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Old 05-21-2007, 10:44 PM   #391
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Well just ordered the ceramic boca bearing. Part # SMR616C-2YS-NB2. Thanks to AFM for providing those numbers. It only costs 9.99 for the front bearing so this is perfect. Hopefully it solves my problems. Ill let you guys know.
Hey AI, would u happen to have the part # for the rear bearing also. At that price it would be better to change both bearings when putting in another piston and sleeve. Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:10 AM   #392
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anyone know if there is a dyno on this motor available?
i would like to know where it sits with the Sirio STI, CRF and Nova based motors...
thanks
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Old 05-22-2007, 01:05 PM   #393
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anyone know if there is a dyno on this motor available?
i would like to know where it sits with the Sirio STI, CRF and Nova based motors...
thanks
I'm not sure where it sits as far as dyno numbers, but I saw Jeffery Lin run his bone stock/out the box/ non-mod JL red dot at CP this past Saturday and it was a ROCKET!!! I had to take a double take because I thought it was a STI or a JP, but it had that Picco sound to it and the JL was just plan smoking the track... I haven't had much to say on these threads for the past 9-10 months... but this motor is a must have for any true sedan racer and for the cost... You can't beat it. Shoot... I'm getting one next week and I don't even have time to race anymore... It's that good.

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Old 05-23-2007, 06:08 AM   #394
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Default Lean Bogging of the JLR

This is a really good motor, and very fast if you keep afew things in mind. This motor likes to be rich on the bottom end. It will run best if it's fatter on the bottom end than you would NORMALLY run most Novarossi,Sirio etc based motors. In fact after warm-up and very hard hard running I run the bottom end fat enough that it immediately drops to a low idle on pit entry. Absolutely no pinging. A healthy trail of smoke after pit exit. This coupled with running a properly adjusted clutch virtually eliminated any lean bogging. I've been running the clutch to the point where it slips, and just back it off so the clutch doesn't slip and the engine stays up in the rpm range. I had no trouble leaning the top of the motor with a rich bottom end. Another mistake some people are making with the motor is undergearing. The motor likes tall gears to get the top end you'll need on the straights. The tighter clutch helps compensate for the lower first gear(18/24 in my mugen mtx-4)
The motor also gets great mileage. Right now across the country the weather is still fairly cool, and I'm easily making 5 mins with almost a 1/4 of tank of fuel left. When the summer temps get in the 90's I don't believe I'll have any trouble making mileage. Mileage will become a problem with some of the thirsty other mills. Hope these tips help.
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:29 AM   #395
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Originally Posted by RayJ
This is a really good motor, and very fast if you keep afew things in mind. This motor likes to be rich on the bottom end. It will run best if it's fatter on the bottom end than you would NORMALLY run most Novarossi,Sirio etc based motors. In fact after warm-up and very hard hard running I run the bottom end fat enough that it immediately drops to a low idle on pit entry. Absolutely no pinging. A healthy trail of smoke after pit exit. This coupled with running a properly adjusted clutch virtually eliminated any lean bogging. I've been running the clutch to the point where it slips, and just back it off so the clutch doesn't slip and the engine stays up in the rpm range. I had no trouble leaning the top of the motor with a rich bottom end. Another mistake some people are making with the motor is undergearing. The motor likes tall gears to get the top end you'll need on the straights. The tighter clutch helps compensate for the lower first gear(18/24 in my mugen mtx-4)
The motor also gets great mileage. Right now across the country the weather is still fairly cool, and I'm easily making 5 mins with almost a 1/4 of tank of fuel left. When the summer temps get in the 90's I don't believe I'll have any trouble making mileage. Mileage will become a problem with some of the thirsty other mills. Hope these tips help.
Thanks for the tips RayJ,...So what pipe do you use with your JLR??
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:47 AM   #396
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looks like the crank on this motor big end side is almost bone stock! the turbo scoop doesn't even join up with the bore man
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Old 05-23-2007, 10:36 AM   #397
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looks like the crank on this motor big end side is almost bone stock! the turbo scoop doesn't even join up with the bore man
You don't need a huge turbo scoop to make power... I take it you don't have the motor or seen it run yet...

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Old 05-23-2007, 11:21 AM   #398
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in regards to the turbo scoop, the reason why it doesn't connect with the bore is because it is an efra spec engine. in regards to pipe, another pipe to consider is the ofna 51900 pipe (i think that's the right #) I think Brian Thomas used this pipe with the JL when he wasn't using the Ninja and he reported liking this combination.
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:27 AM   #399
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Ok guys. Took apart the motor and saw some troubling things.







