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Working an a new engine head

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Working an a new engine head

Old 04-03-2019, 02:38 AM
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Let me ask u in the case of an 8th scale were the motor is exposed and not inside the body, wouldn't the best cooling be if there was no head and the air was to flow directly over the button head? forget about protecting the glow plug and this or that I am just talking theory right now.; I mean you really don't need a head and fins to dissipate heat in an exposed environment like 8th just wondering.

Your head looks great also!!

And one more ? what about making the button head and the fins as one piece?
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Old 04-03-2019, 03:33 AM
  #17  
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Well some surface and volume is needed to pick up the heat and transfer it to the air.
Yes with current high mounted bodies there is less airflow over the buttonhead and glowplug so the fins are important.We have experimented with the thickness of the trunk holding the fins and how thicker it is the more heat comes out of the engine noticed by the noticeable higher pinch of the piston due a colder sleeve.

My head with the vertical slots makes it more easy to give the glowplug more airflow because normal heads with the horizontal fins will keep the airflow more in a horizontal line.

The buttonheat with cooling head in one piece is easy with normal plugs, Making it for the use with turbo plugs requires special tooling but not impossile. But the 2 piece head/button construction makes a small heat resistance between the head and the button, that will create a more stable temperature on the button and so on the sleeve. I think that is better for a more stable running engine.
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Old 04-03-2019, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
Well some surface and volume is needed to pick up the heat and transfer it to the air.
Yes with current high mounted bodies there is less airflow over the buttonhead and glowplug so the fins are important.We have experimented with the thickness of the trunk holding the fins and how thicker it is the more heat comes out of the engine noticed by the noticeable higher pinch of the piston due a colder sleeve.

My head with the vertical slots makes it more easy to give the glowplug more airflow because normal heads with the horizontal fins will keep the airflow more in a horizontal line.

The buttonheat with cooling head in one piece is easy with normal plugs, Making it for the use with turbo plugs requires special tooling but not impossile. But the 2 piece head/button construction makes a small heat resistance between the head and the button, that will create a more stable temperature on the button and so on the sleeve. I think that is better for a more stable running engine.
its always a pleasure watching u make anything!!
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
Do not forget the low head of the OSMAX buggy which is also used by some onroad drivers and ther is a German brand with Novarossi engines who has a low head with standup fins for their .12 engine

My friend did render some other stuf based on my head



so if you try this style next, please tell me you plan to have an entire R2-D2 paint scheme planned!! That head just reminda me of it 😄😄😄
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Old 04-12-2019, 02:00 PM
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And anodized




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Old 04-12-2019, 03:20 PM
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Very nice concept......
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Old 04-12-2019, 03:29 PM
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Excellent
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:32 PM
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Roelof, how is the head working out?
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Old 04-13-2019, 11:36 PM
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All my engines are predictable to run +/- 135 to 140 degrees (on my IR meter) as one did yesterday.during practise at the 1st race for the Belgium championship.Unlucky something went wrong and I had to instal a new engine which was prepaired with this head. The engine was fresh from the oil bath break in and had stil a high pinch. After 4 tanks we were running on full race performance and the engine did not come above 120 degrees.
My pitguy is a person who knows all about materials and how to work with them. The 2000 series aluminum are the best heat transfers of them all but he also thinks that the direct contact of all the fins with the head base and the wide slot for the glowplug are responsable for the better cooling.

Production wise it is a disaster, performance wise it seems to work
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Old 12-08-2019, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
For those who have not seen it yet on Facebook....

For a time I wanted to make a cooling head which looks different than all is used. I loved the old Mega P5 head and was thinking of such. After some thinking I came to this:



A friend made a 3D CAD drawing.



It looked that good I wanted to make it and bought some cheap long 4mm mill bits from Aliexroess



First on the lathe the base of the head.



Then the mounting holes



I needed to mount a 2nd ruler on my mill to hold on the right movement, so far the start of the 1st slot.



A few slots ahead the shape became vey visable



Not bad for a 1st try







Meanwhile with a file I made some edges and surfaces much better looking and now it is time to polish it and give it a color. I want to have it red but some say it must be black.

This is a CAD drawing with the red color.



I want to try a 2nd one but then the slots must be done on a CNC mill for a better result.
Very nice work... I would do the fins not so linear to the airflow... Maybe a lidlebit like the old Super Tigre X21 with blue head.
But this is a cool idea.
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Old 12-08-2019, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Giant655 View Post
so if you try this style next, please tell me you plan to have an entire R2-D2 paint scheme planned!! That head just reminda me of it 😄😄😄
Have you a step data from the silver head... Would like to try doing some on our machines
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:28 AM
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I have no cnc, just by hand controled machines....

Never did mention it, but here the anodized result.

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Old 12-08-2019, 07:15 AM
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nice!!!
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Old 12-08-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
All my engines are predictable to run +/- 135 to 140 degrees (on my IR meter) as one did yesterday.during practise at the 1st race for the Belgium championship.Unlucky something went wrong and I had to instal a new engine which was prepaired with this head. The engine was fresh from the oil bath break in and had stil a high pinch. After 4 tanks we were running on full race performance and the engine did not come above 120 degrees.
My pitguy is a person who knows all about materials and how to work with them. The 2000 series aluminum are the best heat transfers of them all but he also thinks that the direct contact of all the fins with the head base and the wide slot for the glowplug are responsable for the better cooling.

Production wise it is a disaster, performance wise it seems to work
I would question statement that 2000 series alloys has the best heat transfer rate. For sure 6061 much easier to machine.
For heat transfer most important is cooling area-thats what counts.
But, do not take my words as granted, prove your point to yourself.
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Old 12-09-2019, 03:34 AM
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After How many post could I upload a photo ??? I did a drawing which I wanted to share with you :-(
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