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Old 05-22-2006, 12:48 AM   #91
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:53 AM   #92
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We invited our Spanish distributor over at the CRF track to get his first Wasp Rev CRF motor. Least to say he was impressed...
Check his website for some info in Spanish and a couple videos (brand new engine, first 2 fuel tanks).

http://www.tecrotec.com/index.php?op...article&sid=90
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:57 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano
We invited our Spanish distributor over at the CRF track to get his first Wasp Rev CRF motor. Least to say he was impressed...
Check his website for some info in Spanish and a couple videos (brand new engine, first 2 fuel tanks).

http://www.tecrotec.com/index.php?op...article&sid=90
Use this for a rough translation if you don't speak Spanish:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:38 AM   #94
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I read the CRF manual and it looks like these motors are broken-in with just 4 tanks of fuel. Thats amazing. It even says to avoid basically breaking in longer than this or running overly rich settings or low speeds for too long.

Josh did you do anything different on your break-in? Or did you follow the manual on this one?

So im reading you should just take the motor and run it at top speed for 1-2 second bursts on the track right of the bat first tank. Then each tank you lean it a notch until you reach good top-speed and 4 tanks.

Then go in for your final adjustment.

I love it.
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Old 05-22-2006, 06:19 AM   #95
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rmdhawaii - There are more parts listed there than I use on my car. My RRR is stock except for the following items:

Optional Kyosho stiff chassis
Aluminum Kyosho brake arm
Ti Bevel Shafts for the Diff
Hollow center shaft
3Racing radio tray mounts

Artificial-I - I followed their breakin procedure. We ran a total of five tanks, driving the engine a little harder each time and leaning it a little more each time. By the 5th tank, the engine was tuned in and I was running full punched.
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Old 05-22-2006, 09:35 AM   #96
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Also, here's the info on my clutch set-up from the testing last week at CRF:

Kyosho Grey Shoe
Kyosho 4D Hard Clutch Spring
1.4mm Pre-Load
Kyosho Standard Clutch Weights
.5mm Gap from clutch shoe to clutch bell when fully extended
.2mm End Play
Kyosho Standard RRR flywheel
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:28 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul
rmdhawaii - There are more parts listed there than I use on my car. My RRR is stock except for the following items:

Optional Kyosho stiff chassis
Aluminum Kyosho brake arm
Ti Bevel Shafts for the Diff
Hollow center shaft
3Racing radio tray mounts

Artificial-I - I followed their breakin procedure. We ran a total of five tanks, driving the engine a little harder each time and leaning it a little more each time. By the 5th tank, the engine was tuned in and I was running full punched.
Thanks Josh! What's the advantage to having the 3Racing radio tray mounts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul
Also, here's the info on my clutch set-up from the testing last week at CRF:

Kyosho Grey Shoe
Kyosho 4D Hard Clutch Spring
1.4mm Pre-Load
Kyosho Standard Clutch Weights
.5mm Gap from clutch shoe to clutch bell when fully extended
.2mm End Play
Kyosho Standard RRR flywheel
Thanks! That's good to know when we bolt on the WASP Rev to the RRR!

BTW RRR guys, the 4D Hard Clutch Spring is the stock spring on the standard RRR and the WCE.
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:39 AM   #98
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If anyone stumbles across a Web site with the engine and the plugs in-stock, please PM me!

I have to replace my OS .12 TZ before June 4th.
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Old 05-22-2006, 11:25 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
If anyone stumbles across a Web site with the engine and the plugs in-stock, please PM me!

I have to replace my OS .12 TZ before June 4th.
Whats wrong with your OS TZ?
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Old 05-22-2006, 11:32 AM   #100
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We can saw it last saturday in a CochesRc.com race, and it is really impressive. You can see the photos in www.cochesrc.com (comments in spanish).

Best regards
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:31 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Whats wrong with your OS TZ?
Same problems as aways. Changed to a P7 plug from a P3 two races ago and still have more than enough power on our local track, but the engine is running too rich and I can't lean it out without it going too lean. I was fussing with it all day yesterday and it was just way too unreliable. Sometimes it was running just fine - and then at other times it would just load-up and die or start to lean out too much after running fine in practice or the previous heat. It was really annoying. Front bearing seal has started to leak, which just makes matter worse. Parts are not available locally, so I have to order them.

When the planets are properly aligned, it runs perfect - lots of low-end power (now that I got the Skyline V12Plus pipe) and very fast on the straight. It was running just fine with the P3, except that run time was an issue once I changed my driving style.

It could be that it's just my particular engine - or more likely, just me. Some people just don't get along with certain engines. If I could run my engine on non-race days, then I could actually go through the process of troubleshooting the problem - but I don't have that luxury. Right now, I just want something that I can count on for the next race that can last more than 4 minutes.

It's too bad that Uriah isn't my next door neighbor.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:01 PM   #102
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RMD, sounds like you have an air leak mixed with an improper shimmed head.
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Old 05-22-2006, 07:13 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
RMD, sounds like you have an air leak mixed with an improper shimmed head.
Thanks. I got a number of PMs on what to check, so I'll be tearing it apart. I hope it's something obvious.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 05-23-2006, 11:05 PM   #104
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wow, i might make this my next engine simply because of the easy break in process...
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:34 PM   #105
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I want one, I need a nice new motor....
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