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Old 01-22-2012, 03:02 PM   #1
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Default Can someone help me?

Hello everyone, I am kind of new to the rc world. In case you havent read my thread in the rookie section I have a Savage 21 with a peak diablo .28. I have been working on this thing since after x-mas. I have put enough money in this thing in the last month to almost buy a brand new rtr savage. When i got it a few years ago from a customer at the stereo shop i was working at, it was missing a few parts. I let sit in my office at home collecting dust untill last month when i decided i was going to try to get it working. First I bought some batteries for the rx/tx to see if they still work & they do but it seems a little glitchy & will need to be replaced sometime.

Ok sp x-mas comes & i get alittle money from the in-laws. Just enough to get what parts I think i need to get it going. I'm kind of impatient so I dont order parts online which would have saved me some money but i dont want to wait on shipping so I headed down to ok hobbies & rc, hobby town 7 competition rc for what I'm looking for. So i pick up a header, tuned pipe, intake filter kit, roto start starter shaft, spur gears, rear driveshaft dog bone, fuel, after run oil, glow plugs which i had to exchange because I have a turbo head button, glow plug igniter & charger, fuel filter, spare cvd dog bones & rubber exhaust coupler. I get everything put together & installed, charge my igniter batt & proceed to try to start the truck using my 24volt cordless drill like i have seen on videos. Now let me tell you that this is my first nitro rc & I have no idea what i am doing. So I go through a tank of nitro trying to start this thing & nothing. I start doing some research on what the problem might be & i see a recomendation to seal the motor up & watch a how to video on the subject. I also need to mention that i did tear down the motor to clean it out from sitting when I tested the rx/tx & it did have some dust & hair in the combustion chamber but was easy to clean up. Cylinder wall looked good, no scratches or grooves & the rotating assembly seemed to move freely. I tore the motor & carb (3 needle) down again to thoroughly clean them before sealing. Ok seal job is done & i lubed everything up with after run oil as recomended lubeing the crank & push rod before sealing the back plate.

Next day I reinstall the motor back in the truck & continue to try & start it. Well i wore out the owb. At least it has an external type. I do some research on the owb because i had no idea at the time what it was or the part number. I get the info i need & call ok hobbies to see if they have the part & luckily they do. I get home & install the new owb. I didnt know how much trouble i was going to have getting the motor to fire up & it is kind of a pain in the butt to keep pulling the motor out, so i decuded to make an engine stand so i can do my testing out of the truck. Out with the drill again I start trying to start it, nothing. I start thinking maybe my drill isn't spinning fast enough so I remove the roto start plate & look for a socket that fits the owb (12mm). Using adapters I attach the 12 mm socket to my drill & pull the trigger & it spins faster but motor still doesnt fire up. I put some nitro in the carb & try again & it starts & runs for a few seconds then dies. Sweet it starts, Im happy about that. I blow throught the tube that hooks up to the tuned pipe like I have seen my friend do on his truck to prime it & proceed to try & start it again. Drill is going, motor is spinning & i hear a "TING". The drill is still spinning But the motor isn't turning over. Cracked the housing on the owb carrier& the owb is now stuck in the socket & i cant get it out. Next day i go get another owb. Those things are expensive at $18 a piece & it wasnt the last one I bought either. Get home, grab my medium well 12mm socket which now i know was a big mistake because using the medium well allowed the bearing to slide down the shaft into the socket damaging the end of the starter shaft end also causing me to wear out about 3 more owb's & I cracked yet another housing. But within those other 3 owb's which i bought all the ones that ok hobbies & hobby town had I was able to get the motor to run for longer times. Turns out in the research i was doing, all info i found was talking about 2 needle carbs & the lsn I was adjusting was actually the spray nozle adjustment/msn & the lsn was wide open causing constant flooding. In the mean time I also bought a pull start to make things easier on me untill it rubbed in between my fingers raw on both hands. Then I went out & bought a new roto start 2, 7.2volt batt & a quick charger. At this point I have already spent over $400 & almost a month messing with this thing.

So now I sit with no good starter shaft or any owb's but I have a friend who works in a mackine shop who is going to make me a new starter shaft out of hardened steel & i also found a website that carries the hf0612 bearings Used in the owb's for about $6 a piece, i ordered 4 & they came in yesterday. I also have 2 bearing carriers that didnt crack so my friend can press in 2 of the bearings. With any luck he will get my new starter shaft made tomorrow & i can put the motor back together tomorrow night.

Now I know that the motor is a piece of junk from all the info i have been reading & from what others are telling me about it. Its a Peak Diablo .28 which is basicly the same thing as the Team Orion Wasp .28 & the Fantom Fr27. But it does start & run & i dont have the funds to buy another motor so im just trying to work with what I have untill i can come up with the money for a new/er motor. So I'm wondering if there is anyone local here on the NW side of OKC that can come over or i can go to to help me to tune this thing to stay running so i will stop spending money on it? Any help I can get will be very appreciated. I have had this thing for so long & would finally like to bash it. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:41 PM   #2
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Well since noone has replied to this thread I bought me a new motor but I still want to mess with the old turd to see what i can do. My new motor is working great but I broke a diff cup & she is a 2wd untill i can get new cups. It's still a blast to play with only being rwd.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:09 PM   #3
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Oklahoma Nitro Club has a group on facebook. You might get a better response on there to nitro related questions. I am an electric racer with limited nitro experience, so I will not be much help myself. I believe the 11th is a test and tune day at the club track in Taylor Park in Yukon. There may be some guys that can give you some nitro advice there that day, weather permitting.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:10 PM   #4
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They dont allow 1:8 tires tho.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:13 PM   #5
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What do you mean they don't allow 8th tires? There are a few different classes of nitro 8th scale buggy and truggy. As well as electric 8th scale buggy and truggy. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you meant.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:47 PM   #6
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I read on their site that they dont allow 1/8 tires.

http://www.oklahomanitroclub.com/RaceDaySchedule.htm

Unless I'm misunderstanding & they mean no 1/8 wheels on 1/10 trucks.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:06 PM   #7
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"1/10 Scale Short-Course Super Stock 13.5 Brushless or equivilant motor limit Any short-course body/tire/wheel-(NO 1/8 scale wheels) Any 7.4v Hardcase 2s Lipo Or 6 cell NIMH"

This is a rule for the 2wd stock class. You must run shortcourse rims and tires.

For the test and tune day on the 11th it does not matter. There will not be official racing. It is just a open practice day, and might be a good opportunity to get some help with your engine.
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:13 PM   #8
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I might check it out if I have the money. I just ordered me a Savage XL today.
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:12 PM   #9
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Does anyone carry any Mugen products in the city by chance??
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:20 PM   #10
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Not that I know of. What are you looking for? I know a few guys that have them and I can post on the facebook group and see if anyone can help you.
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:27 PM   #11
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My XL is in town & should be delivered in a few more hours. I'm so excited!!!!!!!!! Are they still having test & tune @ taylor park tomorrow? I might bring both my trucks out if they are, if I can get my steering servo fixed on my 21 by then.
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:44 PM   #12
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The test and tune is cancelled due to the rain at the cold temps. It has been rescheduled for the following weekend, weather permitting. The club prez has asked that people not use the track since it is probalby muddy and would tear up the work they did earlier this week. I will paste the announcement on the other thread if it has not already been posted.
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Not that I know of. What are you looking for? I know a few guys that have them and I can post on the facebook group and see if anyone can help you.
That would be great man...I'm not on Facebook (yea im the 1%) so it will be hard to get in contact with the other guys that may know of where if any I can order a truggy from. Let me know if you find anything out!
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