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Old 02-27-2007, 02:10 PM   #946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
...
For gearing run an 18/52 first gear with a 23/46 2nd and switch to an 18T brake pulley to get your ratios down from 7.28/5.04 to 7.68/5.35
...
Hello, digging this forum hehe ...

I have, on the G4S, this pulleys:

Front side : 26T
Rear side : 19T
Break : 19T

And the front and rear as the kits default, donīt know exactly what they are (?)(32 front?)

Changing the break to 18T I should change the rear side to 18 too ? And the front side, should go back to 27 ?

I am not savvy on the rations. Are there any good reading on the Net someone could point me to ?

Thankx for the info!
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Old 02-28-2007, 12:41 AM   #947
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Rawz thats correct but no need to change front side pulley back to 27t.
The 18t brake and side will reduce the transmission ratio.
Id also go smallest 1st gear pinion with the largest 1st gear spur (17/52)
to start of from.Thats what my buddy is using and with the 1.8mm black clutch spring the engine is singing and ballistic.
With telemetry he is peaking around 45000 rpm and a 2nd gear change at 35000rpm.Clutch engagement is at 17000/18000rpm
It has slip initially but stops afetr 2/3 laps this is with the std black shoe.
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Old 02-28-2007, 06:07 AM   #948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Rawz thats correct but no need to change front side pulley back to 27t.
The 18t brake and side will reduce the transmission ratio.
Id also go smallest 1st gear pinion with the largest 1st gear spur (17/52)
to start of from.Thats what my buddy is using and with the 1.8mm black clutch spring the engine is singing and ballistic.
With telemetry he is peaking around 45000 rpm and a 2nd gear change at 35000rpm.Clutch engagement is at 17000/18000rpm
It has slip initially but stops afetr 2/3 laps this is with the std black shoe.
Razzor,

You might wan't to check post 205 on this thread, which explains very well at what rpm's the clutch should engage...seems yours is engaging to low

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...4&page=7&pp=30

AFM
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:21 AM   #949
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As usuall AFM ,thanks.
car is running sweet with the setup at teh moment if we need to change the clutch higher then we will give it a try ,sure my buddy will be stoked if it gets better.Now it looks like I need to get one for sure.
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:59 AM   #950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtveten
Seems the insulators were cracked and didn't exhibit any problems until the engine reached operating temp., Tried to over tighten the carb seat to seal better but that only lasted for 6 laps. Orion is aware of the cracked carb insulators and the leaky O ring seals. Quite a number are getting out of the factory with this problem. Once this happens, it's virtually impossible to pull the carb off.
Ops!!
The engine I got may have this problem then!
I did unassebly the engine, to flush with WD-40 its internals, before braking-in. But I could not pull the carb out, did remove the retainers completely, but no good, gave up on removing the carburetor.

So, the insulator must heve this problem ? What should I do, any tips ?
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:40 AM   #951
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Some carbs fit very tight yes. Make sure whatever you do that the carb is inserted all the way in so that it's sitting on the o-ring at the bottom. We have never had air leaks at the carburator. There only has been a rear case cover o-ring issue on the first batch of engines that could cause air leaks after an hour or so of running, this issue has been fixed a long time ago.

There aren't any cracked carb insulators. They can be damaged if you overtighten the carb retainer. When you tighten this screw, once you feel resistance you only want to go another 1/4-1/2 turn and that's it. You should not try to tighten it all the way. If it's overtightened you can make marks in the insulator and this will cause the carb retainer to stick inside the marks, making it very hard to remove the carburator.

As for unassembling the engine, especially from new, this is not necessary, there is no need for cleaning, you won't find anything inside the engine. Even more so that the head button and cooling head installation has to be done very precisely to make sure everything is aligned properly (that's why we recommend the use of a torque wrench)

Remember that everytime that you take appart the engine it will require a break-in for 1-2 fuel tanks before it performs at it's full potential again. The deposits that appear on the piston and liner actually increase the airtightness, compression and performance of the engine. Continuously taking appart and cleaning the engine can do more bad than good.
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:30 AM   #952
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I thought you were not suppose to clean the inside of the piston liner and the contact surface of the piston. Cleaning the top of the piston is okay, isn't it??

