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Old 11-26-2006, 01:16 AM   #796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markallen
Are the stock head shims ok for 30%?Or can I remove one?

Thanks,
Mark
Stock shims are good up to 40% leave as is for 30%

Cheers
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:48 AM   #797
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I have been using the CRF for 3 month now and twice including yesterday it had a problem that it would go from rich to lean while it was in use the idle would become erratic and it would stutter or take a long time to reach high RPM Then all of a sudden it would stall at high rpm. Also when I purchase it I noticed that the carb had a spring return that was very heard and now is soft. I waiting for the mods any news on that?
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Old 11-27-2006, 07:58 AM   #798
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Default head shim

should I remove 0.1mm head shim if I run 25% nitro ?
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Old 11-27-2006, 09:33 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigman18
I have been using the CRF for 3 month now and twice including yesterday it had a problem that it would go from rich to lean while it was in use the idle would become erratic and it would stutter or take a long time to reach high RPM Then all of a sudden it would stall at high rpm. Also when I purchase it I noticed that the carb had a spring return that was very heard and now is soft. I waiting for the mods any news on that?
I would check for air leaks, then check the rear case cover gasket to check that it's not leaking once the engine is warm (ie it runs ok for the first few minutes then develops the problem). The new needle holder (which you can get for free) helps carb setup.

For the spring, it is just inserted in a groove so it could have come out.
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Old 11-27-2006, 09:37 AM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barclayrc
Who has tried the new generation CRF 12 ?
The new CRF .12 is the same engine, the only updated parts are, different HSN holder (for easier setup), bigger carb bore (more low end) and conical carb insert (overall improvement with bigger bore carb).

Engine internals are the same.
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:46 PM   #801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano
I would check for air leaks, then check the rear case cover gasket to check that it's not leaking once the engine is warm (ie it runs ok for the first few minutes then develops the problem). The new needle holder (which you can get for free) helps carb setup.

For the spring, it is just inserted in a groove so it could have come out.
I already fixed the spring
I found that one of the screws in the head was loose and so was one of the srcews in the rear case cover but it felt tight I Email Team Orion and ask them about the upgrade but I have not received any reply
And thanks for your help

Last edited by bigman18; 11-27-2006 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 12-04-2006, 01:02 PM   #802
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Just spent a few hours reading through this thread and can't make my mind up on this engine, one minute it sounds like an excellent engine and then you think I shouldn't touch it with a barge pole.

My main concern is that if you have to set the clutch to kick in at a high RPM to get the decent bottom end punch, surely this engine would only be suitable on a high traction track?

Can anyone offer any feedback on the revised carb mods, as to whether there is a definite improvement to the low end. Also can anyone advise on the durability of this engine in comparison to say a Novarossi and my other possible choice the OS .12 TZ Speed (which I have no experience with).

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Mark
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:32 AM   #803
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Diesel Racer,

The results people are getting with this engine vary from one person to another mainly because it brings new technology and a few particulars need to be adapted to ensure proper running of the engine.

On-road engines need precise settings and understanding of how all the parts function together. Some users are more knowledgeable than others and adapt more easily to new things, others take more time to do so.

On our side we are doing the best we can to help out people who choose to use our engine by supplying an exhaust system designed specifically for the engine (altough other exisiting exhausts are known to work well) and special parts for the clutch that help it function properly with this engine and cope with the 25% extra power it will have to transfer compared to a regular engine. Using different clutch settings does not mean the engine needs a high grip track, it means that in order for the engine to work properly your clutch has to be setup differently so that it engages when the engine is in the rigth rev range.

As for the durability, one of the main strenghts of this engine is that the piston does not bind with the liner, it slides freely on the film of oil that is created on the liner's surface when the engine is running. No binding means less wear, it's pretty obvious that this feature alone improves the durability by a huge margin.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask.

Nano
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:51 AM   #804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano
As for the durability, one of the main strenghts of this engine is that the piston does not bind with the liner, it slides freely on the film of oil that is created on the liner's surface when the engine is running. No binding means less wear, it's pretty obvious that this feature alone improves the durability by a huge margin.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask.

Nano
Nano, did you guys tested different types of oil, or a higher oil percentage, to make the compression higher, due to the amount of oil between piston and liner, more "bottom" compression means more bottom power......

Or is the disadvantage of more oil content bigger than the advantage of it in this case?....

do you understand what I mean?
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:35 AM   #805
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We have tested with different oil percentages. This engine can use fuel with less oil because there is less friction and the tolerances are very tight.
Tight tolerances mean that you don't need oil to fil the gaps (defects) in order to make compression.
The energy is contained in the fuel, not the in the oil which is there for lubrication. If you use fuel with less oil you have more energy in your fuel tank, which means more power or more runtime.

As for bottom end, this engine has plenty, it only requires a proper clutch setup and an exhaust system which is adapted.

Just for a refresh the 2007 version of the engine is available worldwide and our updated offer is still valid. http://teamorion.com/news/ca40/newsid/141

Nano
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Old 12-16-2006, 07:07 PM   #806
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Default Carb nedle settings

I received my upgrade and I want to confirm the factory niedle settings
Thanks
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Old 12-17-2006, 05:10 AM   #807
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Just looking quickly through this thread and from what I can see the feedback is generally based on using 25% nitro and not running to EFRA legal standards.

Is there any feedback on running this engine on 16% nitro with EFRA legal standards (and possibly in colder climates)

Thks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2006, 06:39 PM   #808
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i tested the new carb set up today and man it has much more punch out of the hole but the only problem i had wasn that it didnt get good gas millage(4mins) at 301 raceway when with the stock carb i could get about six mins but all and all the new carb gives you alot more bottom without having to tighten up your clutch so much
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Old 12-19-2006, 03:10 AM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigman18
I received my upgrade and I want to confirm the factory niedle settings
Thanks
Factory setting for the upgraded carb (needle holder) is 4 turns out from fully closed.

Nano
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Old 12-19-2006, 03:21 AM   #810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clubman
Just looking quickly through this thread and from what I can see the feedback is generally based on using 25% nitro and not running to EFRA legal standards.

Is there any feedback on running this engine on 16% nitro with EFRA legal standards (and possibly in colder climates)

Thks in advance.
The engine was developed in Switzerland using mainly 16% nitro fuel (EFRA spec), in a neutral environment (nor specially warm or cold).

We tested 25%+ nitro fuel and engine ran perfect. By increasing the nitro content of the fuel, you mainly increase the power output. It does not generally mean that you need to modify the motor (at least ours). Someone posted in this thread and he ran 40% nitro on a stock engine without any problems.
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