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Breaking in motor with no clutch bell installed?

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Breaking in motor with no clutch bell installed?

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Old 04-02-2019, 04:37 PM
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Default Breaking in motor with no clutch bell installed?

Had blown some clutch bell bearings waiting on new ones.

Just got a new motor to break in, Iíve never ran a motor without a clutch bell on.

Is it okay to crank the motor up, without the clutch bell and let it idle for a tank?

Thanks,

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Old 04-02-2019, 05:09 PM
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No. You shouldn’t idle a new engine for more than a few seconds. Idling a whole tank is bad karma. Just wait until you can set the engine up properly and run it in properly.
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2 View Post
No. You shouldn’t idle a new engine for more than a few seconds. Idling a whole tank is bad karma. Just wait until you can set the engine up properly and run it in properly.

Gotcha. Is the break in process different from off road?

Id normally let idle for 1 tank then start running it in on my 8th scale off road buggies.
Keeping temps around 200 degrees.

Thanks,
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:42 PM
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Iím confused... if you donít idle fuel through engine how do you run it in? Only alternative is WOT doing a four stroke cycles using the Josh Cyrul methods. Assuming we arenít talking about EBIS that is...
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Iím confused... if you donít idle fuel through engine how do you run it in? Only alternative is WOT doing a four stroke cycles using the Josh Cyrul methods. Assuming we arenít talking about EBIS that is...

Might have used wrong terminology.

Ive always let the first tank run at idle keeping engine temps around 200 degree.

After that Iíd run about 5 tanks at different RPM ranges, then start tuning.

My original question was. Is it okay to run a tank at idle without the clutch bell on using a centax clutch?

Im not trying to discuss break in methods.

Thanks!
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jkurz211 View Post



Might have used wrong terminology.

Ive always let the first tank run at idle keeping engine temps around 200 degree.

After that Iíd run about 5 tanks at different RPM ranges, then start tuning.

My original question was. Is it okay to run a tank at idle without the clutch bell on using a centax clutch?

Im not trying to discuss break in methods.

Thanks!
Sorry was in reply to SlowLST2... Think i would play it safe and have clutch together.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Iím confused... if you donít idle fuel through engine how do you run it in? Only alternative is WOT doing a four stroke cycles using the Josh Cyrul methods. Assuming we arenít talking about EBIS that is...
You donít ever want to idle an ABC engine - especially when new. You preheat it, start it, and drive it slightly rich with an oily fuel. Thatís the way the metallurgy needs to be treated. This heat cycling and 4-stroke Bovine Scatology -is just that. BS. There is so much utter hokum in the RC car community that nobody knows how the metallurgy even works! Understand how the metallurgy works and then treat the engines accordingly. Read here: AdriansModelAeroEngines.com :: ABC Model Engine Break-in
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:05 PM
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There is a lot written about yes or no idle with the first tanks. I always did and it is adviseable. The slow movement of the piston will do less harm to the fragile surface of the piston. Yes the engine may be cooler althoug it is not that much but be aware the piston will also stay cooler and so smaller.
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Old 04-03-2019, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
There is a lot written about yes or no idle with the first tanks. I always did and it is adviseable. The slow movement of the piston will do less harm to the fragile surface of the piston. Yes the engine may be cooler althoug it is not that much but be aware the piston will also stay cooler and so smaller.
And that puts more stress on everything else. Yeah, itís been done for a long time by a lot of people. Makes me wonder where the ďreplace the conrod after the first gallonĒ BS came from. Doesnít make the whole practice right. At all!

The fact is not every part of the engine will be at full operating temperature if itís not run the way it will be run in service.

But hey... donít take my word for it.
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Old 04-03-2019, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2 View Post
You donít ever want to idle an ABC engine - especially when new. You preheat it, start it, and drive it slightly rich with an oily fuel. Thatís the way the metallurgy needs to be treated. This heat cycling and 4-stroke Bovine Scatology -is just that. BS. There is so much utter hokum in the RC car community that nobody knows how the metallurgy even works! Understand how the metallurgy works and then treat the engines accordingly. Read here: AdriansModelAeroEngines.com :: ABC Model Engine Break-in
Preheat yes... Run-in is about heat cycle and bedding in. Running it too cool during run-in does nothing but prematurely wear out your engine.
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Old 04-04-2019, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Preheat yes... Run-in is about heat cycle and bedding in. Running it too cool during run-in does nothing but prematurely wear out your engine.
Breaking in an ABC engine is about mating parts - mainly the conrod bushings. The piston and liner seats itself over time - not a concern for breaking in other than heating the engine up prior to starting to relax the pinch. The point is to run the engine slightly rich and at its targeted operating temperature. That is going to bed the parts properly. People need to understand - heat cycling does VERY LITTLE if ANYTHING for ABC Engines. The piston doesnít get hot enough to get work hardened and the chromed liner is already hard as hell. Not going to change that. Idling and heat cycling causes more harm than good. Unless your engine is fitted real loose like some Japanese manufacturers, then it doesnít matter what you do. The box will have broken that baby in en route to your favorite hobby shop.
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Old 04-04-2019, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2 View Post
People need to understand - heat cycling does VERY LITTLE if ANYTHING for ABC Engines. The piston doesnít get hot enough to get work hardened and the chromed liner is already hard as hell.
It is not about hardening because you need a fast cool down of the material to make it hard. But the material is changing. Start up a new engine with almost no pinch, run one tank and let it cool down compleetle and feel the pinch again, there will be more pinch, the piston has grown!
That proces will go on and on when setting the temperature higher and will stabalize when you have reached the operating temp.
I was told it has to do with floating copper molecules inside the piston, if you do it right the molecules will be more equaly spread out making a more tough piston.
When you drive continious on the track w/o a cool down of the engine you will notice moments the engine will revv up and then after a corner it wil run rich again. The cooling of the fuel you get when closing the throttle and open it again can give that effect of a growing piston.

I have tested many piston materials in many ways of break in and the only way to make this effect less is to pre-heat the pistons in an oven before assembling the engine. I believe some manufacturers do this.
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Old 04-04-2019, 05:07 AM
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With what Roelof has stated, and being that he has designed motors, that have been built, not to mention his documented testing I will close this thread. I believe the OP has the answer he needed.
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