engine dies when throttle applied gradually
 

a gist of what happened earlier before the engine dying problem
started my rc and it sounded too rich.. slow and low acceleration when wot..
then after a few mins, it became extremely fast.. faster than the leanest i could go without hints of the engine lacking fuel compared to previously..
so i was really happy.. temp of 80 celcius at the glow plug..
it wasnt anywhere near lean.. you know its lean when you let go of the throttle, the 'ping ping ping ping' sounds will be heard..
i was so happy i forgot about the fuel and it ran dry.. so i let it cool and had a break myself.. after 30mins i filled it up and got it running again.. but now when i throttle it, it dies on me.. but if i lift up the car and throttle, it can reach the high rpms.. on the ground, it wont go anywhere near 1/4 of peak rpm..
help

When it has runned dry you probably have to change the glowplug.

i have replaced it

It's hard to diagnose this stuff on the internet, but i would try richening up the top and botton a couple of hours. You may have over tuned when your engine was hot and upon re-fire when cold it couldn't handle that tune.

meaning let it idle for a couple of hours?

St rr evo meant richen your hi and low speed needles a bit. If you think of the face of a clock having 12 hours, backing off 1 hour is turning the low or hi speed needle counterclockwise by 1/12 of a turn. Backing off 2 hours means ccw by 2/12 of a turn. Leaning 2 hours is turning needles clockwise by 2/12 of a turn, etc

alright i get it now..
i followed the factory tuning setup and the same thing happens..
i have replaced the exhaust port rubber ring with a new one.. but it wiggles a tad bit.. will it be the reason why this is happening?

I agree with st rr in that you're probably lean somewhere and that it's difficult to troubleshoot over the internet. Whenever I get lost in my settings, I revert back to factory needle settings, use fresh fuel, check/replace plug, and check for air leaks (for example cracks in rubber hose lines, gaskets for carb, o rings for needles, crack in fuel tank, etc). I can't imagine the wobbly exhaust gasket being the cause since it's on the exit side but I could be wrong. The main thing when tuning the engine needles is to make small changes at a time else you end up chasing the tune which is what I think may have happened to you. Good luck.

If re-tuning the engine doesn't solve your problem then you should change your loose fitting gasket. Actually even if the re-tune does solve your problem you should change your gaskets... and springs. Make sure you get the right style of gasket for your engine. Picco based engines use a different gasket than everyone else as far as i know. They don't have an internal rib like the others. Also, some gaskets are garbage. For Picco based engines i like Picco and Reds gaskets. For the other style gaskets, I like Protek high temp gaskets or Novarossi. Yes they cost more, but are better. Seal better. Last longer. Protek springs are just fine too.

if not a leak somewhere, fuel line, gaskets, etc. Then it is to lean on the bottom end...also, how many gallons are on it? If it is loosing compression, it will act like that also

How's the clutch??
And how many gallons??

the clutch is fine..
1 galon..
update
i removed the exhaust and it runs better.. it only stalls when i full throttle from standstill..
and if i put the exhaust back on, the same shit happens again.. so im guessing its pushing too much fuel into the engine whith the exhaust nipple

Or not enough fuel. Richen up the top 2 hrs and see what it does. If it's worse then lean the HSN.