JLG

HELP!
I am about to throw this new car in the trash… I have a Nitro TC3 with a Mugen Seiki X12 I had it running at one time….. took it to the track for the first time never got a chance to run the car …. Someone in the pits was I guess at the time trying to help me out he adjusted the engine.. now after that it no longer will run that was 5 months ago.. today I attempted to re adjust it and I was finally able to get it started but it has a screaming fast idle. All I know for sure is I spent 1,000 on buying and building this car and it has been no fun, think ill go back to my electric cars those I have no problem making them go fast and have fun doing it.

mugenb46

iTrader: (4)

JLG , the engine won't run thread is on page two of the nitro engine zone, a guy needed help breaking in his motor and was having troubl getting it to run. this is alot to read what i posted about it but it should help you in your case as well. if you can put the needles back to factory setting and start over it wont take you as long because the motor is broke in already. but follow this and that motor should be strkin in no time. hope that helps.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Unlike electric motors, nitros need to be tuned every time you run them. THe weather changes and they need to be tuned again. You have to learn how to tune your engine, once you do, it will be easy and you will enjoy Nitro. Remember, the engine is only as good as the person using it, so dont balme the equipment, learn how to work with it.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

set the carby to std settings which are 5.5 turns out from flush on high speed needle and 3.5 turns out on low speed needle from flush. flush means screw in the needles till they dont turn anymore or get harder to turn, be carefull not to turn it hard or needle damage can occur. this is basic setting. if the engine wont run still then try a new glow plug and possibly blow through the fuel intake tube to see if any restriction occurs. if you cant blow through it then its blocked and will need to be pulled down and cleaned. hope this helps.

lance04

Pattojnr, im sorry but the meaning of flush is that the screw is on the same height as the surface, which means the whole thing should be flat, the screw not potruding out, neither is the screw inside.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i do realise that , but i was trying to word it in a way that a newbie might understand. and i did explain what flush meant at the time. i could have just said screw it in till i dont screw no more. and then there would have been a risk of damaging something. or i could have said nothing at all. its fair enough guys help others out. but for some one who is in need of help desperately, telling them to read back through pages of info just doesnt cut it. then to have a go at some one who has offered the help ?

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

no two engines are exactly alike. my friend and i both had NSR 12's which are basically Mugen X12's with a tad different timings. his ran great at 6 turns out on the high end while mine was great at 4.5 turns on the high end. fuel brand and nitro % also matters as does plug, head clearance, fuel tubing length, pipe, etc.....

try 3 turns out on the low end (with the barrel pulled all the way out when you set it), and 5 turns on the top end.

also the NTC3 fuel system sucks. even the K Factory tank was terrible and I never like a pipe without a fuel nipple on it. it makes a difference if you have the fuel line shoved 1/4" in the pipe or 1" in the pipe. it changes your fuel pressure greatly at the carb which affects the tune. i used to tie a zip tie around mine to make sure it didn't go in to far and i could see if it pulled out.

hows the clutch??

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

So what is the verdict JLG ? have you got the engine to run properly yet ?