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Old 04-16-2007, 06:20 PM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
cold glow plugs are to be used when ambient humidity is below 70%
hot glow plugs are to be used with 70% or more air humidity

the number you'll use i.e 6 or 7 in any format, depends on your nitro % and air temp. colder temps calls for hotter filament and vice versa. higher nitro content colder filament

afm
thanks
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Old 04-16-2007, 07:59 PM   #287
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i am in texas.. houston.. what plugs should I use. i have 6 now but i dont know if they are hot or cold? lol. all i know is the JLP red dot brings the power. I am sold. I will get at least one more this week.

~
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Old 04-16-2007, 08:07 PM   #288
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i am in texas.. houston.. what plugs should I use. i have 6 now but i dont know if they are hot or cold? lol. all i know is the JLP red dot brings the power. I am sold. I will get at least one more this week.

~
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Old 04-16-2007, 08:15 PM   #289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiggindude
i am in texas.. houston.. what plugs should I use. i have 6 now but i dont know if they are hot or cold? lol. all i know is the JLP red dot brings the power. I am sold. I will get at least one more this week.

~
Sean,
What you have now are medium cold, which will work for you what is average temp there?

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Old 04-16-2007, 11:50 PM   #290
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Default Houston Temp

The temp now is around 80 for the last few weeks.

It is going to get warmer soon.. l would say 90-95 within the next month or so.

I sent you an email asking about a ton of stuff. My next order will be a big one if you have the items in stock.

Thanks

I will call tomorrow. I think I am going to Dallas for the SouthWest Series Race Sunday... If so I need some parts.. lol
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:00 PM   #291
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Temps finally reached 70 here and I couldnt pass up the opurtunity to run this.

One question is, why was this engine so EASY to break in, or start to break in?

my nova rossi I had to have the hair dryer on it for close to 10 min while this engine I put some fuel on it, slapped the car on the starter box and it fired up almost instantly.

Does not having that much punch limit its power?.

As for other points, I ran one tank through the engine, temps never broke 193F, the engine idles like a champ, and the skyline pipe makes it sounds like a 4-stroke at idle, tons of blue smoke coming from it, im like....WTF? i never had this much fun/ ease breaking in an engine.

Has everyone else's experience been like this? or is my engine a bad egg thats gonna go soon or perform horribly?
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:29 PM   #292
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This engine is a Picco and they don't use a ton of taper at top dead center.
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:33 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
Temps finally reached 70 here and I couldnt pass up the opurtunity to run this.

One question is, why was this engine so EASY to break in, or start to break in?

my nova rossi I had to have the hair dryer on it for close to 10 min while this engine I put some fuel on it, slapped the car on the starter box and it fired up almost instantly.

Does not having that much punch limit its power?.

As for other points, I ran one tank through the engine, temps never broke 193F, the engine idles like a champ, and the skyline pipe makes it sounds like a 4-stroke at idle, tons of blue smoke coming from it, im like....WTF? i never had this much fun/ ease breaking in an engine.

Has everyone else's experience been like this? or is my engine a bad egg thats gonna go soon or perform horribly?
Thats normal. The Picco based motor like the JL or mega zx12 take no real break in time. I normall use 3 tanks on the bench at WOT. then I hit the track and run it rich for about 3 more tanks. Then tune to race. These engines run rich on the bottom and like to idle low, If you can keep that in the back of your mind than you will have no problems.

DJ Apolaro
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:42 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro
Thats normal. The Picco based motor like the JL or mega zx12 take no real break in time. I normall use 3 tanks on the bench at WOT. then I hit the track and run it rich for about 3 more tanks. Then tune to race. These engines run rich on the bottom and like to idle low, If you can keep that in the back of your mind than you will have no problems.

DJ Apolaro
For the 3 tanks on WOT, what temp are you running? Also, what plug?

Thanks!
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:49 PM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro
Thats normal. The Picco based motor like the JL or mega zx12 take no real break in time. I normall use 3 tanks on the bench at WOT. then I hit the track and run it rich for about 3 more tanks. Then tune to race. These engines run rich on the bottom and like to idle low, If you can keep that in the back of your mind than you will have no problems.

