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Old 03-25-2007, 06:10 AM   #1021
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I think they are basicaly the same engine, same carb specs. This is the new name of the Cyrul spec: Rev 12 2007 or Brisbane replica.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:55 AM   #1022
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Originally Posted by deepfree_z
I think they are basicaly the same engine, same carb specs. This is the new name of the Cyrul spec: Rev 12 2007 or Brisbane replica.
I have the Murnan Wasp, and the thing is soo fast, I can't control it, plus it chews up my tires. Maybe my clutch is to heavy?
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:14 PM   #1023
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Default I told Yah

If you think that was fast, i tested the Full Ceramic Murnan CRF.The motor was perfect runtime around 5;30.I could kept up with a 1/8 scale, with the ceramic Crf version.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:03 PM   #1024
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can anyone help me my crf keeps on killing glow plugs the temp is fine(250) has lots of power but as soon as i finish running for 5 min and cut the car off it kills the glow plug and what are the needle settings for the new carb
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:31 PM   #1025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deviltires
can anyone help me my crf keeps on killing glow plugs the temp is fine(250) has lots of power but as soon as i finish running for 5 min and cut the car off it kills the glow plug and what are the needle settings for the new carb
You can find the settings for the new carb at Team Orion's Web site:
http://teamorion.com/FAQ/Wasp+Rev+CRF+Tuning
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:33 AM   #1026
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Nano, maybe you could answer this.
the manual says its important to re-torque the head bolts properly. I haven't seen torque wrenches that will measure .9 or 1Nm. My torque wrenches are for real car stuff. Is this really necessary at all?
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:21 AM   #1027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quark
Nano, maybe you could answer this.
the manual says its important to re-torque the head bolts properly. I haven't seen torque wrenches that will measure .9 or 1Nm. My torque wrenches are for real car stuff. Is this really necessary at all?

As you know every precision built machinery has each of it's screws and bolts tightened with specific torques, that's why you have torque wrenches. Rc engines are not any different and using a torque wrench will always be better. If the head is not tightened evenly, the piston/liner alignement will not be optimal and you will get less performance and shorter lifetime from your engine.

If you are able to tighten the head screws with similar strenght for each of them, then you can work without the wrench. What is very important is that there is no need to tighten them a lot. Screw the screws and stop as soon as you feel resistance, eventually even unscrew half a turn and move to the next screw. Don't try to tighten them all the way in, you probably have to work on each screw 2-3 times before it's set, if you tighten one screw too far you will be out of alignement. Then for final tightening, I do it by only holding the screwdriver handle with the tip of my fingers and kind of roll the handle in my fingers (but I have pretty strong hands^^). If you grab the whole handle in your palm and tighten the screws that way, you probably are tightening the screws too hard.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:24 AM   #1028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrijver99
Those are the 2007 and the 2007 pro tuned.
But what is the difference between the CRF Wasp Rev 12 Cyrul spec and the CRF Wasp Rev 12 2007?
The Wasp Rev 12 Cyrul spec is the 2006 version with the updated carburator. The 2007 version main difference is a different liner giving more low end and a few mixture flow optimizations to the crankcase. The pro tuned version we plan on releasing at a later time.
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:27 AM   #1029
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Nano when do you now expect the 2007 CRFs, I know your expected date was in March ?
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:33 AM   #1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quark
Nano, maybe you could answer this.
the manual says its important to re-torque the head bolts properly. I haven't seen torque wrenches that will measure .9 or 1Nm. My torque wrenches are for real car stuff. Is this really necessary at all?
For those interested, here is an example of a torque screwdriver.

Wiha Torque Screwdriver
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:32 PM   #1031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
For those interested, here is an example of a torque screwdriver.

Wiha Torque Screwdriver
Thanks! I never knew these existed. This will be good for any engine, not just the CRF.

I would suggest posting a similar link on the CRF product page, so people have some idea what they should be using. Like Quark, all I have is a torque wrench for full-sized engines.
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Old 03-29-2007, 03:22 PM   #1032
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I would like to come back on something which I think is important since some drivers have been having "issues" with this.

The ball bearings in the engine are there to hold the crankshaft in place, not to make it airtight. The seals on the bearing do not make it airtight, they are there to keep dirt out. The airtightness is made by the oil film between the crankshaft and the crankcase. This oil film moves along the crankshaft and lubricates the ball bearings at all times. Without this the ball bearings would not last very long.

The bearings need good lubrication, therefore it is normal for oil to leak from the front bearing. The crankshaft/crankcase play was precisely measured to obtain a certain oil flow around the crankshaft and the bearing's "airtightness" and play was specially tailored/selected to fit our needs. Therefore if you fill up the engine with fuel or oil it is normal that this oil will leak from the front bearing, that will also happen if you run too rich, the richer the mixture, the more oil will come out from the front bearing.

So please do not think that your engine is leaking because some oil is coming out from the front bearing.

Never use sealants or any other form of glue on the engine, if the engine is leaking anywhere else than the front bearing that means there is a problem. Using sealant will only hide the problem, not fix it. The seals and o-rings on the engine will seal it perfectly, no need to add anything else.
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:31 PM   #1033
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Default I ,ve see that

Hey Nano ,i hve see that when i got my first CRF, didnt hve any problems ,whats the deal on these new versions of the CRF.Well i can tell you with full ceremics, the motor spins up so fast i had to reset the 2spd this is the Murnan version.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:50 PM   #1034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impalabob64
Hey Nano ,i hve see that when i got my first CRF, didnt hve any problems ,whats the deal on these new versions of the CRF.Well i can tell you with full ceremics, the motor spins up so fast i had to reset the 2spd this is the Murnan version.
Corrrect impalabob64 a buddy of mine bought a older wasp a year ago and has ran the hell out of it going on the 12th gallon with no problems, and decided to buy a new one well after break the engine was not near as fast as the first one and right at the half gallon mark the crank pin broke and the rod went threw the block the engine is only 2 weeks old!!! and some other guys have been having problems with the newer engines..
He sent the engine back to orion because they wanted to see it we will see what happens...
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Old 03-29-2007, 10:38 PM   #1035
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At least Orion didn't immediately assume he was at fault for breaking the crank. They have lost my business though. A Drop in the ocean I know but I'm sick of it.
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