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Old 04-30-2006, 04:20 AM   #1
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Yikes! Was this a mistake?

I was at the store today looking for something to clean the internal parts of my OS .12 TZ and came upon Eagle One's Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish. I had to do almost no work at all and the piston sleeve and crankshaft cleaned itself up and got polished rather nicely. Since it's wadding, even the inside of the journal was easy to clean. It doesn't leave a residue on the metal, which is what really appealed to me. Before and after photos are attached.

Question is, was this a mistake? Should I even be using this stuff? Anybody else use this stuff with disasterous or successful results? It may be too late for me, but at least others can get the heads-up.

Product link: http://www.eagleone.com/pages/produc...=1006&cat=5006
Attached Thumbnails
Yikes! Was this a mistake?-pistonsleeve.jpg   Yikes! Was this a mistake?-crankshaft01a.jpg   Yikes! Was this a mistake?-crankshaft01b.jpg   Yikes! Was this a mistake?-crankshaft02.jpg  
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 04-30-2006 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 04-30-2006, 05:20 AM   #2
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I wouldn't have used it on the piston and the inside of the sleeve.

Starting from break-in, the oil from the fuel(especially castor oil) builds up a very thin semi-permanent protective film on all the engine internals. This film protects (to a certain degree) parts from corrosion and friction. The problem with removing this film from the piston/sleeve(besides benefits previously mentioned) is that it can and might slightly increase the tolerances between the piston and sleeve which is the last thing you would want to do on these types of engines.

No need polish the inside if the engine. nobody sees it 'cept you.

At the end of the day just run your engine till it's out of fuel and use after-run oil. should be all you need.

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Last edited by FREAKAH; 04-30-2006 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 04-30-2006, 05:22 AM   #3
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WOW!

I want to know to. If it doesn't hurt it in some way I'm buying some.
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FREAKAH
I wouldn't have used it on the piston and the inside of the sleeve.
I did not polish the inside of the piston sleeve and did not touch the piston at all. Well... I did wipe the piston so that it wouldn't be so oily to handle - same with the inside of the piston sleeve - but not too much.

The problem was the build-up on the crankshaft. A lot of people said it was abnormal - either discoloration or rust. It didn't wipe off, so I just figured I would take it off.

Josh Cyrul's engine maintenance tips (http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/maintenance/) says it's okay to use scotch-brite and aluminum polish. "If for any reason you have rust or build up on the crank it is a good idea to clean it up with the Scotch-brite and polish it as it will help your engines performance" . I figure he knows what he is talking about.

But you are quite right about a number of things. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel something is different. I lubricated everything before I reassembled the engine and also put about 6 drops down the glow plug hole after I was done. I've been hand turning the engine quite a bit since then and it's kinda "notchy" at TDC. The engine has always been tight at TDC, this might be okay. ... maybe.

I'll find out how bad an idea this was tomorrow morning when I fire up the engine. If it blows up on me, I'll be stopping by Hobbietat at lunch time on Monday.
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:42 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I did not polish the inside of the piston sleeve and did not touch the piston at all. Well... I did wipe the piston so that it wouldn't be so oily to handle - same with the inside of the piston sleeve - but not too much.

The problem was the build-up on the crankshaft. A lot of people said it was abnormal - either discoloration or rust. It didn't wipe off, so I just figured I would take it off.

Josh Cyrul's engine maintenance tips (http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/maintenance/) says it's okay to use scotch-brite and aluminum polish. "If for any reason you have rust or build up on the crank it is a good idea to clean it up with the Scotch-brite and polish it as it will help your engines performance" . I figure he knows what he is talking about.

But you are quite right about a number of things. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel something is different. I lubricated everything before I reassembled the engine and also put about 6 drops down the glow plug hole after I was done. I've been hand turning the engine quite a bit since then and it's kinda "notchy" at TDC. The engine has always been tight at TDC, this might be okay. ... maybe.

I'll find out how bad an idea this was tomorrow morning when I fire up the engine. If it blows up on me, I'll be stopping by Hobbietat at lunch time on Monday.
i did the same thing to the crank in my mugen x12 by using a small polishing wheel in the dremmel with autosol metal polish it came up a million bucks, but hopefully it'll work fine with new piston/linner and bearings
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I did not polish the inside of the piston sleeve and did not touch the piston at all. Well... I did wipe the piston so that it wouldn't be so oily to handle - same with the inside of the piston sleeve - but not too much.

The problem was the build-up on the crankshaft. A lot of people said it was abnormal - either discoloration or rust. It didn't wipe off, so I just figured I would take it off.

Josh Cyrul's engine maintenance tips (http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/maintenance/) says it's okay to use scotch-brite and aluminum polish. "If for any reason you have rust or build up on the crank it is a good idea to clean it up with the Scotch-brite and polish it as it will help your engines performance" . I figure he knows what he is talking about.

But you are quite right about a number of things. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel something is different. I lubricated everything before I reassembled the engine and also put about 6 drops down the glow plug hole after I was done. I've been hand turning the engine quite a bit since then and it's kinda "notchy" at TDC. The engine has always been tight at TDC, this might be okay. ... maybe.

I'll find out how bad an idea this was tomorrow morning when I fire up the engine. If it blows up on me, I'll be stopping by Hobbietat at lunch time on Monday.
You should be fine. That product in non-abrasive so I can't see what it could hurt.
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
You should be fine. That product in non-abrasive so I can't see what it could hurt.
Thanks! I'll let you know in a couple of hours.
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:52 AM   #8
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looks pretty damn good after...
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Old 04-30-2006, 02:37 PM   #9
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Update: I ran one and one-fourth tank of fuel through the engine with no problems.

Taking into consideration what FREAKAH said (Thanks BTW! ), I made sure that the car ran rich for a little while on the starter box. I'm in the process of changing my plug from a P3 to a P7, so I'm sure this helped a bit as well. Once I put the car on the ground, I took it nice a slow for the first 1/4 tank. Then I topped off again and slowly increased throttle, including quite a number of bursts at full throttle. Temperate range was good, but I think it's running a little lean on the top end. Low-end performance and clutch engagement was much better than it had been.

I'll have to wait to get on the track next weekend to fully tune the car and see if it lasts the whole day. It probably will.

Whew! Survived this one - at least for now.

I hope more people add their thoughts to this thread. I like the wadding polish much better than the idea of using a Scotch-brite pad and aluminum polish. If this turns out to be a good thing, we should let other people know about it.
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 04-30-2006 at 03:48 PM.
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