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Old 06-07-2007, 05:28 AM   #1246
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Janisk - Hey thanks for the advice! But how do you determine which gear ratio works best for the crf? Is there a math formula that you can share? Do you mean the 1.8mm yellow spring? I dont think they have a black one.
K-Factory Push type Clutch Spring (1.8mm Black,Harder less coils) k1497-14 and K-Factory UFO Push Type Clutch Shoes RED k1497-6

Yellow spring is ~9,8mm
Crf clutch spring (ORI88680) is ~8.1mm
I found crf clutch spring to be a bit softer than k-factory black spring, and bit harder than yellow spring

About gear Ratio - no, i dont have any specific math formul, i simply us what seems to give the best performance, in case of CRF, thats quite low ratio (7.2 for 1st and ~5.2 for 2nd gear)
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Old 06-07-2007, 03:18 PM   #1247
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Hi, no worries, everything sounds normal. As long as you have the conical carburator insert fitted on the carburator (old 2006 has cup shaped carburator insert), then it means you have the right engine.
Where did you buy the engine from?^^
Finaly my engine is the old one...i buy it from greece,from http://www.rchobbyathens.com/.thanks for the help anyway Nano!
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Old 06-07-2007, 03:19 PM   #1248
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"p

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Old 06-07-2007, 03:27 PM   #1249
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:53 PM   #1250
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I m running ED system with 16/21 fitted, and 52/47. i think i might try to change to the KF black spring and red cluth shoe, do u think its neccessary to oso change to the red centrifugal shoes?
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:42 PM   #1251
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I m running ED system with 16/21 fitted, and 52/47. i think i might try to change to the KF black spring and red cluth shoe, do u think its neccessary to oso change to the red centrifugal shoes?
I have found running the 16/20 with the 52/47 to be the best combo for our track with the CRF in the G4S. I run the orion clutch update parts for the UFO clutch. I have also run the standard clutch parts with the black spring and standard shoes with 1 weight removed from the flyweights. Keep the clutch gap low (around .4) and then just tune the spring preload.

As arr see car said, we had a good result with the Orion engines at our recent state titles. I must confess I even ran the whole weekend with a piston and liner set that had eaten a glow plug coil to see what would happen - turns out it still worked fine!! Quite a remarkable engine really. I also used the liner shims and found some good power gains.
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:35 PM   #1252
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Hello

These are the screws that I was talking about. They are not fully tightened to the combustion chamber and the crankcase and it was like this when I received it. This is my first engine from Orion, so I am not sure if I should screw them down or not.

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:40 PM   #1253
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Hello

These are the screws that I was talking about. They are not fully tightened to the combustion chamber and the crankcase and it was like this when I received it. This is my first engine from Orion, so I am not sure if I should screw them down or not.

Thanks!
thats the way it should be, dun worry. haha. dun overtighten it else, hehe, i heard few ppl overtightened their heatsink screw till it snaps, this might damage the crankcase.
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Old 06-07-2007, 11:41 PM   #1254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaheartless View Post
Hello

These are the screws that I was talking about. They are not fully tightened to the combustion chamber and the crankcase and it was like this when I received it. This is my first engine from Orion, so I am not sure if I should screw them down or not.

Thanks!
comb.chamber screws are to be tightened to 0.9 Nm in cross pattern and head screws to 1.0 Nm again in cross pattern.. you have to use torque screwdriver..

Asil
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Old 06-07-2007, 11:50 PM   #1255
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comb.chamber screws are to be tightened to 0.9 Nm in cross pattern and head screws to 1.0 Nm again in cross pattern.. you have to use torque screwdriver..

Asil
heh, can u show us the torque screwdriver? its cool, i wonder how it looks like, can get one oso. haha. thanks.
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Old 06-08-2007, 01:07 AM   #1256
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in fact I don't have one here in Istanbul, one of our friends has got one and it's way too expensive.. something like 250 ... It's like a screwdriver that you may adjust it via turning it's head to the desired torque value.. Torque wrenches which have a range of 40-200 Nm are much more cheaper than this one

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Old 06-08-2007, 03:29 AM   #1257
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ok than, but is that Euro250?
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Old 06-08-2007, 03:39 AM   #1258
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yes


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Old 06-08-2007, 09:30 AM   #1259
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This is an example, it's not the one we use though.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ges/torkit.php

The screws are a little tight but not locked in place, if you lock them then they will be too tight and creates mechanical stresses on the crankcase and screw up the piston/liber alignement.

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Old 06-09-2007, 04:01 AM   #1260
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Hi Nano,

Thank's for the link.
I have find this other.
http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/285serie.htm

What's the recommended force to apply at the button head?

Octavio Traver
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