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Old 10-09-2017, 06:12 PM
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Default How much power do glow plugs need?

Strange question but I'm playing with my old Hyper 7 again and I'm puzzled by the amount of power the turbo glow plugs are sucking out if my glow starter. I have 2 basic warmers, a old LRP and a newer Turnigy AA. I put a new Duracell battery in the warmer today, and after a few minutes of trying to start and tune the buggy the battery was flat. Stick a new battery in it and a similiar result..
Is this normal? I used to use a old 1.5v Kickstarter battery that lasted for years.
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:21 AM
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At 1.2-1.5v, most glow plugs pull 3 amps to glow properly; some cooler plugs will tolerate higher voltage - up to 2v. Nickel based rechargeables can discharge more current at once compared to alkaline disposables. The best route is a regulated LIPO glow driver. These deliver the current and rarely need to be recharged.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:54 AM
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I have a rechargeable glow starter that uses a Sub-C cell. I put a Tenergy 5,000mah in it. It has never let me down and I charge it once in a blue moon just because I'm thinking about it.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2
At 1.2-1.5v, most glow plugs pull 3 amps to glow properly; some cooler plugs will tolerate higher voltage - up to 2v. Nickel based rechargeables can discharge more current at once compared to alkaline disposables. The best route is a regulated LIPO glow driver. These deliver the current and rarely need to be recharged.
I love my dynamite lipo glow driver. Only have to charge it once a month it lasts that long!
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:14 PM
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Thanks for the replies, think I'll invest in a rechargeable warmer.
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Old 10-16-2017, 08:57 PM
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Two things come to mind based on your comments. I've used hundreds of different glow igniters, and if you have the choice, I highly recommend the following. I don't work for them, I don't sell their stuff, and I've paid for every one that I've ever owned. It's simply the best igniter I've used. It's a quick twist fastener so it locks on and comes off the plug easily, but it's a solid connection. I prefer the igniter with the meter so you can see the condition of the battery, but it was more useful to me to know if the plug was dead, or if the connection was bad. The battery is soldered directly to the stem that attaches to the glowplug. It's not held with a set-screw (which usually lets you down at a critical moment) or one with a threaded housing. I've seen enough of the threaded ones split to not want to use them either. I see your in Australia (If I'm not mistaken) so perhaps my recommendation would be too difficult, but if you can't get this one, look for an igniter with similar features. BTW, plugs are made for 3V input. So a double cell igniter can also work, but is not necessary.

http://www.sonictronics.com/xcart/pr...cat=430&page=1

I think you already identified that the tune needs a little work. When you have it right, the engine should fire in a pull or two and relieve you from having to connect the igniter for long periods of time. Have a friend pinch the fuel line while you're attempting to start the engine. If it starts easier, it's a sign that the low speed mixture is too rich. If it doesn't fire and the plug and igniter are definitely good, then perhaps it's too lean.
As a last bit of advice, be sure that the engine isn't too worn. If there's no compression left, then they tend to be difficult to start.
Sorry to load you up with a long reply, but I'm happy to help if you want it.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveP
Two things come to mind based on your comments. I've used hundreds of different glow igniters, and if you have the choice, I highly recommend the following. I don't work for them, I don't sell their stuff, and I've paid for every one that I've ever owned. It's simply the best igniter I've used. It's a quick twist fastener so it locks on and comes off the plug easily, but it's a solid connection. I prefer the igniter with the meter so you can see the condition of the battery, but it was more useful to me to know if the plug was dead, or if the connection was bad. The battery is soldered directly to the stem that attaches to the glowplug. It's not held with a set-screw (which usually lets you down at a critical moment) or one with a threaded housing. I've seen enough of the threaded ones split to not want to use them either. I see your in Australia (If I'm not mistaken) so perhaps my recommendation would be too difficult, but if you can't get this one, look for an igniter with similar features. BTW, plugs are made for 3V input. So a double cell igniter can also work, but is not necessary.



I think you already identified that the tune needs a little work. When you have it right, the engine should fire in a pull or two and relieve you from having to connect the igniter for long periods of time. Have a friend pinch the fuel line while you're attempting to start the engine. If it starts easier, it's a sign that the low speed mixture is too rich. If it doesn't fire and the plug and igniter are definitely good, then perhaps it's too lean.
As a last bit of advice, be sure that the engine isn't too worn. If there's no compression left, then they tend to be difficult to start.
Sorry to load you up with a long reply, but I'm happy to help if you want it.
I've used that exact same glow-starter back when they first came out, and have never, ever had a problem with it. However, after being out of the hobby for quite some time (last r/c i raced was the Losi NXT), I see that they now have regulated LiPo igniters that would seem the better choice. In my opinion, of course
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