Breaking in motor with no clutch bell installed?
Had blown some clutch bell bearings waiting on new ones.
Just got a new motor to break in, I’ve never ran a motor without a clutch bell on. Is it okay to crank the motor up, without the clutch bell and let it idle for a tank? Thanks, |
No. You shouldn’t idle a new engine for more than a few seconds. Idling a whole tank is bad karma. Just wait until you can set the engine up properly and run it in properly.
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2
(Post 15424849)
No. You shouldn’t idle a new engine for more than a few seconds. Idling a whole tank is bad karma. Just wait until you can set the engine up properly and run it in properly.
Gotcha. Is the break in process different from off road? Id normally let idle for 1 tank then start running it in on my 8th scale off road buggies. Keeping temps around 200 degrees. Thanks, |
I’m confused... if you don’t idle fuel through engine how do you run it in? Only alternative is WOT doing a four stroke cycles using the Josh Cyrul methods. Assuming we aren’t talking about EBIS that is... |
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
(Post 15424868)
I’m confused... if you don’t idle fuel through engine how do you run it in? Only alternative is WOT doing a four stroke cycles using the Josh Cyrul methods. Assuming we aren’t talking about EBIS that is... Might have used wrong terminology. Ive always let the first tank run at idle keeping engine temps around 200 degree. After that I’d run about 5 tanks at different RPM ranges, then start tuning. My original question was. Is it okay to run a tank at idle without the clutch bell on using a centax clutch? Im not trying to discuss break in methods. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by jkurz211
(Post 15424874)
Might have used wrong terminology. Ive always let the first tank run at idle keeping engine temps around 200 degree. After that I’d run about 5 tanks at different RPM ranges, then start tuning. My original question was. Is it okay to run a tank at idle without the clutch bell on using a centax clutch? Im not trying to discuss break in methods. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
(Post 15424868)
I’m confused... if you don’t idle fuel through engine how do you run it in? Only alternative is WOT doing a four stroke cycles using the Josh Cyrul methods. Assuming we aren’t talking about EBIS that is... |
There is a lot written about yes or no idle with the first tanks. I always did and it is adviseable. The slow movement of the piston will do less harm to the fragile surface of the piston. Yes the engine may be cooler althoug it is not that much but be aware the piston will also stay cooler and so smaller.
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Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 15424998)
There is a lot written about yes or no idle with the first tanks. I always did and it is adviseable. The slow movement of the piston will do less harm to the fragile surface of the piston. Yes the engine may be cooler althoug it is not that much but be aware the piston will also stay cooler and so smaller.
The fact is not every part of the engine will be at full operating temperature if it’s not run the way it will be run in service. But hey... don’t take my word for it. |
Originally Posted by SlowLST2
(Post 15424937)
You don’t ever want to idle an ABC engine - especially when new. You preheat it, start it, and drive it slightly rich with an oily fuel. That’s the way the metallurgy needs to be treated. This heat cycling and 4-stroke Bovine Scatology -is just that. BS. There is so much utter hokum in the RC car community that nobody knows how the metallurgy even works! Understand how the metallurgy works and then treat the engines accordingly. Read here: AdriansModelAeroEngines.com :: ABC Model Engine Break-in
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
(Post 15425465)
Preheat yes... Run-in is about heat cycle and bedding in. Running it too cool during run-in does nothing but prematurely wear out your engine.
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2
(Post 15425698)
People need to understand - heat cycling does VERY LITTLE if ANYTHING for ABC Engines. The piston doesn’t get hot enough to get work hardened and the chromed liner is already hard as hell.
That proces will go on and on when setting the temperature higher and will stabalize when you have reached the operating temp. I was told it has to do with floating copper molecules inside the piston, if you do it right the molecules will be more equaly spread out making a more tough piston. When you drive continious on the track w/o a cool down of the engine you will notice moments the engine will revv up and then after a corner it wil run rich again. The cooling of the fuel you get when closing the throttle and open it again can give that effect of a growing piston. I have tested many piston materials in many ways of break in and the only way to make this effect less is to pre-heat the pistons in an oven before assembling the engine. I believe some manufacturers do this. |
With what Roelof has stated, and being that he has designed motors, that have been built, not to mention his documented testing I will close this thread. I believe the OP has the answer he needed.
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