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Old 07-29-2008, 02:01 AM   #1651
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I tried to richen the LSN to bring down the idle, but it just doesn't react as expected.
as "roadrage" also indicates, it might just be your LSN is allready set way to rich, so richen it even more doesn't help... Leaning it, by maybe 2 full 360 degrees turns (don't know, can't see from here) might do the trick and then offcourse lower the idle.
Also then you probably have to richen the HSN....
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:14 AM   #1652
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how many mm head shims do you use and what % nitro fuel?
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:37 AM   #1653
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OK, did a little playing around and still no joy. I tried to richen the LSN to bring down the idle, but it just doesn't react as expected. If I try to set my idle screw for .5 to 1mm gap, it will just stall, no matter my LSN. I typically need to have about 2mm gap, maybe a little more to ensure that it doesn't die. I tried everything from 3 turns to 7 turns out. With that amount of idle gap, after a few hot laps, sometimes the idle will stay high. But it is inconsistent, sometimes it idles OK, sometimes it goes high, sometimes it goes low and dies. Seems sluggish on the bottom. Top end seems a little better but certainly not the monster that many others have reported. I'm able to get engine temps into the 220-230 range, but can't get higher because the performance is just not there.

I took the air filter off while running on the box to make sure the slide was operating normally and I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel splashing out of the carb throat. Don't know if that is normal because I never had to do that with my other engines . Didn't notice fuel on the exterior, but then I didn't look real hard either. The inconsistency is what is driving me nuts. Wish I had another carb that would fit, just to do a quick test. Not sure what to try next .
Did you do all that I said. Get the engine running the best it can on the top end then work with the bottom. Keep the engine running when running the engine on top till it leans out to make power then mess with the low speed. If you do both at the same time you will be doing this until you have no more hair.If you did follow it then yes look at the pipe as well. Carb leak teat is simple enough as well. You can leak it on the engine. Block the exhaust remove the header. remove the air filter and block. Install piece of fuel line and use light oil that will run around easy. Blow into the fuel inlet make sure the slide is open. run oil all over joints and seals look for bubbles. . One more thing to try which I do not think this is it. Your tank seal is ok right. If so this all tested ok. Just try a new pipe you may have a baffle that is coming apart like Doug said.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:41 AM   #1654
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OK, did a little playing around and still no joy. I tried to richen the LSN to bring down the idle, but it just doesn't react as expected. If I try to set my idle screw for .5 to 1mm gap, it will just stall, no matter my LSN. I typically need to have about 2mm gap, maybe a little more to ensure that it doesn't die. I tried everything from 3 turns to 7 turns out. With that amount of idle gap, after a few hot laps, sometimes the idle will stay high. But it is inconsistent, sometimes it idles OK, sometimes it goes high, sometimes it goes low and dies. Seems sluggish on the bottom. Top end seems a little better but certainly not the monster that many others have reported. I'm able to get engine temps into the 220-230 range, but can't get higher because the performance is just not there.

I took the air filter off while running on the box to make sure the slide was operating normally and I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel splashing out of the carb throat. Don't know if that is normal because I never had to do that with my other engines . Didn't notice fuel on the exterior, but then I didn't look real hard either. The inconsistency is what is driving me nuts. Wish I had another carb that would fit, just to do a quick test. Not sure what to try next .
Mitch,

What pipe are you using?

Check the seal on your fuel tank as well
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:15 PM   #1655
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One day Doug will run the real powerplant in his ride. The day that the Day goes fast!!! LOL
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:25 PM   #1656
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One day Doug will run the real powerplant in his ride. The day that the Day goes fast!!! LOL
think i will need one for the nationals at the fort
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Old 07-31-2008, 08:38 AM   #1657
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Traced my tuning problem to an air leak. Right where the carb mates with the main body, in the very center of the pinch bolt. Even if I press down as hard as possible on the carb, the little o-ring doesn't quite seal in this area. I think they should use a thicker o-ring to make it easier to get some compression on it. Time for a little sealant and then we'll try things again.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:28 PM   #1658
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I would replace the oring with a new one no thicker. Get the OE one and when you install the carb make sure you push down real hard then lock down and recheck for air leak. I am glad you found the problem!!!
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:37 PM   #1659
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I would replace the oring with a new one no thicker. Get the OE one and when you install the carb make sure you push down real hard then lock down and recheck for air leak. I am glad you found the problem!!!
Just as a test, I replaced the existing one with another that I had, that is a little thicker and softer. When I pressed down on the carb, I was definitely able to get decent compression on the o-ring. Verified no air leaks. Fired it up and was immediately able to set my idle gap where it should be. Also, when I adjust the needles, I get the response I expect. Much better! I've got a new set of o-rings on order so I'll try to do the same with a stock new one.
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:28 PM   #1660
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Just as a test, I replaced the existing one with another that I had, that is a little thicker and softer. When I pressed down on the carb, I was definitely able to get decent compression on the o-ring. Verified no air leaks. Fired it up and was immediately able to set my idle gap where it should be. Also, when I adjust the needles, I get the response I expect. Much better! I've got a new set of o-rings on order so I'll try to do the same with a stock new one.
It will also help if you put a drop of oil on each orings, so the carburetor will slide in easier and will also prevent the o-rings from being damaged.
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Old 07-31-2008, 06:51 PM   #1661
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It will also help if you put a drop of oil on each orings, so the carburetor will slide in easier and will also prevent the o-rings from being damaged.

Yep this also what Sam said. works good also!!!
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Old 07-31-2008, 10:00 PM   #1662
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Does anybody has compared the IDM P1R Evo3 with JL3 Tuned?
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:08 PM   #1663
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Does anybody has compared the IDM P1R Evo3 with JL3 Tuned?
IDM is modified by Daniele Ielasi
JL Tuned is EDO modified
Both are PICCO based motors just modified by 2 different persons, both have matched piston/sleeve, the crankshaft's inner diameter of the JL tuned measures 7.50mm and it comes shimmed for 30% fuel. whereas IDM .12 is pre-shimmed for 16%.
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:17 AM   #1664
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IDM is modified by Daniele Ielasi
JL Tuned is EDO modified
Both are PICCO based motors just modified by 2 different persons, both have matched piston/sleeve, the crankshaft's inner diameter of the JL tuned measures 7.50mm and it comes shimmed for 30% fuel. whereas IDM .12 is pre-shimmed for 16%.
my box stock IDM came with 0.4mm of shims and manual says it's ready for 16-20%...but manual stated stock is 0.3mm shims.

so...which is correct?
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:24 AM   #1665
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i run my jl3 with 0.4mm shims on 16% nitro.
it runs fine like that.. never tried 0.3mm. I'm happy with it as it is..
some people recommend 0.3, other 0.4 for the jl3. I prefer to stay safe with 0.4
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