The arrows are pointing towards what looks like a foggy/scratchy area on the piston. Another photo shows that the area also goes above the piston rings and towards the top.

Then the backplate has some scratching on it. I have some thoughts on this and have seen this before in motors. But want to get some professional opinions. Im thinking this motor just isnt right.

It was broken in with wildcat 20% w/ 10% oil. Picco glow-plug and the motor was checked over before running for any left over material. It was clean.

I broke in the motor via the cyrul method and have only run it rich since then on the track slowing leaning it to get good power. Except for at kissimee when I finally went to go for race tune where it really started to show its troubles. I had a very rich bottom end and never really was getting smoke.

Runnning the p6tc picco glow plug (med-cold)

Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:41 AM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blanks596
in regards to the turbo scoop, the reason why it doesn't connect with the bore is because it is an efra spec engine. in regards to pipe, another pipe to consider is the ofna 51900 pipe (i think that's the right #) I think Brian Thomas used this pipe with the JL when he wasn't using the Ninja and he reported liking this combination.
I believe I have that pipe on route to me now. The ofna picco pipe. It looks similiar to the mega , comes with two header. One for novarossi outlet and picco outlet. Header length looks simliar to the mega pipe.

Will let you guys know how it runs once I figure out this engine troubles. Also anyone know what carbs might fit on here? I might just try another carb.
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:16 PM   #401
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This is not good. That light colored ring around your piston should actually be on the very top of the piston and nt way down there. It means that the taper of the piston is off and the compression is built where the ring is. This engine will not make any serious power.

I'd recommend that you have the sleeve pinched by OS-Rocket. He can fix this for you and the engine will lastfor a long time afterwards.

http://www.osrocketracing.com/pistonsleeve.php

This is exactly waht makes buying a Picco engine like playing Russian Roulette, or as Forrest Gump said: "Piccos are like a box 'o choclate, you never know what ya gonna get"




Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Ok guys. Took apart the motor and saw some troubling things.


The arrows are pointing towards what looks like a foggy/scratchy area on the piston. Another photo shows that the area also goes above the piston rings and towards the top.

Then the backplate has some scratching on it. I have some thoughts on this and have seen this before in motors. But want to get some professional opinions. Im thinking this motor just isnt right.

It was broken in with wildcat 20% w/ 10% oil. Picco glow-plug and the motor was checked over before running for any left over material. It was clean.

I broke in the motor via the cyrul method and have only run it rich since then on the track slowing leaning it to get good power. Except for at kissimee when I finally went to go for race tune where it really started to show its troubles. I had a very rich bottom end and never really was getting smoke.

Runnning the p6tc picco glow plug (med-cold)

Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:41 PM   #402
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For those with a leaking front bearing or LSN, what are your LSN/HSN needle settings? What head clearance, fuel and plug? And how many hours do you have on the engine?

Kind of interesting that this problem is only showing up in the forum now.
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:44 PM   #403
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Hey RayJ,

I know that people need to tune their individual engines based on their operating conditions, but could you let us know what your LSN/HSN needle settings are? I think it will give people a better idea of what you mean by "rich bottom".

Thanks
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:58 PM   #404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
This is not good. That light colored ring around your piston should actually be on the very top of the piston and nt way down there. It means that the taper of the piston is off and the compression is built where the ring is. This engine will not make any serious power.

I'd recommend that you have the sleeve pinched by OS-Rocket. He can fix this for you and the engine will lastfor a long time afterwards.

http://www.osrocketracing.com/pistonsleeve.php

This is exactly waht makes buying a Picco engine like playing Russian Roulette, or as Forrest Gump said: "Piccos are like a box 'o choclate, you never know what ya gonna get"
Do you think breaking in via the cyrul method could have caused this? Do you think if it was broken in more that it could be fixed?
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:01 PM   #405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I broke in the motor via the cyrul method and have only run it rich since then on the track slowing leaning it to get good power. Except for at kissimee when I finally went to go for race tune where it really started to show its troubles. I had a very rich bottom end and never really was getting smoke.
I think the jury is still out on the best and most appropriate method to break in this engine. Some idle it, run rich on the track and then lean it - and some use WOT. Even though the engine is Picco based, does that mean that all Picco based engines should be broken in the same way? Are all the pistons and sleeves made of the same material?

We all know how important it is to properly break-in the engine. Choose the wrong method or do a certain method incorrectly and you'll have nothing but trouble.
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