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Old 07-08-2006, 07:29 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by madnitro
i found a website on line with pics of the O.S. The porting on the sleeve is insane...... http://www.rcdriver-online.com/index...article=369708
All they did was take a 5-port sleeve and convert it into a 3-port... Not very hard to do... Takes all of 5-10mins with a dremal tool... Swap in a 5 port crank and you're in the ball game... O.S. also raised the price on the 3 port sleeve... ie... It's now higher in price then the 5-port... I did the very same thing last night and put in about 10 tanks of fuel today... I had to really hold back.... The power on the top-end put a super big smile on my face and the sleeve is still super tight... Meaning there is alot more Top-end to come... I did alittle extra work on the crank, changed the con-rod and my sleeve looks exactly like the OS-Speed sleeve... You can spend $300.00 plus for a OS-Speed, M-Speed or Zeppin Racing motor... Or for a few dollars... Engine rebuild cost... 5-port crank, 5-port sleeve and con-rod... All of $80-90.00 dollars... If you already have a TZ and some time and the right tools, you can have your own mod'd TZ. That's what's makes the hobby so much fun... Building your own car.. Mod'ing your own motor and having your friends say... Wow.. What the $#[email protected] is that??? I just wished I had done that before the Nats... My TZ washed out due to a damaged piston... Oh well, you live and learn to play another day... The above info is just my .02 and alot of money saved...

RC_Alan

Last edited by rc_alan; 07-13-2006 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 07-08-2006, 10:40 PM   #17
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Im curious about the conversion of the 5 port you mention. Do you have some photos of your TZ after the mods?
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Old 07-08-2006, 11:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onthegas
Im curious about the conversion of the 5 port you mention. Do you have some photos of your TZ after the mods?
Basically, you take a diamond cutting bit on your dremel and cut out the "rib" that seperates the main side port and the booster port. Smooth out the edges with a polishing bit and you have a crazy moded 3 port. However I have to injecture that I HIGHLY doubt it takes 5 to 10 minutes previously mentioned unless you have super stable hands and been practicing on quite a few motors while turning a few into junk on accident. When you are cutting into the chrome you especially have to take care to ensure your hand doesn't wander. That's definitely a mod for the experienced or crazy.
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by onthegas
Im curious about the conversion of the 5 port you mention. Do you have some photos of your TZ after the mods?
No, I didn't take any photo's of the mod to the sleeve... I got the idea while at the lhs needing parts to rebuild my TZ... I had seen the OS speed sleeve already and had saved the pics on the shop owners PC. I told the shop owner of what I was going to do and he said, I have to see this... I was done in 10 mins and it looks just like a carbon copy of the OS speed sleeve... And the sleeve is in my RRR now... It's not very hard to do... You're just cutting a very small area on the both sides of the sleeve to have the sleeve mimick the 5-port in performance and touching up the exhaust port as well, but it's still 3-port legal... Smooth the edge's and make sure you don't scratch the chrome area of the sleeve & clean up your work... I'll post a pic of the 5 port and a pic of the OS-speed sleeve so you can get a good clear idea of what I'm talking about... Once you've seen both sleeve's you'll see how easy it is... Oh, Towerhobbies has the 5 port sleeve on sell for $40.00... Throw in the 5-port crank for $25.00... Why spend $400.00 for the OS-speed TZ .12 which is the listed price at Towerhobbies... I'll say this, the OS-speed crank was re-done and the wristpin issue on the crank has been corrected... But no one has that crank for sell at the moment... Always change the conrod with each engine rebuild..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKFC8&P=M
http://www.rcdriver-online.com/index...article=369708

Look at both sleeve's and you will see what I mean.. For someone new to the hobby and not sure about cutting a sleeve, I would not try that mod... Now for someone that has the proper tools and 5-10 mins of spear time... It's super easy and you'll be happy that you did... Remember, most of your performance gains will always come from the mod's you make to the crank... That's why the 5-port crank was used and then I work on it from there... You can leave it bone stock and still get a performance gain over the stock 3-port crank...

RC_Alan

Last edited by rc_alan; 07-09-2006 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Basically, you take a diamond cutting bit on your dremel and cut out the "rib" that seperates the main side port and the booster port. Smooth out the edges with a polishing bit and you have a crazy moded 3 port. However I have to injecture that I HIGHLY doubt it takes 5 to 10 minutes previously mentioned unless you have super stable hands and been practicing on quite a few motors while turning a few into junk on accident. When you are cutting into the chrome you especially have to take care to ensure your hand doesn't wander. That's definitely a mod for the experienced or crazy.
Very true... I have quite a few dead sleeve's and cranks laying around... They were already washed out from my RB x12 days... Back then, I would pay someone to mod my motor only to see that the work done/performance was just so so at best and I was out of $100.00... So I said, what the hell, I picked the brains a few experienced drivers that I knew worked on there own motors and went from there... Most peeps will never show you there work... They just put there work out there on the track and race... One important thing is key to performance and that is proper break in of the motor... It doesn't matter what kind of work was done to the motor, if it's not broken in properly, all the performance gains will be lost.