DJ Apolaro
Do you idle a tank first? And the 3 tanks WOT do you let the engine cool between tanks or just keep refueling? Same question for the tanks on the track?

Thanks
Gael
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:15 PM   #296
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I do NOT idle the 1st tank, but I do take the motor apart first to make sure there are no burrs inside. I also do NOT temp the motor, I just feel it to make sure the motor is getting some heat. Usually if you run WOT, just enough to make the wheels turn than you are good. For the break in I make sure the clutch is not too tight, since I normally run a very hard clutch. I take a break in between each tank. Let the motor cool down do normal room temps. Making sure the piston is at the bottom and not stuck in the top of the piston. I use the 6 cold for break in and a 7 cold to race.
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Old 04-20-2007, 06:55 PM   #297
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Default Picco

I just got my second motor today. Thanks Sam. I am sold on the motor with the skyline pipe. I am trying to make the sunday southwest series race in Dallas this week. We will see though. I have a new kit I gotta build.
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:13 PM   #298
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RCRevo - Guess you're ready to hit the tracks! I know you won't make it this sun, but I'll be heading down to Floyd Bennet Field.
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:06 PM   #299
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Hay guys. Been having a time getting the right plug. Here is the reason.

The #51006 plug used to be the medium. Plug , every site out now has it listed as medium. Even the package that says ofna , that holds the cardboard piece inside that says picco/ofna. Doesnt say anything.

Now Ofna is classifying the #51006 as the HOT plug. They said this plug will work but that they reccomend the #51005. I called nitrohouse to verify and the guy said the 51006 was medium. Then he checked ofnas part #'s and said sure enough its now showing #51006 as the hot plug.

So now I know what plug to get from the ofna/picco plugs. They also said like everyone has, the serpent/mega plugs are good too. But I didnt get into what they reccomend on those. Perhaps someone else can contact them and get some part #'s and reccomendations. I also let them know id be running 20 or 30. So im guessing with the ofna plugs theres less plugs and less ranges to mess with.
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:08 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
cold glow plugs are to be used when ambient humidity is below 70%
hot glow plugs are to be used with 70% or more air humidity

the number you'll use i.e 6 or 7 in any format, depends on your nitro % and air temp. colder temps calls for hotter filament and vice versa. higher nitro content colder filament

afm

Here in florida the humidity is high. So perhaps I should run the #51006 HOT plug. The thing I always thought was the hotter the plug the more you advance timing , the colder plug the more you retard the timing. So if they reccomend 25% nitro maximum on the stock shims. Then if I wanted to run lets say 30% like some have. I would probably want to run a colder plug to retard the timing some, so there isnt detonation. Even though the humidity is up there.

The other thing that Ive heard about glow-plugs is that if its hot out you want to run a cooler plug. To keep the motor cooler and a hotter plug to keep the motor going in cold situations.

Then a hotter plug gives more bottom end , while retarding gives you more top end speed. So on a lets say a big track youd want a cold plug to run some more power down the straight. Where a tight track a hotter plug , to keep the power down low.

Then finally two more. One is you want to use a hotter glow plug if your flaming out. This basically ignites the fuel quicker. Which should create a more complete combustion cycle since its starting earlier.

As well a hotter plug overall makes you run more fuel , which should lubricate the motor more , provide more smoke. But at the same time the retarded timing might leave the motor wetter as its not completely burning it up and that I also heard helps keep the motor more lubricated.

Being I cant really sit there and test this all. Allthough ive done a lot. Its hard to really do all of this and keep it fresh in the mind , unless I was having bad motor troubles a lot. Luckily I normally get a motor tune it on whatever the heck plug it has and luckily it always seems to go well. I did get some pre-igntion on a motor by trying to prevent flaming out by going to a hotter plug. But I found I was down .1 too many shims and readded the shim and it ran perfect.
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