R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-05-2007, 06:26 PM   #976
Tech Fanatic
 
jetbill007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tampa Area
Posts: 795
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

got a tuning question...
running Trinity 30% with OS P3-medium plug

stock gearing, low end is good close to burning tires off the line... then once the transition to 2nd gear switch it seems to be a slight loss of power- then pick back up again.

not much of a lack of fuel like you running lean, but more less consistant transition.

not sure where to start, changes gears about 15ft at full throttle.
1. maybe i need to tune the 1st gear to hold longer to keep the rpm up so it doesnt bog down?
2. hate to say it- mid range adjustment(last resort)?
3. high speed adjust?
4. clutch adjustment(stock clutch)? enaging around 18k according to audio tach.

Now that i think of it, when i had a burnt clutch as a kid, when i would get on it it would loose power at any high tourqe peaks... maybe its the clutch?

i also did notice the idle was stick high after a couple runs then would settle...

im lost.
jetbill007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2007, 10:53 PM   #977
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 303
Default I jumped on the bandwagon.

I've been reading this post through out and decided to jump on the bandwagon since I needed a new motor to race with. My 5 year old MT12 just doesn't cut it anymore. I couldn't resist the price from towers at $210, so I bought one, even though its the old carb and needle holder. I tried emailing Orion about getting a free HSN holder but its been a week and no reply. Gonna try run this motor with Mugen 20%, and stick with my curent RD Logics Turbo II. See how that tunes up. Then buy the Orion spring, red kyosho clutch shoe, and drill out the white weights to get it engaging aroud 20k or above. Just wanna try run with what I have, you know? Anyways, anyone got some input on the stuff I'll be running? like if something is going to be horribly wrong? Let me know. Its going into a Kyosho V-One RRR WCE. oh, gonna change gearing too.
Quark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2007, 11:29 PM   #978
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quark
I've been reading this post through out and decided to jump on the bandwagon since I needed a new motor to race with. My 5 year old MT12 just doesn't cut it anymore. I couldn't resist the price from towers at $210, so I bought one, even though its the old carb and needle holder. I tried emailing Orion about getting a free HSN holder but its been a week and no reply. Gonna try run this motor with Mugen 20%, and stick with my curent RD Logics Turbo II. See how that tunes up. Then buy the Orion spring, red kyosho clutch shoe, and drill out the white weights to get it engaging aroud 20k or above. Just wanna try run with what I have, you know? Anyways, anyone got some input on the stuff I'll be running? like if something is going to be horribly wrong? Let me know. Its going into a Kyosho V-One RRR WCE. oh, gonna change gearing too.
The best way to obtain parts from Team Orion, is to call them directly.

As far as tuning the CRF goes, see Dean F. (Justin's Dad). Justin's CRF is perfectly tuned for our track and he is running it in a RRR Evo WCE. Trust me on this one - Dean knows what he is doing. Justin is the fastest guy at our track these days.
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2007, 02:10 AM   #979
Tech Adept
 
Nano's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 205
Default

Jetbill007,

Have you tried these settings?

Clutch:
Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

Gearing:
16 / 22 Pinion
56 / 59 Spur

This should work ok, if you are using stock kit parts your clutch might be a little to weak for this motor. Therefore it goes into crisis when the engine is making it's peak power and/or is engaging too early. If the clutch and carb are setup right, when the 2nd gear engages, the engine will pull really hard, there should be no hesitations.

As far as I know the Kyosho red shoe does not work very good with this motor, you want to use the grey one.

If you have any problems contacting Team Orion USA, try calling or emailing Traci, 714 694-2812 or [email protected]

Nano
Nano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2007, 02:41 AM   #980
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 303
Default

Hey Nano, im going to try those clutch settings, I thought about the red clutch shoe because of less slippage, but im guessing on my super tight track, if my power snaps into place, my rear tires gonna kick out very wildly, just like Drifting real cars. I do it all the time when I go Drift. The hard spring your talking about, is that the red, Evolva spring?
Quark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2007, 06:20 AM   #981
Tech Fanatic
 
jetbill007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tampa Area
Posts: 795
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano
Jetbill007,

Have you tried these settings?

Clutch:
Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

Gearing:
16 / 22 Pinion
56 / 59 Spur

This should work ok, if you are using stock kit parts your clutch might be a little to weak for this motor. Therefore it goes into crisis when the engine is making it's peak power and/or is engaging too early. If the clutch and carb are setup right, when the 2nd gear engages, the engine will pull really hard, there should be no hesitations.

As far as I know the Kyosho red shoe does not work very good with this motor, you want to use the grey one.

If you have any problems contacting Team Orion USA, try calling or emailing Traci, 714 694-2812 or [email protected]

Nano
Nano, thanks for the feedback and support.. ill try that, i have a Orion clutch set coming for the RRR already, i think im using the factory spring.

CRF plugs are hard to come by locally, so i tried OS...
jetbill007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2007, 07:43 AM   #982
Tech Adept
 
Nano's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 205
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quark
Hey Nano, im going to try those clutch settings, I thought about the red clutch shoe because of less slippage, but im guessing on my super tight track, if my power snaps into place, my rear tires gonna kick out very wildly, just like Drifting real cars. I do it all the time when I go Drift. The hard spring your talking about, is that the red, Evolva spring?
Yes it's the Evolva spring.

