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Old 09-10-2006, 04:28 PM   #721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What are your needles set at? What % fuel and plug? Sounds like your LSN is set to rich and HSN too lean. Are you adjusting both needles at the same time or one at a time? What type of track are you running on?
Would help if I gave more info , I went back to the recommended starting point here on the forum 4 1/2 hi I believe and 6 low. I actually richened a little from there on both ends. Too much bog, good top speed but had the bog This is richer than I used to run too. I ended at 5 1/4 hi and 1 notch over 5 on the low. I was thinking like you, too rich low end but would overheat. So I richened the top to try and compesnate. This after numerous different settings. I run Byrons 30% race. #7 cold plug. Mid size track. Temp was around 80, not humid. Stock shimming. Oh yeah, I do 1 needle at a time.
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Old 09-10-2006, 05:34 PM   #722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO
Would help if I gave more info , I went back to the recommended starting point here on the forum 4 1/2 hi I believe and 6 low. I actually richened a little from there on both ends. Too much bog, good top speed but had the bog This is richer than I used to run too. I ended at 5 1/4 hi and 1 notch over 5 on the low. I was thinking like you, too rich low end but would overheat. So I richened the top to try and compesnate. This after numerous different settings. I run Byrons 30% race. #7 cold plug. Mid size track. Temp was around 80, not humid. Stock shimming. Oh yeah, I do 1 needle at a time.
Tks
It's really the opposite way around. Start with 6.5 high, 4 low. See if you can slowly move down to 6 turns on the HSN, 1 hour at a time. If it leans too much, turn it back an hour or two. If you get to 6, you might be able to go less than 6, it really depends.

If you still have a low end bog after adjusting the HSN - i.e. "heavy delay", start learning out your low speed needle, maybe 1 hour at a time. In each case, run only 2-3 laps before checking the temp. You don't want to overheat. If you get rid of the bog and the engine starts to lean too much, you have two choices; (1) richen the LSN 1-2 hours - as long as it doesn't start bogging again; or (2) richen the HSN 1 hour. The engine does not like to run rich on the LSN!

Keep in mind, that it takes about 3 minutes for the engine to fully warm up. Smaller adjustments may do the trick, I'm just using 1 hour as a general adjustment amount. You might also consider running the CRF 6 plug.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-10-2006, 08:07 PM   #723
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CHUCKMANDO

Try using a hotter plug, like CRF#6 or CRF#5...it will help.
I have similiar problem, but when I change from #6 to #5, the problems is solved..
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Old 09-10-2006, 09:37 PM   #724
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Chuck, also experiment with pipes. I found that with the Mugen 2501 the engine was hotter than with the JP 2620. The 2620 also made better power. It could be that you're leaning the engine too much to mask an ineficiency with the pipe, to get the power/speed you expect.

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Old 09-11-2006, 12:18 AM   #725
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Chuck,
What is the idle speed of the motor? An excessively high idle adjustment that prevents the motor from returning to an acceptable idle speed will cause the motor to run hot, as the heat cannot be dissipated.
Hope this helps
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:47 AM   #726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO
I went out yesterday to try and get the engine dialed back in. I tried for a couple of hrs to no avail. I richened it up and tried to get the speed back, but every time I get it to where it was speed wise, it would overheat at the end of the tank. I richened it back up and lost the speed again. Another thing is that when I richen it up, or when the car is running fast, then I let it sit for a few seconds, the engine hardly does anything ( heavy delay) then it takes off. None of this happened, till last week race. I missed todays race, cause I didn't want to fight it all day. Any suggestions? I will be calling team orion tomorrow, maybe ship it back to them or maybe Mr Cyrul can take a look at it if he has the time.
Thanks
Make sure your temp gun is reading right. The engine will run at 260 degF no problem but has problems below this.

If the engine is running OK bring it into the pits and listen for the idle to return to normal. If it does then lean it out 1/8th and do 3 more laps. Bring it in and listen again. Keep doing this untill you get a high idle speed and this means its too hot. Lean it out 1/8th and let her rip!

The engine runs hot but thats when its at its fastest

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Old 09-11-2006, 11:57 AM   #727
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http://www.rcforum.ch/forum_posts.asp?TID=4849&PN=1

They say that the Team Orion Wasp Rev is IFMAR LEGAL and that the Sirio protest against Josh engine could not be accepted.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:11 PM   #728
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http://www.rcforum.ch/forum_posts.asp?TID=4849&PN=1

They say that the Team Orion Wasp Rev is IFMAR LEGAL and that the Sirio protest against Josh engine could not be accepted.
Funny thing is that the Sirio motor is used by most of, if not all the factory drivers for Kyosho... When Cyrul switched to the CRF... I knew something like this might happen... Just not the in fighting within the company... I see a change for Josh in the future... Kyosho better figure that one out or Serpent might bite then in the @$$ again... .02

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Old 09-13-2006, 08:06 PM   #729
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Thanks for the replies guys. I've been real busy at home and work. Well I did get the sleeve out but damn, was it a struggle. All the internals looked fine. What workmanship on them too. Only thing is that I scratched the top back of the sleeve near and around the lip. The inside is perfect. Also slightly scratched the case on top. Getting it back in was another chore. I spoke to Team Orion about the overheating and they believe it may be coming from a worn rear plate o-ring. Hopefully I can get it for this sat and test it out. I have only used the skyline pipe, which got destroyed, and more recently the rd logics turbo II. I had great results with the rd logics and ran several days without any of the tuning issues I had spoken about, so I really do not believe that is the problem. When using the skyline pipe, I was just learning about tuning this beast. lOver heating I was talking about is more in the 300 range. I know the deal with the hotter temps. The normal temp for me was in the 280s with no signs of overheating at all. at 220-240 engine not even close to its potential. I do not tune to temp, but checked for a reference.
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:08 PM   #730
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Charlie: So what were your final settings? Did you continue using the 7 plug?

Thanks! Just comparing notes.
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:16 PM   #731
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I had a head fin fall off my engine, but I hope I never see this!!



I found this pic on the RB website.
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Old 09-14-2006, 01:46 AM   #732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
I had a head fin fall off my engine, but I hope I never see this!!



I found this pic on the RB website.



http://www.m7h.nl/m7h/Techtalk_files/Carter_in_2.gif
http://www.m7h.nl/m7h/Techtalk_files/Crash.jpg
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Old 09-14-2006, 03:51 AM   #733
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to see both of those engines like they are, well ......
at least the bearings would be easier to change ! lol
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Old 09-14-2006, 04:03 AM   #734
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I'm not sure why M7H posted those pics here. It's not the same thing to have a 1/8th scale engine which is exposed to have a broken crank case. The pic I posted is actually relevant to this thread as it is an Orion engine and it is protected inside a touring car body shell.

It would be great if the Orion guys at the worlds could shed some light on the circumstances surrounding this breakage. Was it a freak accident where the body got ripped off and the engine made contact with something or is it a shock fracture without the engine hitting something?
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Old 09-14-2006, 04:58 AM   #735
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Your right Zoom, just want to share some pictures.....

But also from the R&B site:
-An unlucky competitor broke the whole engine after a crash at the end of the straightaway.-
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