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Old 07-04-2007, 10:35 AM   #241
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Originally Posted by rc_alan View Post
No need to add shims... It's already shimmed to handle 30% nitro...

RC_Alan
great, and what about %16 nitro? If I use %16 should I remove some shim/ s.
The instrution is Japanes and cant understand anything. Has anyone in english?

thnx
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:45 PM   #242
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Hi,,
Has some one use this engine with %25 nitro? how many shims did you guys add for %25 nitro?

thnx
No need to shim this engine. It already has 2 sims installed from the factory. One shim is thicker than the other. If I remember it right, one is copper in color and the other is silver. Forgot which one is thicker thought. With the two shims installed, you can run the engine with up to 30% nitro. I ran my engine with both shims installed using a 25% nitro and it ran great. No problems so far (been running the engine for almost a year) As for running 16% nitro, you may want to remove 1 thinner shim but it depends again on the performance of the engine and the weather conditions. Why not run it with both shims installed and see how it runs. If you find the engine boggy, you can remove the thinner shim first and see how it runs...
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:30 PM   #243
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Originally Posted by doki_doki View Post
No need to shim this engine. It already has 2 sims installed from the factory. One shim is thicker than the other. If I remember it right, one is copper in color and the other is silver. Forgot which one is thicker thought. With the two shims installed, you can run the engine with up to 30% nitro. I ran my engine with both shims installed using a 25% nitro and it ran great. No problems so far (been running the engine for almost a year) As for running 16% nitro, you may want to remove 1 thinner shim but it depends again on the performance of the engine and the weather conditions. Why not run it with both shims installed and see how it runs. If you find the engine boggy, you can remove the thinner shim first and see how it runs...
thnx doki for the information.
But I thing you are talking about spec I. I have the new one. the spec II.
As you mentioned, the spec II has also this 2 shims. I think this is same as the spec I. Hope it is the same. if not ,the could damage.
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:39 PM   #244
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hi, i recently bought an os .12 tz(p)- t3

checked everything was ok, stook it in the car and went to start it and the whole thing locked up at the top of the piston, obviously it shows that the engine is well made and everything but i cant even start it, i have to phisically turn the engine over by hand and its very tight

has anyone else had this trouble

thanks

Matt
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Old 07-04-2007, 04:48 PM   #245
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Elation

That is perfectly normal with the TZ due to the tight factory fitting. get a hair dryer and heat up the engine till it reaches about 75-80 degrees. put in some after run oil as well to help lubricate the internals.

let the engine idle at low rpm for the first 1-2 tanks
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:16 PM   #246
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Thanks, I was a little concerned to be honest
Ill try what you suggested

Much Appreciated
Matt
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:35 PM   #247
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Originally Posted by CIMRI View Post
thnx doki for the information.
But I thing you are talking about spec I. I have the new one. the spec II.
As you mentioned, the spec II has also this 2 shims. I think this is same as the spec I. Hope it is the same. if not ,the could damage.
Well, what you can do is run the engine with the 2 shims. You are safer with this since the more shims you run on the engine, the higher the clearance from the glow plug to the pistion head thereby lesser chances of detonating the engine. This is the reason why you have to put more shims when running a higher nitro content fuel (example 25% or 30%). The higher the nitro content of the fuel, the more shims you add. Also it works the other way around. The lesser the nitro content of the fuel, the lesser shims you use (example 16% or 20%). So if you plan to run you engine with 16% nitro with the 2 shims in place, you are in the safe side of not having an early detonation. But again, you have to properly tune your engine also since shims are just one part of tuning your engine...
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:37 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elation View Post
hi, i recently bought an os .12 tz(p)- t3

checked everything was ok, stook it in the car and went to start it and the whole thing locked up at the top of the piston, obviously it shows that the engine is well made and everything but i cant even start it, i have to phisically turn the engine over by hand and its very tight

has anyone else had this trouble

thanks

Matt
This is due to the tight fit of the piston and sleeve at the top dead center. You may want to pre-heat your engine using a hair dryer to about 160F to 170F. You can also put a few drops of after run oil to lube the piston and sleeve making the engine easier to start also. After starting the engine, try not to remove the glow igniter immediately and let the engine run for a while with the igniter still attached to it...
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Old 07-04-2007, 11:05 PM   #249
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Hi Guys,

I run 25% on my Spec II with whatever shims that come with it, I didn't even check it. According to the manual, take out 1 shim if you are running 16% nitro.
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Old 07-05-2007, 01:05 AM   #250
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So just to confirm, 30% is ok with the Spec II? Out of the box.

What about plug usage is the P7 ok to use with 30%? I also run the OS Speed Vspec and it uses P3 with 30%

I've got one to install in my CRT.5 Truggy

"Turbines to Speed"

Neil.
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Old 07-05-2007, 03:37 PM   #251
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Originally Posted by Joehwee View Post
Hi Guys,

I run 25% on my Spec II with whatever shims that come with it, I didn't even check it. According to the manual, take out 1 shim if you are running 16% nitro.
Based on the Spec I, it came with 2 shims. I guess the Spec II also comes with 2 shims...
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Old 07-05-2007, 03:39 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McRae View Post
So just to confirm, 30% is ok with the Spec II? Out of the box.

What about plug usage is the P7 ok to use with 30%? I also run the OS Speed Vspec and it uses P3 with 30%

I've got one to install in my CRT.5 Truggy

"Turbines to Speed"

Neil.
You might want to stick with the P7 plug. I have used this plug on my Spec I running 25% nitro and so far the engine runs great. No problems so far for about a year now...
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:37 AM   #253
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I am using the Spec I Speed Tuned bottom end with a 5 Port Piston & Sleeve for my outlaw car. The Speed tuned comes with a P7 plug whereas the 5 Port is supplied with a P6.

What do you think I should run with my present combination?

P6 or P7?
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:10 PM   #254
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[QUOTE=V1-RRR-WC;3465263]I am using the Spec I Speed Tuned bottom end with a 5 Port Piston & Sleeve for my outlaw car. The Speed tuned comes with a P7 plug whereas the 5 Port is supplied with a P6.

What do you think I should run with my present combination?

P6 or P7?[/QUOTE}

From my experience in running the engine at our tracks, I was able to run the engine with a much leaner setting using the P7 plug compared to the P6 plug... I was also using a OSSpeed 1040 inline pipe for both plugs...
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:38 PM   #255
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[QUOTE=doki_doki;3465425]
Quote:
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC View Post
I am using the Spec I Speed Tuned bottom end with a 5 Port Piston & Sleeve for my outlaw car. The Speed tuned comes with a P7 plug whereas the 5 Port is supplied with a P6.

What do you think I should run with my present combination?

P6 or P7?[/QUOTE}

From my experience in running the engine at our tracks, I was able to run the engine with a much leaner setting using the P7 plug compared to the P6 plug... I was also using a OSSpeed 1040 inline pipe for both plugs...

Thanks for the info!
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