The red shoe imho is a bad idea because it will either stick too early and make the engine bog or burn out because of slippage. Soft shoes are not a good idea with the CRF engine, it makes too much power for them to cope with.
Nano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2007, 07:49 AM   #983
Tech Regular
 
MRX4-R03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SA,TX
Posts: 318
Default

nano pm sent..
MRX4-R03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2007, 08:05 AM   #984
Tech Master
 
impalabob64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: florida
Posts: 1,464
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to impalabob64
Default Nano is right

I use in my s720 the yellow shoe which the hardest Hey guys i will be testing another demon that murnan has unleashed, a Murnan full ceremic CRF at the Homesteed race in Miami.I hve been running the CRf the hold Forgass race series, this last race jump me from 18t in the points race to 11th.
__________________
RoninRc.com
MurnanModifiedMotors
Basher BT-4
impalabob64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2007, 04:38 PM   #985
Tech Master
 
John Doucakis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 1,108
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Just baught a CRF .12 engine. Will do some testing + race this weekend. For more check out in my sig
John Doucakis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2007, 05:51 PM   #986
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 3,538
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to munrath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by impalabob64
I use in my s720 the yellow shoe which the hardest Hey guys i will be testing another demon that murnan has unleashed, a Murnan full ceremic CRF at the Homesteed race in Miami.I hve been running the CRf the hold Forgass race series, this last race jump me from 18t in the points race to 11th.
\


Bobby - You have PM call me.

Mark
__________________
Tekno RC (RTM) / RadioPost / Tekin / Pro-Match Racing / AKA / PT Racing Oils/Diff Lube

Races for 2015:
PNB, AMS, E-Nats Warm-up, E-Nats, LCRC North East Challenge, RAC, LCRC Halloween, Badlands, ROAR Region 2 Series, and Local Club Racing
munrath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2007, 06:07 AM   #987
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 303
Default

wow, I ran the motor today, and it was very interesting. My needles were set HSN 6.5 and LSN at 4.5 out of the box. and half out on the mid needle, perpendicular to the HSN. I changed to the updated HSN holder and reset the needle to 6.5. Tried to break it in but it was way too rich, the motor was basically 4-stroking at full throttle. So I reset all the needles to what the manual said, 5.5 HSN, and 4 on the LSN. Started it up and it was finally drivable. Ran it through 1-2 seconds burst of full throtle and then some slow runs for a few seconds, then full throttle again. and repeat. 1 notch leaner on the HSN each tank. very interesting sound when it was rich at full throttle. The motor was cutting out. like WAAAAAAAAAAAH...........WAHHHHHHHHHH. Split second cuts at full speed. After the 4th tank, I started to lean the HSN untill I was getting decent power, mean while, the idle was getting very erratic. SOUNDED like it was loading up, the revs drops untill it cuts. tried to lean it out, but didn't help, richend it half a turn and the idle stabalized. very weird in terms of sound but makes sence cause the HSN was getting leaner. Overall, very good power, lots of wheel spin on first gear at 16/61. I couldn't even get the temps up high while leaning it out, stayed around 220, but it was night time so makes a difference. I made my second gear change late so I could determine the engine rev's and power easier. These were my final settings:

20% Mugen Nitro
Stock Head Shims, either .1 or .3mm of shim. never checked yet, Manual says its stock out with .3 but the online manual says .1mm.
~4.5 HSN
~4.5 LSN
White kyosho clutch weight, drilled to 3.5mm holes
Gray Clutch shoe
Red evolva clutch spring
~2mm tightened on the spring nut.
~.5mm clutch spacing
16/22 pinion
59/56 spur
stock plug,
RD Logic Turbo II (ran good, didn't have anything to compare though)
Outside temperatue ~75 degree's F. It was night time.
I couldn't determing the engagement RPM but it was pretty darn high, I think I could go higher maybe. Hope this helps some.

Last edited by Quark; 03-11-2007 at 04:26 PM.
Quark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2007, 03:18 PM   #988
Tech Master
 
impalabob64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: florida
Posts: 1,464
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to impalabob64
Default crF

QUARK,IF YOU RUNNING 30% NITRO CHANGE TO # 7 PLUG ,ALSO THE PIPE COMB ,I SUGGEST THE NOVAROSSI 2630,WITH MED HEADER,OR SKYLINE WITH NOVA MED.HEADER I,VE TRIED THE RD PIPE MOTOR DIDNT PERFORM.THAT WHAAA SOUNDS LIKE ITS LEAN ON THE BOTTOM.I AN THE ONLY RACER IN FLORIDA THAT RUNS THIS ENGINE.
__________________
RoninRc.com
MurnanModifiedMotors
Basher BT-4
impalabob64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2007, 04:33 PM   #989
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 303
Default

I'd like to try a new pipe but I heard the skyline pipe are weak. Because our track is soooo tight and small, if people arn't driving well, they jump the track and you get hit. I'd rather have a pipe that lasts a while rather then one that I have to replace every few months. My old mega nova looked like a pretzel after 6 months.
Quark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2007, 01:26 AM   #990
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: london, uk
Posts: 225
Default too much acceleration !!

Hi,

Really impressed wit the engine, but finding the initial acceleration is too fast ! i also drive1/8th on road !!! Wot i meant is that i only slighty touch the throttle and the car lauches like a rocket !! 1at gear is 16/60 serpent 710, with orion white flyweight not drilled or weighted, spring from orion. If tighten clutch it will slip or loosen it be no thread to grip on !!! Oh with the pipe and manifold that came with the josh cryul combo.
xtreme888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Orion Wasp REV Nicolas Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 183 10-05-2006 09:04 AM
team orion wasp rev MAVICXXX Malaysian R/C Racers 31 09-19-2006 09:18 PM
Team Orion - Wasp!! BundyMan Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 1 03-03-2006 03:10 AM
Orion Element 19t Dyno results rinkrat99 Electric On-Road 7 10-09-2005 07:29 PM
Team Orion Wasp .12 HaLo_UsMc R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 03-16-2005 07:31 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:38 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net