Even you could afford one Tom, "Listen to the force young Tom"

Sounds good to me .

I've had mine for awhile now and i'm more than happy with it :D:D:D:D.

To put it nicely it Hauls arse and it's an Evo2!!!

Can't wait to get the Evo3. :nod::nod::nod:

It sure did, you should of been in the Amain on the weekend and would of been nice to see it against the "Guns" :lol:

I can guarantee you that picco nor Ofna is losing any money selling it for $179.00. I just don't believe there enough material in a .12 to justify charging $300 plus dollars for one. I'm betting all the .12's would be within this price range if the other companies weren't being greedy. Just my opinion, if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will let me know.

Good on them.

JLR 12
 

I've had really good luck with this motors. I went through the entire season last year with two of them. One big thing about these motors is that they make fuel mileage. Thats a big plus if your racing right on the edge, and struggling to make mileage. Look...........when it's 70 degrees outside.........all motors make mileage. It's a different story when it's 90 degrees outside.

Most people looking to buy this motor should definately be buying the 2607 pipe.The racing circuit has become so competitive that racers need to buy the pipe designed for the car.

One thing I do notice about the motor is that you have to stay on top of rod replacement. This is really true about all motors. I run my motors on the ragged edge every weekend that I race. Some tracks are fast and smooth..........and some are very bumpy. In any case make sure you check the rod often(after every race weekend) The motor at the wrist pin end seems always to be fine. At the crank pin check for wear. If you remove the back plate and rotate the piston to top dead center check the rod movement. You can do this buy rocking the crankshaft back in forth while the piston is at top dead center. If you notice the crank swinging more than 10 degrees...........replace the rod. If you do replace the rod.....also check the crank pin for wear. Use calipers to check it. I have found there crank pins to be very hard with little or no wear. I do end up replacing the rod every gallon to 1.5 gallons. You may not have to do this, but I push my motors really hard. It's still cheap insurance for a long lasting motor.

is the pipe ofna 51900 the same as the 2607?

No it's not! there is a HUGE difference in performance, can't even compare between the 2.

Anybody besides XR Turbo had problems with the pinch bolt not holding the carby in tight, tightened mine as tight as it could go and carby is still loose and moves everytime you move the throttle servo, i know this is a quick fix but maybe Picco/Ofna have overlooked this :weird:

i've had this problem, just replace it bro. not the engine lol and not the carb, the bolt ok.

damn.. the old CRF disease ay!... i'm keen to see how this engine performs. you going to Whalen on the 25th nov Mugenville?

Just grind some of the locking pin and it will tighten just fine, after i did this
to mine it hasen't move a mil.

Just like what Xr Turbo just posted, take of the pinch bolt then grind the inner side (the one without a thread) taking off a little material should do the trick. by doing these it will allow both side of the pinch bolt to get closer to each other which will tighten the carburetor better.

That's what i did but to both sides, locks fine now, umm 1 tank through it now :cry:, pity they cant stay new forever :lol: Look out now Itchy B

Itchy B can watch the RRR Evo with the red dot go past :lol::lol::lol::lol: