Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results
07-08-2007, 12:22 PM
#1351
Tech Rookie
Team Xray in the UK just ran an Orion for 6 hours straight in an endurance event at the Cotswold track. (www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk) They were running flat out for the whole 6 hours, along with several other cars with various engins. My car had a Plus 3c, which ran the last 2 hours without the pressure pipe attached, it started going lean and we wondered what it was, we only found out when the race finished.
These engins are more durable than they look
These engins are more durable than they look
07-10-2007, 08:40 PM
#1352
hi,guys.my engine loose compresion.when it is cold and i turn it with my hand,i am hearing a noise sssssssss,from the pipe and the piston is going in the top...i have make 3 litre with16% in this engine,it is normal?i must rebuilt it?
07-12-2007, 04:07 AM
#1353
Any help boys?>
07-12-2007, 10:47 AM
#1354
Tech Adept
You should open your engine and check the piston/sleeve condition.
3 liter is just about the right point where engine runs at its best.
Sounds like compression is gone, piston/sleeve has worn out.
There are several reasons why this could happen, it could be either not enough oiled or fallen of air filter, also too high temperature could cause high wear.
3 liter is just about the right point where engine runs at its best.
Sounds like compression is gone, piston/sleeve has worn out.
There are several reasons why this could happen, it could be either not enough oiled or fallen of air filter, also too high temperature could cause high wear.
07-13-2007, 06:40 AM
#1355
Tech Apprentice
Who tried the CRF Discovery Bag ?
07-13-2007, 09:56 PM
#1356
But, with the glow plug in, and with good lub in the sleeve, you hould have compresion.
Maybe what you have is an air leak?
07-14-2007, 01:17 AM
#1357
Look, the CRF is diferent from the traditional engine. Even on a never run CRF you can pass the piston all the way thru the sleeve. Well, at least my is like that.
But, with the glow plug in, and with good lub in the sleeve, you hould have compresion.
Maybe what you have is an air leak?
But, with the glow plug in, and with good lub in the sleeve, you hould have compresion.
Maybe what you have is an air leak?
i have 2 brand new crf piston/sleeve setand noone of them do this.
your engine is running good?[mine is really blog off]3 months before i had broke my crankcase in two pieces in a crash
when the engine broken,the rpm went high and then the engine stoped,did the piston/sleeve was damaged from this?and something last,what is the stantard setting for the lsn in turns...?
07-14-2007, 05:55 AM
#1359
quick question regarding the new Kyosho CRF pipes. which is better for bottom end the No.CRF88009 pipe (Muffler & Manifold Set (Long) or the No.CRF88008 Muffler & Manifold Set (Short)?
i always thought a short header = better low end, but i am confused now as it said on the kyosho japan site here that:
"Newly developed tapered manifold and special muffler extracts maximum potential of the X312T engine and eliminates stress as the engine goes through to maximum speed.
Use either the long manifold (CRF 88064) for extra torque or the short manifold (CRF 88063) for more POWER at the top end. Select the optimal manifold to suit the circuit layout".
i got the 88009 pipe and header combo, and i race on a fairly large track (the 2001 worlds track) is this pipe ok? also, if the CRF naturally has less bottom and more top as compared to other engines, would it be better to just go with a low end pipe combo?
http://translate.google.com/translat...BCRF%26hl%3Den
i always thought a short header = better low end, but i am confused now as it said on the kyosho japan site here that:
"Newly developed tapered manifold and special muffler extracts maximum potential of the X312T engine and eliminates stress as the engine goes through to maximum speed.
Use either the long manifold (CRF 88064) for extra torque or the short manifold (CRF 88063) for more POWER at the top end. Select the optimal manifold to suit the circuit layout".
i got the 88009 pipe and header combo, and i race on a fairly large track (the 2001 worlds track) is this pipe ok? also, if the CRF naturally has less bottom and more top as compared to other engines, would it be better to just go with a low end pipe combo?
http://translate.google.com/translat...BCRF%26hl%3Den
07-14-2007, 06:30 AM
#1360
Tom, you can use the Novarossi plugs, but the engines run extremely well on the CRF plugs (Kyosho or Orion they are the same thing).
As for the pipes, the longer the pipe (pipe and header combined length) then the more bottom end or torque. There is a lot of science to go along with that statement but that is the gist of it.
07-15-2007, 03:51 AM
#1361
Tom, you can use the Novarossi plugs, but the engines run extremely well on the CRF plugs (Kyosho or Orion they are the same thing).
As for the pipes, the longer the pipe (pipe and header combined length) then the more bottom end or torque. There is a lot of science to go along with that statement but that is the gist of it.
As for the pipes, the longer the pipe (pipe and header combined length) then the more bottom end or torque. There is a lot of science to go along with that statement but that is the gist of it.
07-15-2007, 05:08 AM
#1362
Hey Guys,
Well great news, i had my first competiton day with CRF WASp Josh Cyrul Combo deal...!
Now we got the tune sweet and no drams whats so ever, she stays on tune, doesnt rev da da da d ad ad ad a dad adadad da - nope none of that, good bottom end and top is pretty good aswell, i think i need more speed with gearing in my car thats another thing to sort out!!!
Run time, is good easy 5mins with 2 laps spare - FUEL 333 Massive Mods 'Scorpion 16%"
G4S UF0 CLUTCH black spring - 0.3 clutch gap all weights in
i even got my PB time ever of 21.0 shaved 0.4 not a huge differance, but enough as my driving still requires consitancy!!!
still running the No.6 plug that came with car and have been happy in how it performs!
highest temp ever was 243F once the track conditions imporved
early mornings it was lame 170F - 190F - too much wheel spin "Track WET"
how far can we push the engines with 16%? like what temps is danger ????
