where for $400? :sneaky:

any pics of the MRT?
 

Hi there

tot of getting one MRT too :D

any feedback on the engine? or pics?

heard that the whole engine is almost black?

Anyone?

I've worn out a piston and sleeve and kept the rod for the replacement p/s. It all depends on the play in the bushing...any play, replace it. It should be snug.

The 02 rods (come with R01A) last even longer.

Sohlman.... What's good dawg? Ready 4 301?

I will be. Got a few Ninjas that need breaking-in and I'll be set. :nod: My R is good.

I'm on my 3rd gallon with the same rod.

break in
 

any break in tips besides whats of the cd?

I ran 2 tanks idle, and then 10 tanks on the track simply blipping the throttle on and off, and on the 11th tank I started leaning the top out 1.5 to 2 hours per tank.

Mark

so the carb came set to a starting point? or are there adjustments to be made prior to starting.

If you guy's want a little trick for the Ninja here you go:

Get two reamers (5.0010mm and 4.1810mm) and a few NovaRossi R5/R7 rods:

NovaRossi Crank pin= 4.9950mm
NovaRossi rod bottom= 4.9975mm
clearance= 0.0025mm
NovaRossi wrist pin= 4.0000mm
NovaRossi rod top= 4.0025mm
clearance= 0.0025mm

Ninja crank pin= 5.0000mm
Bottom of rod= 5.0150mm
clearance = 0.015mm
Ninja pin= 4.1800mm
Ninja rod top= 4.2000mm
clearance= 0.02mm

Ream the R5/R7 rods by hand since the top and botom ends are smaller bores and you are all set.

The R5/R7 rods are 0.01mm wider on the bottom and 0.01mm narrower on the top which will not affect anything since the bottom of the Nova rod does not go past the end of the Ninja crank pin and will not hit the backplate.

The clearance numbers don't look that different till you notice they are a decimal place more on the Ninja (10x more). Use the two above reamers by hand and you will have a more perfectly clearanced rod for the Ninja that is bushed on both ends.

I used four sets of precision Deltronics sizing bars (they come in 0.0005mm increments) and checked two Ninjas and two 321P's.... clearance numbers were the same for each brand. Hand reaming will result in a slightly larger hole than the reamer size you select.... that is why smaller reamers than you would expect were selected for the reaming process.

Where were you able to purchase individual reamers in those sizes?

At work ;) , but just google reamers in your area, or look in the yellow pages and you will find someone that will grind any size you want. That's what I did for my Jaco rims.... they fit my Mugen axles too tight so I had a reamer made to 0.4735" to slightly enlarge the rim's axle bore.

The 4.1800mm reamer will probably just be a re-sharpened 4.2000mm. The 5.0010mm will probably be a 5.0025mm re-sharpened reamer..... that's how they re-size them sometimes- just re-sharpening them takes off a touch of material. They normally come in 0.0025mm increments.

the new Tuned versons are out check Nitrohouse for prices

cdelong- That sounds like an interesting idea for reaming a different rod for the Ninja motor, but I don't quite follow your numbers for each rod, I cannot believe the clearances are what you state they are , especially for the Novarossi rod, .0025mm is .000098 inch, that is a VERY tight fit, I was always under the impression that most rods had about .001 to .002 inch clearance, epsecially the big end, that tight of tolerance would be almost impossible to achieve, way more hand fitting, precision reaming and checking, etc. that these motors go thru at the factory. I am not doubting the accuracy of your Deltronic pins, but maybe the accuracy of the measuring of the crank pin and the upper pin, something doesn't sound right to me to come up with these numbers.... even the sloppiest of tolerances you mentioned there is still only .00078 inches, please help me to understand more....Like I said above, I LOVE the idea of hand fitting a "better" rod to one of these motors, I just don't follow the math.....

I'll speak by PM, but not here. YGPM.

http://www.nitrokb.com/phpBB2/images..._surprised.gif Expensive! MR12-T01T is $220 more than the stock version!! http://www.nitrokb.com/phpBB2/images...ub_shocked.gif

http://www.nitrohouse.com/images/ofn...5/mr12t01t.jpg

does that say...M a g n e s i u m ?? :sneaky: :nod: :tire:

wow... sure does say magnesium!

