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Old 05-26-2008, 05:10 AM   #1456
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can anybody give a brief overview of the difference between the skyline and 2607 pipe?

is the skyline pipe efra approved?
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:20 AM   #1457
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Originally Posted by gortan View Post
this is what I've been able to find. Don't remeber where...

TURBO COLD GLOW-PLUGS to use when humidity is below 70%
*P5TC hot filament
*P6TC medium filament
*P7TC cold filament

TURBO HOT GLOW-PLUGS to use when humidity is above 70%
*P5TH hot filament
*P6TH medium filament
*P7TH cold filament
Thanks, what about using a P5 with 16%?
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:26 AM   #1458
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p5 should work fine with 16%.
however i never used p5 myself.

i use p6. using a plug with a thicker element usually last longer

i'm still using the same plug after a gallon of fuel!
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:32 AM   #1459
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Originally Posted by Mugenville View Post
I must be belting my head against a wall or something, we've started from scratch with factory settings on many occasions, still the same, had the guy's that run this engine at the track look at it with no success, they have put it in there own cars and run with the same problems i have had, they all know about the fat setting on the low end, all have said there is a problem, oh well looks like i'm getting no help here, i'll just cut my loses and put it down to an experiance i'd rather forget (a 200$ paper weight), maybe the few ppl that know me and have looked at this engine might put in there comments about it, we all cant be that stupid
i was haveing the same problem and my car was GEARD TO HIGH and shifting
was to soon and had a pin hole in my fuel line temp at 370 in about 3min.
fixed all my problems at the end of the race day and then the car ran GREAT 5 tanks the bottom setting is way out. takes a little to get it to start but runs and it's fast i hope this will help
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:06 AM   #1460
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I was going to post up a similar question and ask if anybody else has had the same problem, have had mine for over 6-7 months now and had tuning issues from the start, this engine hasn't even had 1.5 ltr's through it yet and just cant for the life of me find out why it wont run, there is an air leak some where, maybe a bodgy front bearing or a hair line crack in the casing somewhere, and yes everything (carby, backplate) has been sealed, have given the engine to others to see if they can get it to run properly to no avail and come back with there is fuel leaking out as the engine mount bolts and side of casing have fuel over them and no there is no fuel leak in the lines, this is very disheartening to me as i'm a low buget racer and cant afford new engines at a drop of a hat, i race with a few guy's that post on here and they have all looked at it and tried tuning it with the same result, there engines all run find and cant understand why is one is a pig, the engine has not been damaged in anyway has it's never been running properly to get it full power on a track with only 1or 2 laps then back in the pits to see whats going on, i sit and read all the posts on here and see you guy's have nothing but praise for this engine (one of the reasons why i got it) and think to myself i must have the only lemon that was produced, not sure what to to do next other than just chuck it in the bin and just give up, this has left a bitter taste in my mouth with the whole nitro scene
Ok here it is .

I have had Mugenville's engine in my car and the problems i had are as follows.

Before running the engine i did the following
I sealed the carby base,backing plate and the pinch pin bolt.
I installed a new Picco 6 plug
I checked the exhaust gasket and checked for anything in the pipe.


I put it on the track i ran it for about 3 to 4 minutes really rich like you would if you are running in an engine and then I leaned it off a 1/8 of a turn at a time it was all well and good while it was that rich but as soon as the engine note changed and it started to make power it would flame out only after a couple of laps when at low speed. Now i know someone will say i had it to lean but this is not the case the engine was running at 90C when it stopped i removed the engine from the car for inspection and found fuel all over the front of the engine case and before anyone tells me it is spilt fuel we were VERY carefull not to spill any fuel when filling the tank as i knew this engine had a problem.
I then cleaned the engine spotless and also any fuel from the car to make sure no more fuel could get on the engine unless it leaked from the engine.
I then ran the engine again until it stopped and then removed it from the car and found fuel all over the front bearing and a line of fuel leaking from the bearing down on the bottom of the case.

Oh and incase anyone is going to ask we also adjusted the idle when it was hot so the idle was no to low. All the end points were all adjusted correctly and all the servo are fine.

I have been running JLR's for about 12 month and i had never had a problem tuning any of my Picco engines.

I hope this helps you Rob
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:58 AM   #1461
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I've had 2nd strip on me
But thats normal for a mugen.
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Old 05-26-2008, 07:29 AM   #1462
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Thanks Brian
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Old 05-26-2008, 07:31 AM   #1463
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But thats normal for a mugen.
The new gears should stop that problem
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:02 AM   #1464
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A line of fuel leaking from the front bearing is not a problem. The engine runs fast enough when running the the inner raceway and balls moving seal the engine, Your bearing I believe is the sealed one? Does not really matter though. We run shielded bearings on all our race motors and they leak a bit when the engine is not running. If there is fuel pouring out from the bearing and not oil I would check why it is unburnt fuel. If it just oily then I would not worry unless you have a bearing failure.
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Old 05-26-2008, 02:46 PM   #1465
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The fact that the engine died when at low speed is the key. Did you set the low speed mixture? I had the same problem yesterday, my engine would die when i lifted the throttle, so I did the 'pinch test' while it was on the box and it was rich so I adjusted it so it took ~5 seconds to die after pinching the fuel line. They engine ran great the entire main, never stalled or flamed out once. As far as leakage, IDK, I have two of these engines and I never noticed any leakage, but i never looked because they always ran good.
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Old 05-26-2008, 03:28 PM   #1466
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Thanks to all for your help, have been in contact with my supplier and the engine is going to be sent back in the next week or so to see if the problem can be resolved, in the mean time i will break out the other Evo3 i have and run that in
Cheer's Rob
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:02 PM   #1467
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But thats normal for a mugen.
Not any more!
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:04 PM   #1468
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Thanks to all for your help, have been in contact with my supplier and the engine is going to be sent back in the next week or so to see if the problem can be resolved, in the mean time i will break out the other Evo3 i have and run that in
Cheer's Rob
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:30 PM   #1469
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It will still run good, but I would suggest replacing the Connecting Rod before running it again, overreving (by getting stuck in 2nd gear) a Picco engine actually weakens the rod bushings.
Also did you tear the engine apart to inspect the internals? how is the top of the piston and the head button? are they badly pitted?
I'm not too sure about pitting. Is this badly pitted or not? One with flash, the other is the natural color -- black.

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Old 05-26-2008, 08:04 PM   #1470
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That is pitting but that is a classic picture of detonation. Either to little head clearance or way to hot. The only other thing that can cause it is when a glow plug element lets go in the engine.
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