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Originally Posted by WatchOut
(Post 4683511)
I tried to richen the LSN to bring down the idle, but it just doesn't react as expected.
Also then you probably have to richen the HSN.... |
how many mm head shims do you use and what % nitro fuel?
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Originally Posted by WatchOut
(Post 4683511)
OK, did a little playing around and still no joy:eek:. I tried to richen the LSN to bring down the idle, but it just doesn't react as expected. If I try to set my idle screw for .5 to 1mm gap, it will just stall, no matter my LSN. I typically need to have about 2mm gap, maybe a little more to ensure that it doesn't die. I tried everything from 3 turns to 7 turns out. With that amount of idle gap, after a few hot laps, sometimes the idle will stay high. But it is inconsistent, sometimes it idles OK, sometimes it goes high, sometimes it goes low and dies. Seems sluggish on the bottom. Top end seems a little better but certainly not the monster that many others have reported. I'm able to get engine temps into the 220-230 range, but can't get higher because the performance is just not there.
I took the air filter off while running on the box to make sure the slide was operating normally and I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel splashing out of the carb throat. Don't know if that is normal because I never had to do that with my other engines :weird:. Didn't notice fuel on the exterior, but then I didn't look real hard either. The inconsistency is what is driving me nuts. Wish I had another carb that would fit, just to do a quick test. Not sure what to try next :confused:. |
Originally Posted by WatchOut
(Post 4683511)
OK, did a little playing around and still no joy:eek:. I tried to richen the LSN to bring down the idle, but it just doesn't react as expected. If I try to set my idle screw for .5 to 1mm gap, it will just stall, no matter my LSN. I typically need to have about 2mm gap, maybe a little more to ensure that it doesn't die. I tried everything from 3 turns to 7 turns out. With that amount of idle gap, after a few hot laps, sometimes the idle will stay high. But it is inconsistent, sometimes it idles OK, sometimes it goes high, sometimes it goes low and dies. Seems sluggish on the bottom. Top end seems a little better but certainly not the monster that many others have reported. I'm able to get engine temps into the 220-230 range, but can't get higher because the performance is just not there.
I took the air filter off while running on the box to make sure the slide was operating normally and I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel splashing out of the carb throat. Don't know if that is normal because I never had to do that with my other engines :weird:. Didn't notice fuel on the exterior, but then I didn't look real hard either. The inconsistency is what is driving me nuts. Wish I had another carb that would fit, just to do a quick test. Not sure what to try next :confused:. What pipe are you using? Check the seal on your fuel tank as well |
One day Doug will run the real powerplant in his ride. The day that the Day goes fast!!! LOL :nod::nod::eek:
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Originally Posted by xspower
(Post 4687156)
One day Doug will run the real powerplant in his ride. The day that the Day goes fast!!! LOL :nod::nod::eek:
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Traced my tuning problem to an air leak. Right where the carb mates with the main body, in the very center of the pinch bolt. Even if I press down as hard as possible on the carb, the little o-ring doesn't quite seal in this area. I think they should use a thicker o-ring to make it easier to get some compression on it. Time for a little sealant and then we'll try things again.
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I would replace the oring with a new one no thicker. Get the OE one and when you install the carb make sure you push down real hard then lock down and recheck for air leak. I am glad you found the problem!!!
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Originally Posted by xspower
(Post 4694024)
I would replace the oring with a new one no thicker. Get the OE one and when you install the carb make sure you push down real hard then lock down and recheck for air leak. I am glad you found the problem!!!
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Originally Posted by WatchOut
(Post 4694058)
Just as a test, I replaced the existing one with another that I had, that is a little thicker and softer. When I pressed down on the carb, I was definitely able to get decent compression on the o-ring. Verified no air leaks. Fired it up and was immediately able to set my idle gap where it should be. Also, when I adjust the needles, I get the response I expect. :blush: Much better!:blush: I've got a new set of o-rings on order so I'll try to do the same with a stock new one.
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
(Post 4694207)
It will also help if you put a drop of oil on each orings, so the carburetor will slide in easier and will also prevent the o-rings from being damaged.
Yep this also what Sam said. works good also!!! |
Does anybody has compared the IDM P1R Evo3 with JL3 Tuned?
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Originally Posted by jeff1
(Post 4695290)
Does anybody has compared the IDM P1R Evo3 with JL3 Tuned?
JL Tuned is EDO modified Both are PICCO based motors just modified by 2 different persons, both have matched piston/sleeve, the crankshaft's inner diameter of the JL tuned measures 7.50mm and it comes shimmed for 30% fuel. whereas IDM .12 is pre-shimmed for 16%. |
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
(Post 4695507)
IDM is modified by Daniele Ielasi
JL Tuned is EDO modified Both are PICCO based motors just modified by 2 different persons, both have matched piston/sleeve, the crankshaft's inner diameter of the JL tuned measures 7.50mm and it comes shimmed for 30% fuel. whereas IDM .12 is pre-shimmed for 16%. so...which is correct? :weird: |
i run my jl3 with 0.4mm shims on 16% nitro.
it runs fine like that.. never tried 0.3mm. I'm happy with it as it is.. some people recommend 0.3, other 0.4 for the jl3. I prefer to stay safe with 0.4 :) |
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