When I removed my piston liner (not new), it required a tremendous amount of force. Much more than I expected. Half-way out, when it was really jammed in there, I looked at the liner and said, "You're coming out, weather you like it or not!"

Is that tightness a result of the automatic cylinder conicity adjustment or is it just made that way?
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:46 AM   #953
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Hi, Nano I have been looking at your Team Orion 2007 Catalogue and I have noticed 3 different .12 Wasp engines to be launched in March, is that still the scheduled time frame and can do you know when in March. Also any word on the CFD ?

One other question for the future NT1 dudes, would there be a CRF clutch for that chassis?
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:55 AM   #954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I thought you were not suppose to clean the inside of the piston liner and the contact surface of the piston. Cleaning the top of the piston is okay, isn't it??

When I removed my piston liner (not new), it required a tremendous amount of force. Much more than I expected. Half-way out, when it was really jammed in there, I looked at the liner and said, "You're coming out, weather you like it or not!"

Is that tightness a result of the automatic cylinder conicity adjustment or is it just made that way?
Rmd,

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless you really need to because the engine does not work properly, don't bother opening it. The deposits on the piston and liner are normal and do not decrease performance, it's even the contrary.

Nano
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:59 AM   #955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jelayne
Hi, Nano I have been looking at your Team Orion 2007 Catalogue and I have noticed 3 different .12 Wasp engines to be launched in March, is that still the scheduled time frame and can do you know when in March. Also any word on the CFD ?

One other question for the future NT1 dudes, would there be a CRF clutch for that chassis?
Right now we are first planning the release of the 2007 version which features a few updates to the engine to improve performance and adjustabilty. It has more bottom and top end power.

Nano
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:24 AM   #956
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Default RRR setup ???

What gearing/clutch setup would you guys recomend for a track that is 50 x 140 very technical with a long back strack?
V-One RRR

My current setup is 15/61 and 21/56
clutch gap is around .5 and 1 on the nut of the centax with stock kyosho clutch, no weights..

Also I have downloaded an AudioTach to get correct and accurate clutch engagment, what RPM do you guys recomend with the Orion .12 (running #6 plug and 30%-stock shims)

Thanks
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:26 AM   #957
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Clutch:
Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

Gearing:
16 / 22 Pinion
56 / 59 Spur

These are just to get you started. The gearing we don't change that much.

Nano
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:07 AM   #958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetbill007
Also I have downloaded an AudioTach to get correct and accurate clutch engagment
Any info where you downloaded it?

Thx
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:07 PM   #959
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Thankx for the info.

I will be using the Skyline V12 Plus, on the TM G4S, not using ED. Will put the black spring and the red clutch, let's see ...
(I lost the flywheel nut, don't ask how, I don't know! I am pissed ... will take some time for my order to get to me, I had to get it from Raceday, and the brasilian customs always take longer than they should to clear the packages ... oh well, will have the engine sitting on my desk, looking at me for now ... heheh)

One thing. Before losing the nut, I did assemly the clucth, but even using all the shims that come with the TM kit plus a set of serpent shims, I still had more than 5mm end paly ... !
That using the TM collet(comes with the kit)
Looks like the Orion collet(that came with the engine) I have more clearance behinde the flywheel.
BUT, the G4S manual specify the use of their collet.
Is there a problem really, or I can use the Orion collet ? (I dont see why not, unless there should not be more than what the TM collet puts as clearance between the front bearing and the flywheel)
On that, if even the Orion collet don't do the trick, can I use a shim on right after the front bearing, before the collet ?
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:10 PM   #960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrijver99
Any info where you downloaded it?

Thx
Yes, could someone tell wher we can get the AudioTach software ?
Is it shareware ?

Sounds like THE tool to have !

With a notebook(with built-in microphone) set on the track side !! nice ...
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