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Old 05-24-2007, 03:48 PM   #1201
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hi nano,
did you have the part number for me

dieter
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:29 PM   #1202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4racer
hi nano,
did you have the part number for me

dieter
Dieter ~ This is what I've updated on my original CRF:

ORI81313 Wasp CRF .12 Carburetor Case w/Insulator
ORI81317 Wasp CRF .12 Needle Holder
ORI81357 CNC Combustion chamber
ORI81358 Big Carb inlet

The only new part not listed above are:

ORI88550 Double fuel inlet
ORI81359 CNC back plate
ORI81322 Wasp CRF .12 Diffuser "A" (Update version, which I replaced with the Big Carb inlet)

If you change out the carb, you need to be aware of the new needle settings, which are shown here: http://www.teamorion.com/FAQ/Wasp+Rev+CRF+Tuning

Also, you need to use 0.3mm total head shims with the new CNC Combustion chamber. Original CRF came with 2 head shims totalling 0.3mm, so you want to be sure you have those.

I'm not sure if the new CNC back plate available yet, but that would be something to consider getting as well.

According to what Nano previously posted, the latest crankcase and piston sleeve have some minor revisions as well.

Hope this helps
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:21 PM   #1203
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Nano,

Can you inform us of the benefits (or otherwise) of using the sleeve timing spacer set (ORI81349). What characteristics can we expect from raising the sleeve to alter the timing?
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:05 AM   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Nano,

Can you inform us of the benefits (or otherwise) of using the sleeve timing spacer set (ORI81349). What characteristics can we expect from raising the sleeve to alter the timing?
The idea is that by adding shims underneath the liner you can change the port timings slightly and increase top end.
When you use these shims you have to remove the same amount of shims underneath the button head so that the clearance with the piston remains the same.
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:28 PM   #1205
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Nano,

Can you please confirm if the conical head button requires 0.3mm shims for 16%. I have been using 0.1 with the original button.

Simon
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Old 05-27-2007, 07:11 AM   #1206
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Guys, i managed to get this 06 wasp running yesterday!! we found out that the "bloobling" problem with car unwilling to move at start is solved by tightening the clutch spring further down, i think around 1.0-1.5. But can i check with you guys, is it ok for this type of setting whereby the engine rpm rev a little high before the clutch is engaged? coz i understand that it will be slightly faster, but also hotter engine, will it cause any damage? coz its the 1st time that i tried running with higher rpm clutch engagement. thanks.

oh yah, above problem solved, but me and my frenz wasp seems to be reluctant to stay at idle. it dies off after few seconds of idle (about 5-8 sec). we tried leaning the idle needle but still the same. keke..
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:43 AM   #1207
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Hi Nano and all,
Yesterday, I broke in the engine (ABI). After the break in procedure and when we started leaning it out gradually, I was surprised by the top end power. The bottom end was as any other engine I have tried until now.
The setup was: new combustion chamber with 0.3mm spacer, big venturi, the centax parts that come with the engine (MTX4) with 1.65 spring preload and 0.5 gap with no end play. I also used the fuel splitter.
I was very satisfied with the engine and the centax was ballistic.
However, I noticed a strange thing and I suppose that someone else asked the same in another post.
When you start the engine, it does not rev up. OK, I can wait 2, 3 sec, as you answered in the previous post. Then it clears and no problem at all. After 5 minutes and after the refuel, the same thing happens. The engine does not rev up and suddenly after 2 , 3 sec everything is perfect again. It happened multiple times at the refuel. Nowhere else. Just after the engine reved up no problem. I tried to stop and wait for a few seconds on idle. After I pulled the trigger the car left like a rocket. My concern is that during the final, I have to pit 5 times.
What you believe I did wrong or how I can improve it? I have to mention that the tuning "seemed" perfect.
Thanks in advance
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:40 PM   #1208
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Hi Nano and all,
I also broke in my engine yesterday, 80000 CRF Wasp REV .12 Cyrul Spec. I followed the instruction for the break in. After 4 tanks I started to lean the HSN, Iím very impressed with the top speed. I am using 30% Rocket Science fuel. The car is a Kyosho rrr, I lightened the clutch weights with a 3.5mm drill and set the 1.9mm spring to 1.4mm, with 0.5 mm clutch gap. I have a Skyline VR12 plus. The HSN is 4 turns out, minus one hour. I then started leaning the bottom end, while monitoring the acceleration from a standing start. Also performed the pinch test. I ended up at 47.88mm. I think both of these numbers are close to the recommended value!
OK the questions that I have are:
1) When I start the motor from cold it will not respond to the throttle being opened, in fact it wants to stop. I have to keep the glow igniter on for 10-20 seconds after it has started and try and coax it into life, as it warms up everything is OK, and it responds to the throttle well.
2) Idle is good, and acceleration from a standing start is also good, however if I drive at part throttle it doesnít hold a constant rpm. I think it is too rich in the mid range, maybe going from a two to a four stroke. When I drive the car at full throttle and immediately bring it to a stop the motor immediately assumes the idling rpm, and this doesnít change. I think this implies that I have the mixture pretty close. Also when I give the car full throttle it picks up immediately and heads off like a scalded cat. Do I need to consider a different insert in the carb? If so can you give me the part number? Is it ROAR legal? I had my best time disqualified at the Speedline GP for running an illegal pipe, being new to touring cars I had no idea that it was illegal, and it was a brand new pipe Thank you very much for your help
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Old 05-28-2007, 06:30 PM   #1209
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i think u guys need to tighten the clutch spring further down. i believe thats the problem with wasp, everyone that i spoke to are saying that it needs a higher rpm to be a beast. keke...

