Team Orion clutch setup.
 

To the guys running the CRF in Mugens and not using the CRF clutch set.Please post your clutch setups that are working for you or do you have to buy the CRF clutch set.
Setup advice is welcome.

GET THE CRF CLUTCH SET
 

You hve to hve their clutch setup,one the guys i raced with had a mugen with the CRF motor, he found out very fast the stock clutch didnt work.This the motor i run here in Fla.An i got test a MurnanMod CRF,this my winternats motor i will hve 2 ready for battle. :nod: :nod: :nod: :nod: :sneaky:

Thanks ,so I guess my buddy needs a CRF clutch then. :(

Team Orion clutch set for Kyosho RRR is fine; however, I've yet found out how to use the one for Serpent 720 probably.
Anyway you may ask your buddy to try the following 1st b4 buy the Team Orion clutch:
1) use the ultimate hard clutch spring of Mugen;
2) set the clutch spring tension > 1.5 mm;
3) drill a hole in each of the weights (make the hole's in the same position of each weight) & install a small set screw onto it.

Thanks will give it a try.
I have a mugen super hard spring I can lend him to try out.

The power curve of the CRF engine is different than other's and it also makes more power than any other engine you can buy (you can check the dyno tests). Obviously this requires a clutch that works properly and can cope with the extra power (20-30% more).

The first reccomendation I could give is to check that you are using the updated carburator parts on your engine (carb body and main needle holder) this will give more low end to the engine and make it less sensitive to the clutch setup.

From our testing it seems that only the Kyosho clutch can be made to work right by using the Kyosho 1/8 scale clutch spring and grey shoe. With other cars and clutches, you might be able to get it to work, but probably not with good performance.

The CRF clutch parts are not only good for the CRF engine, we feel that they are an upgrade for any original clutch setup. Using the CRF clutch parts, your clutch will be more consistent, perform better and last longer.

Woah, aren't we a little bit on the optimistic side here. As far as I remember, the LRP spec 2 / Picco Evo 1 already showed more power on the dyno than the CRF, and none of the new generation engines like the Nova 12-3 SCT or the Sirio STI, or Picco EVO 2 are even listed on Nitrodyne's website.

20 - 30% more power is quite a mouth full, even for a Swiss guy :weird: :rolleyes: :lol:

And we cannot wait to see the results!

:nod: :nod: :nod:

Bought a CRF and it's on it's way BUT i'll try to sell it as soon as I get it. Didnt read up on it enough to know that I needed a matching clutch to use it to it's full potential. IMHO, it's not worth it. The engines that Stefan mentioned dont need no stinkin special clutch.

Me and another guy are running the CRF with our stock clutch parts and it's working just great. Justin won the last 3 A Mains (3 different weekends) with it, so it's a winner. :nod:

A special clutch is not necessary, but is helpful in maximizing the engine's true potential. I used a stock clutch with my Kyosho RRR and qualified in the A-final at the US Nationals.

I am sure you will be happy with the engine's performance regardless of the clutch set-up you choose.

Do either of you two guys have a setup for the clutch using the stock Kyosho parts that you can list?

Thanks

I tried Kyosho stock clutch set & Team Orion option clutch set on my RRR. These're my settings:

Kyosho:
clutch gap: 0.6mm
clutch spring preload: 1.6 mm

Team Orion:
clutch gap: 0.6 mm
clutch spring preload: 1 mm

I tried the setting recommended by Team Orion team driver http://www.teamorion.com/FAQ/Wasp+Rev+CRF+Tuning
but found that the clutch shoe would slip all the times with the recommended 1.6 mm clutch spring preload ... my guess his CRF engine was modified to the extreme, so deliver more power & okay to use 1.6 mm clutch spring preload

I'm not setup at the moment to take the engine out of the car to verify the measurements, but I should be able to get you some definitive numbers by this weekend. Keep in mind, that I run on a very different type of track (click here), so my setup may not work for you. I always set my clutch spring nut at 0.8mm - but I need to check on the current clutch gap and endplay. For the endplay, I just want to give you an idea of how many shims I'm putting there.

For those interested here are the settings that Josh Cyrul used with Kyosho original parts.

Clutch:
Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

Gearing:
16 / 22 Pinion
56 / 59 Spur

The settings we give are not for modified engines, they are meant for the same engines you will get in the shop.

With the settings posted on our website, the clutch will slip a little for a few minutes but will then break-in and engage properly. If the clutch engages right away from new, your setting might be a little soft and you might be loosing some low end power.