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Old 08-31-2007, 02:55 AM   #1441
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mjthompson,

Check the factory settings and your engine should work with these. If it does not then there is a problem, fuel supply, glow plug or whatever.
We have never had a properly installed functional CRF engine not working with the factory settings. Also do you have the updated HSN holder and eventually bigger bore carburator body, these help with the tune.

The issue is not only spring preload, it's the spring, weights, shoe, spacing and clutch bell you are using. Any of these is wrong, the engine won't work right and be impossible to tune properly.

The right shiming is to use the silver 0.1mm spacer.

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Old 08-31-2007, 10:27 AM   #1442
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Default needle setting

Question-a friend of mine let me borrow his CRF and I can't seem to get it tuned properly. Could someone tell me the approximate needle settings. Right now I have 4 turns out on the HSN and 2 turns out on LSN. The problem that I'm having is the the car idles so low that it takes a couple of blips on the throttle to get the idle up, so low end sucks. I'm using skyline pipe and the CRF clutch. I'm not too sure of the type of plug, or how many shims on the head, and I'm using 30% mugen fuel.
Also, I think this is an older version
Thanks
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:34 PM   #1443
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Originally Posted by blanks596 View Post
Question-a friend of mine let me borrow his CRF and I can't seem to get it tuned properly. Could someone tell me the approximate needle settings. Right now I have 4 turns out on the HSN and 2 turns out on LSN. The problem that I'm having is the the car idles so low that it takes a couple of blips on the throttle to get the idle up, so low end sucks. I'm using skyline pipe and the CRF clutch. I'm not too sure of the type of plug, or how many shims on the head, and I'm using 30% mugen fuel.
Also, I think this is an older version
Thanks
If it's the original, you want a total of 0.3mm head shims to run with 30% nitro. If it's available, O'Donnell would be better than Mugen because of the oil content. For plug, the CRF6 is a good starting point. With the original carb, try 4 turns out on the LSN and 5.5 on the HSN.

For idling or high rev'ing off-throttle problems, try the Bobby Watson method (click here) for setting the idle.

Here is some advice from mxwrench on how to run the original CRF:
http://www.teamorion.com/FAQ/Wasp+Rev+CRF+Tuning

After the engine warms-up out on the track, check the idle and make sure it comes down right away after you blip the throttle. Temp wise, I like how it performs at 260F while tuning on my track. Below 240F and you're probably running to lean. After a qualifier or main, you want to be sure your temp is 280F or below. Anything above that and you're starting to go too lean.

Once you've learned how to read this engine - warm or cold, it's kind of easy to adjust the needles to anticipate how it's going to run once it has fully warmed up. Just be patient, listen to what the motor is telling you and you'll get it right.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:33 AM   #1444
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just a few pics of my WASP engine

done 4 litres of fuel - still struggling to get max power out of this sucker - ran it last meet in last heat at 145 degrees eek she was a tab warm

what ya think of the internals?

I have no real idea LOL
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Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-pictures-029.jpg   Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-pictures-022.jpg   Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-pictures-030.jpg   Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-pictures-027.jpg  
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:59 AM   #1445
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Hi Frankie,

Combustion chamber seems to be so much dark coloured.. Mine has a light brown color after a race weekend.. If we read the plug it says mixture is lean (as far as it seems from the picture) Also it's better to check inside of liner if there is any scratchs..

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Old 09-03-2007, 07:01 AM   #1446
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Hi Frankie,

Combustion chamber seems to be so much dark coloured.. Mine has a light brown color after a race weekend.. If we read the plug it says mixture is lean (as far as it seems from the picture) Also it's better to check inside of liner if there is any scratchs..

Asil
Hey Champ no scatches on the inside of linear - yeah she did run around 145degrees inlast final, but besides that its been running mostly rich - but still havent been satisified with engine - the NOVA's are still kickin arse
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:12 AM   #1447
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Frankie,

If gearing and clutch adj. is OK you won't believe your eyes with this engine..
CRF loves a lower gear ratio.. Last race meeting in Bursa, I chose the wrong 2nd gear spur and it was not fast at the straight, I just changed to a higher 2nd gear spur and wow, what a difference!!!


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Old 09-03-2007, 07:32 AM   #1448
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Hey Asil,

I ran Standard ED Trans in the Team Magic G4S -

51/16
46/21

Red Clutch Shoe
Black Spring Clutch
All the weights in Clutch

maybe its the clutch setup - seems to be a bit slugish down low and top end, the Novas just go straight past me

MMhhhh dunno some say its quick others say its average
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:44 AM   #1449
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Frankie,

I have no experience with ED yet.. Maybe Nano have some ideas??

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Old 09-04-2007, 12:39 AM   #1450
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Quote:
I ran Standard ED Trans in the Team Magic G4S -

51/16
46/21

Red Clutch Shoe
Black Spring Clutch
All the weights in Clutch

maybe its the clutch setup - seems to be a bit slugish down low and top end, the Novas just go straight past me
Hi, not sure waht is your track size,
but the following will work well:

51/16
46/20
Black clutch shoe
all weights in clutch
Black spring (i feel the spring tension become weak after a few run, try Orion square spring or Mugen S.hard spring)
Gap 0.5mm

Also the Aluminum clutchbell is not very good as compare to steel, alu produce too much slip thus increase heat and wear out the clutch shoe very fast.
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:04 AM   #1451
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Well after 7 Nationals and 1 European championship my CRF bearings finally let go. Any special tips on changing them out?

Do people preferr the heating up method or using the special tools to remove bearings?
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:57 AM   #1452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitbits View Post
Well after 7 Nationals and 1 European championship my CRF bearings finally let go. Any special tips on changing them out?

Do people preferr the heating up method or using the special tools to remove bearings?
Heating up works just fine. Comes out and goes in pretty easily.
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:32 AM   #1453
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thanks rmd-as far as the glow plugs, are the novarossi turbo plugs ok to use on these engines?
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Old 09-05-2007, 01:38 PM   #1454
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thanks rmd-as far as the glow plugs, are the novarossi turbo plugs ok to use on these engines?
Sorry, I wouldn't know. I always cough up the money and use the manufacturer's plugs for all my engines.
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Old 09-05-2007, 03:34 PM   #1455
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Today I tried the Murnan CRF at our indoor track with a CRF #5 plug and a Novarossi one and think that the Nova one has a bit more power at the same temperatur. Up to now I ever used the CRF ones and had no problems at all.
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