RC_Alan
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:38 AM   #21
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When you cut the sleeve, you will create burrs on the piston side. How do you eliminate them?
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onthegas
When you cut the sleeve, you will create burrs on the piston side. How do you eliminate them?

I don't have that problem... It takes practice and the right tools... I have lost a few sleeve's way back when, but they were already washed out... Take your time and you shouldn't have any burrs...

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Old 07-09-2006, 01:02 AM   #23
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Use this link... http://babelfish.altavista.com/

It's a translater... It will translate the rcdriver link from French to English or whatever translation is needed...

RC_Alan
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:38 PM   #24
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How does this engine compare to the JP FX 3M
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:43 AM   #25
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Yeah, as soon as the TZ Speed showed on the market I bought a TZ 5 port and did almost all mods that the TZ Speed shows in pictures...except for the crank....which in the TZ Speed has 8.0mm bore.....the TZ 5 port has 7.5mm.

To cut the bridge that separates the side horizontal port and the side vertical port, I used thin dremel cutting disc, with reduced diameter, then finishing touches with diamond files. Also widened the top side of exhaust port with cutting disc and files.
The mod on the low side of boost port on crankcase with dremel round green stone.
The mods on crankshaft timing and out coming ramp also with dremel appropriate stones, and made incoming ramp with high temp red 650 Permatex silicone. I will try boring the crank as the Speed's when I get the proper tooling.

Very important: use Mugen/Shimo P01002 pipe...it makes a big difference

Performance of my engine is AWESOME!!!!.... it has so much power that if Iím not careful with finger and negative exponential on throttle, car spins out like crazy....Iím learning again how to drive..jejejeje...I'm so happy with my new toy

AFM
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
Yeah, as soon as the TZ Speed showed on the market I bought a TZ 5 port and did almost all mods that the TZ Speed shows in pictures...except for the crank....which in the TZ Speed has 8.0mm bore.....the TZ 5 port has 7.5mm.

To cut the bridge that separates the side horizontal port and the side vertical port, I used thin dremel cutting disc, with reduced diameter, then finishing touches with diamond files. Also widened the top side of exhaust port with cutting disc and files.
The mod on the low side of boost port on crankcase with dremel round green stone.
The mods on crankshaft timing and out coming ramp also with dremel appropriate stones, and made incoming ramp with high temp red 650 Permatex silicone. I will try boring the crank as the Speed's when I get the proper tooling.

Very important: use Mugen/Shimo P01002 pipe...it makes a big difference

Performance of my engine is AWESOME!!!!.... it has so much power that if Iím not careful with finger and negative exponential on throttle, car spins out like crazy....Iím learning again how to drive..jejejeje...I'm so happy with my new toy

AFM
See folks... Mod'ing your own TZ-.12 made easy... The TZ can be made to be crazy fast with the right tools and a few extra dollars... Great post AFM... I knew when I first saw the OS speed's sleeve, I said to myself.... I can do that in a few mins...

RC_Alan
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
See folks... Mod'ing your own TZ-.12 made easy... The TZ can be made to be crazy fast with the right tools and a few extra dollars... Great post AFM... I knew when I first saw the OS speed's sleeve, I said to myself.... I can do that in a few mins...

RC_Alan
This weekend we have the third round of our National Championship and we'll see how it matches against the JP's, Mugen X 12's Nova's etc...and one driver that just got a TZ Speed......I'll let you know...

AFM
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Basically, you take a diamond cutting bit on your dremel and cut out the "rib" that seperates the main side port and the booster port. Smooth out the edges with a polishing bit and you have a crazy moded 3 port. However I have to injecture that I HIGHLY doubt it takes 5 to 10 minutes previously mentioned unless you have super stable hands and been practicing on quite a few motors while turning a few into junk on accident. When you are cutting into the chrome you especially have to take care to ensure your hand doesn't wander. That's definitely a mod for the experienced or crazy.
I recently did this mod to my 5 port. It was hard work. Took me more than an hour. The OS sleeve is very hard compared to Nova sleeves and is a bit harder to cut. The hardest part of this mod is after you remove the rib that seperates the transfer ports, to square off the top of the port without altering the port timing. You will need a diamond file for this rather than a dremel. The rest is pretty straight forward. I also removed approxiamately 2.5 mm of materail from the bottom of the sleeve from under the boost port with the green stone bit.

One thing you must do is smooth out all the edges so it fits back in the case. Also make sure there are no edged inside the sleeve so you dont ruin your piston.
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Old 07-10-2006, 09:11 PM   #29
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Have been waiting to ask but there is a notice inside the OS speed tuned owners manual that you should not use light oil between runs. It says that it will swell the silicone in the crank. What would you consider using? At this time I'm using straight castor oil after my runs.

let me know what you think.

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-10-2006, 09:34 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by picco007
Have been waiting to ask but there is a notice inside the OS speed tuned owners manual that you should not use light oil between runs. It says that it will swell the silicone in the crank. What would you consider using? At this time I'm using straight castor oil after my runs.

let me know what you think.

Thanks in advance
Any oil as long as it isn't mineral based (petroleum destilate)
I understand castor oil is vegetable based, so it should be Ok, You can use any synthetic oil also.

AFM
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