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Old 09-11-2006, 12:38 PM   #76
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lol
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:56 PM   #77
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well, i have heard of using heat gun also. but i afraid that it might be too noisy to break in at home, so i didn't use. so end up with few scratches on the piston, so its advisable to heat up the heat sink. but i think tat if u are able to start up the very 1st time on the new engine, let it idle for 1 tank also helps to heat up. (but use a cloth to cover up the heat sink)
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Old 09-14-2006, 11:37 PM   #78
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What would happen if I take the crankshaft from my tz 5 port and stick it in the 3 port. I understand the dimensions are the same, but the bore is bigger with the 5 port crank. Would this improve bottom or top end? Would it burn more fuel?
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Old 09-15-2006, 08:41 AM   #79
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It's been discussed on the TZ thread that engine builders (and a few others) are putting the 5p crank in the 3p engine. But this thread is about the Speed Tuned 3p. If you have the ST3p engine I would not swap cranks.
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Old 09-16-2006, 04:23 PM   #80
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Default O.S. SPEED Part Numbers

Guys,

I spoke with O.S. Car engine designer a few days ago @ IFMAR 200mm World Championship Brendale, AUSTRALIA about the spare parts for O.S SPEED 12TZ.

There was a mistake in printing. In Japan market the booklet shouldn’t have the part numbers for piston, liner, head, and crankshaft.

O.S. in Japan prefer all owner in Japan to send their’s engine back to O.S. Factory for service.
For export engine part numbers should be in the manual booklet but there are none.

O.S. will re-print new manual booklet for export only with all missing part numbers.

There are the part numbers.
Crankcase – 21531100
Crankshaft – 21532100
Piston & Liner – 21533100
Heat Sink – 21534020
Carburetor Assembly – 21538020
Carburetor parts (Needle Assembly – 21538510), (Reducer 5.5mm red – 71533155)

Regards,
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:16 AM   #81
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thanks for posting the missing part numbers
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Old 09-23-2006, 02:27 PM   #82
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The October 2006 issue of Xtreme RC Cars has a great review of the engine by none other than our very own mxwrench (Brian Kinney). You should check it out!

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Old 09-24-2006, 06:17 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
The October 2006 issue of Xtreme RC Cars has a great review of the engine by none other than our very own mxwrench (Brian Kinney). You should check it out!
thanks for the heads-up on the review about this engine. sad to say, our local magazine stand that sell's rc magazine doesn't carry this issue
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:19 PM   #84
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here are some pictures of my osspeed tz 3p engine just after break in




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Old 09-24-2006, 06:21 PM   #85
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here are more pictures of my engine




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Old 11-19-2006, 10:24 PM   #86
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Default crankcase work

hey guys
just a question on the porting inside the crankcase justbelow where the liner sits..

would that porting do much a difference to performance?
on the weekend i broke the piston inside my stock tz and it made some tiny rough grooves just above the top of the crankshaft.

what i did was get the dremel and smooth out these marks and polished up inside the case. was this a good idea? ill try and upload some pics when i get home
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:54 AM   #87
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Last edited by ShermanSim; 12-19-2006 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:51 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
First question... Are you trying to break in the OS Speed TZ .12 or another motor??? Just had to ask that one... As for Cyrul's break in method, read Cyrul's method again.... You need the motor to be super rich both on the low speed needle and the high speed needle... Just having it fat on the top will not work... With both needles fat and set correctly... Adjust the idle screw so that the motor won't die... Then do the WOT as per Cyrul's mothod... You should run out of fuel very quickly... Don't even think of tuning the motor for racing the first day even if you've gone through 10-12 tanks of fuel... Take your time with the break in and heat cycle the motor between breakin tanks... You won't have any issues if you follow his directions and don't listen to every one at the track in your face telling you to lean it or it's ok to race the motor now... Remember, you'll breaking in a .12 motor and not a .21... They're smaller and requires alot more TLC... It could be the difference of having a 1 gallon motor with no nuts... as to a 4-plus gallon motor with some BALLS...
RC motors cost to much money to waste them breaking them in the wrong way... .02

RC_Alan
I just got my new OS Speed motor and I would like to break it in this way (it worked great on my OS TZ motor... But I want to be sure about something here. On Cyrul's site, he does not talk about running the Low End Needle... see: http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

Did he miss this part or what I'm I missing? Just asking...
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:31 PM   #89
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bvolts: the reason the low end is not mentioned is that it is set close at the factory, and the temps and fuel flow for break in is mainly regulated by the high speed needle. keep this fat and the temps in the correct range, and the low end should have plenty of lubrication. besides, using josh's method, the engine should be at wot (again - regulated by the high speed needle) most of the time.
hope this helps.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:22 PM   #90
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Default LSN question

yesterday, i swapped my palmaris engine with OS Speed, and i changed a pipe, so i need to retune my engine. then until today, i found out that there is this weird problem with the LSN, if u lean it too much, the whole throttle linkage doesn't want to move, its just stuck there. so i opened up the carb, clean everything, reinstall back, and its the same. so i would like to know if its the case for OS speed engine? coz for my palmaris, my LSN, i set it to very lean, only about 1/2 turn out (u lean it until the screw ends, then turn out by about 1/2 turn), but for my OS Speed, its not the case. can anyone share this?
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