O.S. SPEED .21 XZ-B SPEC. III
#107
Tech Lord
iTrader: (148)
I have ran many OS engines with several different pipes.
The 2090 will defiantly allow more top end
The 2060 is more of a bottom end pipe that chops the top off a little.
Now both of these are very header dependent. But if you use the same OS 70mm header on both pipes that's what I have felt.
This is all on the track of course.
But bolt them up and see for yourself.
The 2090 will defiantly allow more top end
The 2060 is more of a bottom end pipe that chops the top off a little.
Now both of these are very header dependent. But if you use the same OS 70mm header on both pipes that's what I have felt.
This is all on the track of course.
But bolt them up and see for yourself.
#108
Tech Adept
Anyone that trys this give feedback plz, as well what meathod of break in?
#109
Tech Lord
iTrader: (148)
Heat cycle method
1. Heat engine to 220+ idle 10 mins
2. Let cool usually about an hour
3. Repeat 1&2 3-5x
4. Heat to 220+ and bump idle up to about 1/4 throttle. Let the rest of 1qt run through the engine on a hudy break in bench keeping the temp 200+ (heater and adjust hsn/ lsn) (Usually takes about 2 hrs)
5. Run another qt through in the car on the street with the head wrapped very rich keeping the temp 220+ continuously. (Takes about 1 hr)
6. Take to the track and tune to kill. Usually there's stil metal pinch so the idle needs to be a little higher than normal until that metal pinch is gone.
1. Heat engine to 220+ idle 10 mins
2. Let cool usually about an hour
3. Repeat 1&2 3-5x
4. Heat to 220+ and bump idle up to about 1/4 throttle. Let the rest of 1qt run through the engine on a hudy break in bench keeping the temp 200+ (heater and adjust hsn/ lsn) (Usually takes about 2 hrs)
5. Run another qt through in the car on the street with the head wrapped very rich keeping the temp 220+ continuously. (Takes about 1 hr)
6. Take to the track and tune to kill. Usually there's stil metal pinch so the idle needs to be a little higher than normal until that metal pinch is gone.
#110
Heat cycle method
1. Heat engine to 220+ idle 10 mins
2. Let cool usually about an hour
3. Repeat 1&2 3-5x
4. Heat to 220+ and bump idle up to about 1/4 throttle. Let the rest of 1qt run through the engine on a hudy break in bench keeping the temp 200+ (heater and adjust hsn/ lsn) (Usually takes about 2 hrs)
5. Run another qt through in the car on the street with the head wrapped very rich keeping the temp 220+ continuously. (Takes about 1 hr)
6. Take to the track and tune to kill. Usually there's stil metal pinch so the idle needs to be a little higher than normal until that metal pinch is gone.
1. Heat engine to 220+ idle 10 mins
2. Let cool usually about an hour
3. Repeat 1&2 3-5x
4. Heat to 220+ and bump idle up to about 1/4 throttle. Let the rest of 1qt run through the engine on a hudy break in bench keeping the temp 200+ (heater and adjust hsn/ lsn) (Usually takes about 2 hrs)
5. Run another qt through in the car on the street with the head wrapped very rich keeping the temp 220+ continuously. (Takes about 1 hr)
6. Take to the track and tune to kill. Usually there's stil metal pinch so the idle needs to be a little higher than normal until that metal pinch is gone.
#111
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Very impressed with this engine, I ran JBRL this weekend and engine performed flawlessly (I wish I could say the same about me LOL ) also I ran the Drake engine on my buggy and that was also a very impressive performance.
I had the chance to speak with Atsushi Hara about the engine and he was very helpful answering questions about needles, temps and overall performance of this spec 3 engine....really nice humble guy
If you are looking at this Spec 3 you will be very satisfied with it.
thanks
Josh
I had the chance to speak with Atsushi Hara about the engine and he was very helpful answering questions about needles, temps and overall performance of this spec 3 engine....really nice humble guy
If you are looking at this Spec 3 you will be very satisfied with it.
thanks
Josh
#112
Tech Adept
os
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#113
Tech Adept
Os
well I wanted to post a Picture of mine but i couldn't figure it out its so nice much nicer than my current reds.
#114
Tech Adept
what did you ask him about it? or what did he tell you?
#115
#116
#117
Tech Adept
I havent ran the new os and wont for a few months the reds are great quality build wise, they can hold a good tune, break in is a bitch took over a gallon before it was ready and even now it runs cold around 195.
#120
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Hey guys, simple questions here! Been a ninja fan send run a bo2 as my main engine and a bo1a as my practice engine and love the power with a 2060 and bottom end threw top nothing compares to my reedy/ae 2035 which I've known for awhile is a very good non os pipe. However my question is about the spec 3, when the spec 2 is talked about people say it's a fire breather very non typical os speed feel. I like that power feel from the 2035 pipe so I know I like the sound of more power especially if it runs longer. My bo2 runs out with the 2060 and has a very controlled power band. I ran this on the Vegas world's track a week after they ran the mains and it was insane bumpy so I think the power of the b02 helped me but down the strait I needed it to run longer. I run 7 mm venturi. Will I be better off with a spec 2 or 3? I want thAt extra power down low but I gotta get something that still has that power for long straits. I'm even down to get a offbrand os engine like samurai if it has what I'm looking for. So far it sounds like the b2101 is a smooth engine, spec 2 is the most power os has ever put in (totally different then normal speed mo) and spec 3 I'm confused if it's more like spec 2 or even more power?