my other problem is idling.. somehow, it doesnt like to idle properly and dies off.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:14 PM   #1210
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Thanks, but I think my clutch is tightened down enough, it sure revs before it takes off, especially before it has got up to temp
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:22 PM   #1211
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hmm, how about your mixture screw? coz my frenz 07 wasp, at 1st he started with the setting as described at orion website, but can't be tuned, problem still existed, so i follow the setting as per page 21 or 25 on this site, with HSN 6, LSN 4-1/4, Mixture 1/2, and then fine tune it. so we actually spend 2 days at track figuring out this problem, and now his (johnhsp) is now fixed, no more problem. hope it helps, oh yah, 1 more thing that he did was i ask him to change back to stock centax, and tightened around 1.0-1.5mm down, coz when he used the supplied centax, it seems to be a problem.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:31 AM   #1212
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what was whether temp and final HSN setting after fine tuning?

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Old 05-29-2007, 12:42 AM   #1213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etgdpu
Hi Nano and all,
Yesterday, I broke in the engine (ABI). After the break in procedure and when we started leaning it out gradually, I was surprised by the top end power. The bottom end was as any other engine I have tried until now.
The setup was: new combustion chamber with 0.3mm spacer, big venturi, the centax parts that come with the engine (MTX4) with 1.65 spring preload and 0.5 gap with no end play. I also used the fuel splitter.
I was very satisfied with the engine and the centax was ballistic.
However, I noticed a strange thing and I suppose that someone else asked the same in another post.
When you start the engine, it does not rev up. OK, I can wait 2, 3 sec, as you answered in the previous post. Then it clears and no problem at all. After 5 minutes and after the refuel, the same thing happens. The engine does not rev up and suddenly after 2 , 3 sec everything is perfect again. It happened multiple times at the refuel. Nowhere else. Just after the engine reved up no problem. I tried to stop and wait for a few seconds on idle. After I pulled the trigger the car left like a rocket. My concern is that during the final, I have to pit 5 times.
What you believe I did wrong or how I can improve it? I have to mention that the tuning "seemed" perfect.
Thanks in advance
I had the same problem. Its starvation of fuel at the low and middle end. Try richening up the low needle and backing out the middle 1/4 turn. That solved it for me

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Old 05-29-2007, 02:30 AM   #1214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
I had the same problem. Its starvation of fuel at the low and middle end. Try richening up the low needle and backing out the middle 1/4 turn. That solved it for me

Cheers
Thanks Ziggy,
I will try it next weekend and I will let you know.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:47 AM   #1215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etgdpu
Thanks Ziggy,
I will try it next weekend and I will let you know.
I tried richen LSN, but lack of power, so i played with slightly higher gear ratio for 1st gear. but still it seems wasp is lacking low end power, BUT long straight is really fast. keke.
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