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Old 06-20-2007, 11:27 AM   #1276
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Originally Posted by uniquexme View Post
ok, i will try to tighten it down to 1.6+ to see how, as its the only stuffs i have in my hand, but i will oso get the orion super hard spring next month. thanks guys.
Bud run the g4s clutch with 1 weight in teh flyweights and use the 1.8 black spring or mugen hard spring.
When you running after every few laps bring the car in and adjust teh clutch tension by 1/4 turn at a time untill you get its how you like it.
A lot of guys always look at the measure ment of pre load but is confusing and not a good way to set up teh clutch.
As you tighten it it will come to a point where teh clutch will slip then back it off 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
But best is to run the car and try the adjustments.
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Old 06-20-2007, 06:37 PM   #1277
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uniquexme - hey, I tested my crf engine with the kfactory clutch today. It does not have any overheating problems. Still need adjustment for low end power tho.

I use the black kfactory spring with the kfactory red clutch shoe(hard type) with all the weights.
1.65 spring tension
.55 clutch gap
.1 endplay

Oh try to use the crf plug too... I think they have it set up so it runs smoother with their plug
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Old 06-20-2007, 07:23 PM   #1278
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heh everyone, thank you for all your advise, i need those badly. keke.. kmaheartless, (no heart?). hehe... i will try to tighten the spring tension furtherdown, i guess its not tight enough. hiaks.
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Old 06-20-2007, 07:58 PM   #1279
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Fact is that it's not only the spring, it's also about the weights, the shoe and the gap you use. Using a stiffer spring will help, but might not solve all your problems.

Also bear in mind that because the CRF spring is longer, on the G4, I had to use a 0.8mm spacer between the flywheel and flywheel nut to lengthen the distance between the flywheel and flywheel nut extremity, otherwise you can screw the adjust nut on the flywheel nut.

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wht u mean really don't understand got any picture show us thank
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:11 PM   #1280
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Originally Posted by Nano View Post
Fact is that it's not only the spring, it's also about the weights, the shoe and the gap you use. Using a stiffer spring will help, but might not solve all your problems.

Also bear in mind that because the CRF spring is longer, on the G4, I had to use a 0.8mm spacer between the flywheel and flywheel nut to lengthen the distance between the flywheel and flywheel nut extremity, otherwise you can screw the adjust nut on the flywheel nut.

Nano
do u mean we use 1 more adjust nut to screw in between flywheel and flywheel nut? then later use another adjust nut to screw onto the spring? but may i ask y would u want to lengthen this distance?
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:44 PM   #1281
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Originally Posted by uniquexme View Post
heh everyone, thank you for all your advise, i need those badly. keke.. kmaheartless, (no heart?). hehe... i will try to tighten the spring tension furtherdown, i guess its not tight enough. hiaks.
also look at 1st gear gearing. with standard tranny 18/52 is good with 18 brake and 18 side pulley.
With ED 15/52 or 15/51 owuld be good gearing to start with.
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Old 06-22-2007, 05:59 AM   #1282
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The CRF spring uses square wire, this has been especially made for CRF after extensive testing. The weights and the shoe also use very high quality materials and have been extensively tested. These are guaranteed to work well with high power engines like the WASP CRF. This is the same stuff we use everyday to test our engines, and it allows us to test without having to care about the clutch.
Again you can take the best engine in the world, CRF or other, and you will totally kill it's performance if you install a bad clutch on it.
Lack of low end power is a typical sign of a clutch that is too soft.

For the spring tension I haven't seen a decent clutch build using the CRF spring with less than 1.4-1.5mm spring preload.

What I was saying on my particular G4S is that the CRF spring was longer than the original spring, therefore no matter how hard I pushed on the spring adjust nut, I could not get it to engage on the flyhweel nut threads. So I added a spacer like on this drawing.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results-nut.jpg  
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Old 06-22-2007, 06:43 AM   #1283
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can someone elaborate on the design changes made to the kyosho crf over the original grey head crf? or are they the same?
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Old 06-22-2007, 07:20 AM   #1284
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Thank you Nano,will try tomorrow


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano View Post
The CRF spring uses square wire, this has been especially made for CRF after extensive testing. The weights and the shoe also use very high quality materials and have been extensively tested. These are guaranteed to work well with high power engines like the WASP CRF. This is the same stuff we use everyday to test our engines, and it allows us to test without having to care about the clutch.
Again you can take the best engine in the world, CRF or other, and you will totally kill it's performance if you install a bad clutch on it.
Lack of low end power is a typical sign of a clutch that is too soft.

For the spring tension I haven't seen a decent clutch build using the CRF spring with less than 1.4-1.5mm spring preload.

What I was saying on my particular G4S is that the CRF spring was longer than the original spring, therefore no matter how hard I pushed on the spring adjust nut, I could not get it to engage on the flyhweel nut threads. So I added a spacer like on this drawing.
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:57 AM   #1285
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http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=18659
is this engine from rcmart, the real deal or a fake? how can you tell?
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:05 AM   #1286
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Frankie, this is the earlier version I think.. please search for Wasp 2007 spec engine..




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Old 06-25-2007, 07:23 AM   #1287
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Frankie, this is the earlier version I think.. please search for Wasp 2007 spec engine..




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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLVV7&P=DS

what about this one, there bloody cheap and i am ken to know the differance anyone can show examples of fake and original?
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:49 PM   #1288
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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLVV7&P=DS

what about this one, there bloody cheap and i am ken to know the differance anyone can show examples of fake and original?
There are no fake engines floating around. What you see at tower is probably the original or the original with the first update (needle holder, carb body, carb insert). Unfortunately, Team Orion did not change the part number for the first minor revision.

The part number you want is below:

PART # ORI80600 WASP Rev CRF 2007 available March 2007

Also keep in mind, that Kyosho will be selling their version of the CRF very shortly. I haven't heard of a timeframe for it's release, so I'm not sure how long you would have to wait. As I understand it, this version is slightly different as well.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:36 PM   #1289
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I think at least an '06 Cyrul spec would be the earliest engine you would want to go for. When buying part number #ORI80000, ensure the seller can verify that the box is marked 'cyrul spec'.

Frankie, you might want to check with your LHS as HEI(Australian distributor) has these at a reduced price to the shops. May not be as cheap as the tower one but you will know what you are getting.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:41 PM   #1290
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Did Josh Cyrul use an Orion Wasp CRF in the A main at the 2007 Capitol Classic @ 301 Raceway, which was held earlier this month?
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