Well great news, i had my first competiton day with CRF WASp Josh Cyrul Combo deal...!
Now we got the tune sweet and no drams whats so ever, she stays on tune, doesnt rev da da da d ad ad ad a dad adadad da - nope none of that, good bottom end and top is pretty good aswell, i think i need more speed with gearing in my car thats another thing to sort out!!!
Run time, is good easy 5mins with 2 laps spare - FUEL 333 Massive Mods 'Scorpion 16%"
G4S UF0 CLUTCH black spring - 0.3 clutch gap all weights in
i even got my PB time ever of 21.0 shaved 0.4 not a huge differance, but enough as my driving still requires consitancy!!!
still running the No.6 plug that came with car and have been happy in how it performs!
highest temp ever was 243F once the track conditions imporved
early mornings it was lame 170F - 190F - too much wheel spin "Track WET"
how far can we push the engines with 16%? like what temps is danger ????
07-15-2007, 11:05 AM
#1363
Kodak ~
Good to hear that the engine is working out for you. Much better than the TZ, eh?
If you're going to tune by temp, keep it below 260 while you're practicing. In my experience, when you're pushing hard during race conditions, it may go slightly above that depending on how the temp/humidity changes by the time it's time for you to race. After a qualifier or race, take the temp as soon as possible to see where you're at. IMO, if you're above 270 after a race, you're starting to go too lean and you probably need to richen it a bit. If you're too lean, the engine will start to sound a certain way on throttle (really different - like a jerky "ha ha ha ha ha" or "hat hat hat hat" sound) and you should pull it off instead of continuing. Make sure to take the temp as soon as possible. If you accidentally go over 300, it's okay, but I wouldn't make it a habit.
Hope this helps.
BTW.. Are you tuning the idle/LSN using the Bobby Watson technique or are you using some other method?
Good to hear that the engine is working out for you. Much better than the TZ, eh?
If you're going to tune by temp, keep it below 260 while you're practicing. In my experience, when you're pushing hard during race conditions, it may go slightly above that depending on how the temp/humidity changes by the time it's time for you to race. After a qualifier or race, take the temp as soon as possible to see where you're at. IMO, if you're above 270 after a race, you're starting to go too lean and you probably need to richen it a bit. If you're too lean, the engine will start to sound a certain way on throttle (really different - like a jerky "ha ha ha ha ha" or "hat hat hat hat" sound) and you should pull it off instead of continuing. Make sure to take the temp as soon as possible. If you accidentally go over 300, it's okay, but I wouldn't make it a habit.
Hope this helps.
BTW.. Are you tuning the idle/LSN using the Bobby Watson technique or are you using some other method?
07-15-2007, 04:58 PM
#1364
Hi Guys, i would consider myself a veteran racer but a novice at Nitro Touring. Reading through a few pages here i noticed a "few" people having issues. I thought i would post on my GREAT experience over the weekned with the .12 CRF.
With a little help from zOOm with my clutch the motor ran well all weekend. No real issue what so ever. My best advice for anyone having issues is:
Take note of ANYTHING Nano posts on here, it actually works
Be patient with the motor, if you are not it will bite you. There is a sweet spot and once you get it the motor is brilliant.
Specs as follows.
G4+
Boost 16% Fuel
Orion spring, set as loose as possible.
One weight in each fly.
1.5 turns out on spray needle.
48.3mm to the bottom end needle (measured from end of spray needle)
Top end 4.3 turns out, may be a tad rich.
One a final note, a motor is only as good as its clutch setup. If your clutch setup is bad your motor will be bad. Dont blame a motor for you bad clutch setting.
Regards
Ari
With a little help from zOOm with my clutch the motor ran well all weekend. No real issue what so ever. My best advice for anyone having issues is:
Take note of ANYTHING Nano posts on here, it actually works
Be patient with the motor, if you are not it will bite you. There is a sweet spot and once you get it the motor is brilliant.
Specs as follows.
G4+
Boost 16% Fuel
Orion spring, set as loose as possible.
One weight in each fly.
1.5 turns out on spray needle.
48.3mm to the bottom end needle (measured from end of spray needle)
Top end 4.3 turns out, may be a tad rich.
One a final note, a motor is only as good as its clutch setup. If your clutch setup is bad your motor will be bad. Dont blame a motor for you bad clutch setting.
Regards
Ari
Last edited by OLD 69; 07-16-2007 at 01:07 AM.
07-15-2007, 10:34 PM
#1365
Nano Break in instructions
Richen it from the factory setting or use as is out of the box. Run it on the car and on the track right away, not on the starter box. Take it easy for the 2-3 first fuel tanks, only give blips at full power. Let it cool between the fuel tanks.
After 3-4 fuel tanks you can start adjusting it to get the performance out. The LSN should need only small adjustements from the factory settings, the HSN usually needs leaning out a bit.
Nano
i thought i'd bump these instructions for anyone who is getting the new Kyosho CRF.
Richen it from the factory setting or use as is out of the box. Run it on the car and on the track right away, not on the starter box. Take it easy for the 2-3 first fuel tanks, only give blips at full power. Let it cool between the fuel tanks.
After 3-4 fuel tanks you can start adjusting it to get the performance out. The LSN should need only small adjustements from the factory settings, the HSN usually needs leaning out a bit.
Nano
i thought i'd bump these instructions for anyone who is getting the new Kyosho CRF.