Wide Open Throttle Break-In.. risky or not??
 

Hi everyone..

I'm planning on using the WOT(Wide Open Throttle) aka Josh Cyrul break-in method in a few days for my new Piston/Sleeve set. My main question, is it really worth trying? How much risk is involved while performing this procedure? Has anyone really tried it and perfected it from the first time?

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

Honestly, there are a few points in the WOT procedure which I find hard to comprehend such as revving the engine at full throttle for three continuos tanks..:weird: Should I shut the car down between the first three tanks for refueling?

I would really like to get some clarification on such points besides I think it will be good topic for a lot of people to understand, especially those entering the hobby.. :nod:

Lots of good info in this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ght=josh+cyrul

If you do decide to go with the WOT method, after each "tank", you let the engine completely cool down. Make sure the piston is at the bottom while it's cooling.

I'm currently running a friends WOT method on two engines for the first time. It's very different from Josh's method - but I trust him, he used the procedure on his engine(s) and it's doing extremely well.

There is a certain "leap of faith" you need to take when you do something like this. If it doesn't workout, you'll just have to chalk it up to experience. Yeah, it may cost you some bucks to fix the engine if things go terribly wrong, but what the heck - it's only money. :sneaky: :lol:

This the break-in bench I'm using:
http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=15000

if you follow josh's method without deviation, your engine will rip. i'm on my 7th gallon through my tz using this method and it still has excellent hot compression. but to get a ton of time out of an engine, you will need to keep the con rod from getting too sloppy, and not cook it during races.

I've done it a little different then Josh with excellent results, but it's basically the same concept except I run 3-4 tanks in a row after the initial idle tanks. Let cool, then run another 3-4 tanks, repeat process until you have run total of 15 tanks. It even worked for hard to break-in engines like the early Ninjas. Broke-in an engine the night before qualifying at the Nats...while pitching quarters, had to be there. It still runs flawlessly with great power.

I use this methed in all my sirio engines its not for all engines but sirio i can say yes it is the only way to go but you defnatly need some exprence or need to see some one who is exprenced with it first. The key to useing this run-in safely is the engine wile at full "WOT" must be so ritch that it dose not rech much more rpms than at idle. There is a very short vid at the sirio web site under "extras" and run in for on-road it shows a kyosho evolva with a sirio 21wcr engine being run in useing this methed. i sugest you watch it many times and ask some very exprenced racers about it and watch some one who knows how to do it befor you try it. All the engines i have done this methed to have been above most in paformance and lasted a very long time and 100% run-in after only 1.5ltrs of fuel. My advice is take your time and fined all the info you can and some video's of this methed befor you try it. Regards Jeremy.

Thanks rmdhawaii for this geart link. If I only knew about this thread before,, I wouldn't have posted this to begin with.

Check it out guys,, it's the answer to all your questions and what's best about is that Josh Cyrul himself answered a few quesions.. :cool:

Yes i Agree the link is well worth checking out i found it very intersting. Regards Jeremy.

Id say if you wanted a quick break in then thats the way to go. There is an immense amount of pressure on the rod when 4 stroking a nitro engine.

Id say if you were a sponsored driver and got 2 to 3 free engines a year and only used them for 2 meets and a long tedious break in is not convenient then yeah for sure.

Ive tried the WOT break in to the letter and had an engine ready to scream within a litre, but the engines i tried with this break in method lost compression at the 5 to 6 litre mark.. Maybe i got it wrong but i did it 3 times.. needless to say its not my preferred way of break in. that dosent mean it wont work for you. My team drivers were using this method too and couldnt get more than 10 litres out of an engine. They changed break in methot to heat cycle and some have close to 55 litres and still loads of pinch.

MM

I read somewhere, that 4-stroking it isn't such a good idea. What engines? What temps were you running? Did you let the engine warm up first or did you go straight to WOT?

I'm basically doing a rebuilt OS .12 TZ 3-port (piston, sleeve, rod & rear bearing replaced; front bearing replace earlier) and a NIB .12 Sirio STI. The TZ took a lot of abuse, as it was my first engine. I did the "idle 3 tanks and then putt around the track for 3 more tanks" break-in method. It was a good engine to get started with. I tried a lot of different things and learned a lot in the process. I don't think it even saw 10 liters before the piston started getting loose. :lol: We'll see how it does this time around. :sneaky:

Here is an article I found on heat cycling, if anyone is interested:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397

Mark form MM if you read the link http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ght=josh+cyrul kindly put there by RdmHawaii. You would see that Rody Rome form rb concepts made it very clear that the engine is not to be 4 stroking I realy sugest you have a look and read it befor you knock it. Regards Jeremy

Rich at wot is generally considered 4 stroking ... But ill read the article again, and dont get your back up im not knoking it , just doing what people do on forums and that is offer personal experience.

ok read it again.. its different to the one i read earlier..

The article makes great sense and is the best way to run in a race engine by a sponsored driver. This will cause the engine to get to a proper sleeve and piston fit within a litre , thats convenient for someone who are sponsored. you get to the track on the practise day, you open the new motor you were given , pop it in and you start to get it run in quickly so you can get max power out of it asap.

Rodys comments make sense and are pretty close to what i do for break in.

However...

if you are a non sponsored driver and you want to get 2 years and close to 50 litres out of an engine then you need to run it in hot and on the road. using the word heat cycling for the rich on box method is a mis noma , its not considered getting hot sitting rich for many tanks at 45 deg c, thats not hot , you can hold the head still.. .. for example.. Thats not any ones fault , ive never heard rich on the box called heat cycling. My definition of heat cycling is to get the engine up over 100 deg c on the first tank with alfoil on the head Getting it up to HEAT, this is not achieved by leaning the engine but rather driving it so the load gets heat into it... , and once you get between 500 ml and 1 litre you are ready for race tune, the engine will take much longer to break in but is still usable till you get to the 4 or 5 litre mark. then it will start to loosten up. You will have like new pinch right up to the 20 litre mark this way. It may not be your preferred method but its designed to get the most use out of a motor.

Wether you bring the tolerances to fit sooner in WOT method or later in heat method they end up getting to the same place eventually, its just the heat method takes much longer, and some would consider that a hinderance , others would welcome it

My addage is to have a motor last as long as possible, so in the end its horses for corses..

: )