maybe the team guys can stop running the ninja heads on there JP motors now there is a tuned version, or at least that is the rumor circulating that i heard :sneaky:

well $550 for the .21 BO1T is up there with the O.S. SPEED
http://www.nitrohouse.com/images/ofn...5/mr21b01t.jpg

hey guys, am proud to say that just days ago i bought my first pro end motor and went with the mr.12 t01, to bolt in my mtx4-r :sneaky: :D :tire:

engine looks great and i cant wait to fire it up. But im not sure as to how to run it in, any one got suggestions? and also does conrod need to be changed after break in?

cheers ;)

if you look back a few pages costly, mike swauger posted how he runs his ninjas in this might help you ;)

The "Engine FAQ" section of the .12 Engine KB has a summary of Mike S' break-in notes for the MR12-T01

this is the page http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&page=14&pp=40was more then a few back.... or just check nitrokb :D

I went to the Ninja Engine Web site and found absolutely zero info on the tuned versions. Anybody know where I can find some details? And could someone clue me in on the significance of magnesium?

Also, on the MR12-T01A, the Ninja Web site reads:

Is this a good thing or a bad thing when going up against IFMAR/ROAR legal engines?

i don't own a bench
 

i don't own a bench break in setup. what is the proceedure, for breaking in the motor in the car? just use the cd?

Last year it wasn't, but this year EFRA changed there rules regarding engine specifications, they are now the same as IFMAR....

thanks for all your help guys

cheers remo ;) ;) ;) ;)

Ninja MR 12 T01A conrod
 

Hello,
I would like to share my finding on the conrod of the engine and have your feedback. When I opened the engine just after the break in to clean it, I noticed a play between the conrod and the piston pin. I assumed that I shouldn't change it since it had only about 1 liter of fuel.
Then during the first race, the engine performed very well. Thanks to my mechanic the engine was working to 105C and it could stay on idle for more than 5 minutes and after that to respond perfectly to full throtle without flaming out.
The performance was equal to all other mod engines in the track or I did not feel the need for more power.
After the race when I opened it again I noticed the same play in the conrod and the pin.
There is no bushing there. I slightly heated it up with the heat gun and when it reached approx 70C the play started dissapearing.
What is your experiences/opinions on that.

Since the engine performed perfectly on the track and the temperature was about 105C, I would like also your opinion for the following:
I used 1 teeth smaller both pinion gears and 1 teeth larger both spurs from the default. I suppose that this is the shortest available gearing for the MTX4. While the other team mateswith the MTX4s using other engines, i.e. JP FX03M used the default pinions and only 1 teeth larger both spurs.
My centax spring was also much tighter than the rest. I was about 1.6 and the other about 1.0. However, the whole package worked perfectly and no signs of wear in the shoe or anywhere else. Any comment?
Thanks in advance

Good morning gentlemen (ladies if you frequent here as well).

I have just found this thread this morning related to my recently purchased Ninja MR21B01A engine. I am also the owner of a X1-CRT truggy and would like to know if there is a seperate thread related to this new engine or if someone would be so kind as to link me to it. I have read the ninja-engine site but I wanted something a little less *clouded* by marketing hype. Any/all help is greatly appreciated.

since the new mario rossi tuned came out is the old version still gonna be available? the new mario rossi tuned really expense though.. $649 for the RO1..

The R01A is still available and will continue to be.

We have them cheaper than that at www.rcthunderhobbies.net 347.202.7247 call and ask 4 Dean or Danny.

We have .12's and 21's in stock.

I just spoke with Daniel at the shop and he says he can have his distributor get him the .28s as needed. EXCELLENT news indeed. :) I look forward to meeting you at the Tri-State tomorrow Dean as I'm the site administrator for the track we're racing at. ;)

Cool, Danny and Dean r really cool guys. I'm glad 2 b of some help.

tnx for the info pooh2..

I busted my brand new pipe today, but right before I finnaly got the tune of my Ninja .12 just right( doenst have a gallon on it yet), and DAMN!!!. It scare the my pants off! I was also having problems with the steering not centering, so I coulnt really push, but on the straight the thing just lights up.

Mow I just gotta finish break in on the .21. :sneaky:

I picked up my CRT Pro today and dropped in the Ninja MR21B01A w/ JP-1 and I'm telling you brother this thing SCREAMS. You'll love it. :)

New revision of the engines? - Serie 02 - Rev. A
 

This morning I was on the ninja website and noticed this...

http://www.ninja-engine.com/content/...ng=0&serie02=1

Anyone has a grasp on how changes are those Serie 02 Rev. A to the 'non Series 02 Rev. A'?

At first look, seems that nothing changed, so the changes should be more subtle.