 AM
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Sorry again, I forgot to include this engine is about a season old with good pinch. I bought it off a fellow racer who just stopped running it because it started making the noise. I was just wondering how to figure out if it is a rear or front bearing that has gone bad. Yes it stills makes the noise at temp. Is there any signs to see by looking at a ceramic to show it has gone bad??
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:14 AM
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I wouldn't just replace the front bearing. Everytime I've had one that needed replaced the other wasn't far behind. Save yourself a headache, and do both.
Here's what I will use when my +12's are ready

http://www.murnanmodified.com/produc...roducts_id=229

Originally Posted by rankev11
Sorry, forgot to say it was on the break-in bench. I figure it is a bearing but I am trying to eliminate on or the other since the rear is about $100 to replace. This is my first engine with ceramic bearing so I was just wondering how quickly they go bad. I may just replace the front and put it back together and see if it still makes the noise.
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:46 PM
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Gringer; What would be the performance advantages/disavantages of the Reddot Evo3 with the Skyline VR12+ and the Picco 2607 pipes?
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:11 AM
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Great job for the Murnan team and the racers that use Murnan products.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:06 AM
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Grinder, why is the sky blue
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:58 AM
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Thanks Uriah for the great horsepower this weekend at the U.S. Open in Kissimmee! I had one of the fastest cars down the back straight with great bottom end as well. The MM 12+ is a great motor! I can't wait to run it again at the Nationals in Ft. Myers!
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